The Valley of Vinales

According to the itinerary listed for the Vinales hop on hop off bus, after a big loop, my destination is supposed to be the last stop – the La Ermita Hotel where I plan to stay awhile to enjoy the view. But no! It’s the first stop and I’m in time for my morning coffee.

As I got off the bus I was pleased about the blissful peace and quiet. I’m keen to enjoy the magnificent view in peace and solitude and sup a hot, strong coffee.

But this is Cuba and despite the fact that I am the alone in the outside dining space the music begins to blare out; this time it’s a CD. Still the coffee is very good; the view of the valley stretching out below me superb and the hotel looks nice. I had planned to stay here but was swayed by a casa particulares in the valley of Vinales.
When I arrived in Vinales I was a little grumpy (a 7 hour bus ride that turned into 9 didn’t help) but my mood was softened by my handsome, charming and generous casa host offering me a chilled glass of papaya juice and with an arc of his arms said “my casa is your casa; my deck is your deck" etc. I instantly felt embarrassed and humbled.

The casa’s here are close together and many offer accommodation to “turista’s” – probably about ¾ of the houses have signs out. I was excited to meet another kiwi chap staying in the casa next door - the first New Zealander I’ve met on this trip. He comes from Remuera but was in Cuba on vacation from his volunteer teaching work in Costa Rica.

I enjoyed many hours out on the small deck in the front of my casa whiling away the time chatting with the Italians who also stayed two nights and watching the light change over the hills in the distance.
On my first night, replete after a superb dinner, I retired and despite the drone from the air conditioning unit, slept soundly to be woken at 0500 by a rooster in full and glorious voice!

I love the life here; where kids play on the streets; where a woman takes half an hour to pick a few flowers from one bush; where people start and finish their days chatting and watching street activities from their rocking chairs. Twice, as I was out strolling locals invited me to sit in the empty rocking chair beside them. It’s really nice and it makes me realize how frenetic our lives have become.

I’m missing…..the ease of conversing in English. Oh and cappuccino…..its espresso for me.

I’m loving….the gluggy reddish guava paste my hosts serve up for breakfast with fresh bread. Yum…yum.

I’m happy….that I made the trip west to Vinales.

I’m reading….an intriguing novel “Norwegian Wood” by Japanese author Murakami. It’s heavy but exquisitely crafted. I selected it in Trinidad where I had just 8 books to choose from. It’s a find.

I’ve decided….to add Las Terrazas to my itinerary which is about two hours from here. Some tourists I met in Trinidad recommended it and so I’m booked to stay at The Hotel Moka - an eco-tourism resort built in 1992. It’s unique to Cuba and has been a great success providing work opportunities for a small very poor community. I’m keen to check it out and will write more about it later.

Photos:

blue car in the main street.

Horse and cart taken from "my" rocking chair on the deck of my casa particulares. Yes another rocking chair!

The man across the road lighting up. Unlike food, cigars aren't rationed I believe.

The valley of Vinales. Vinales is about four hours west of Habana.

Hola

Hola all
This is just a quick update as I leave the Valley of Vinales....a very pretty town. I am going to Las Terazzas for a few days which is an eco resort about two hours from here. Phew....not the seven hour trip from Trinidad which actually took 9 hours. I was a very tired traveller after that trip. From there Habana again. I will add an article and some more photos from my next stop if I can get access to the internet etc.
By the way...sorry about any errors in my writing....blame it on the heat....writing very quickly....and the keyboards!
Thanks very much for the comments you have left....I´m not sure why they aren´t showing but I appreciate them very much. I like to write but its even nicer when people let me know they are enjoying reading ábout my experiences. Cheers. J

The Train Trip

Hola everyone

Finally I´ve been able to load a couple of items!

Here are a couple of pix from the steam train trip into a valley a few hours away from here. The area has a rather gruesome history with a slave trader earning a fortune from his trading and sugar production. He built a watch tower.

The photos are all from the train trip. Imagine OSH allowing tourists to ride on the cab of a train!

Quaint, Cruisey Trinidad

I felt invigorated to be here, from the moment my air-conditioned bus bumped and maneuvered its way into town along the narrow quaint cobbled streets of Trinidad.

Once again I’ve chosen to stay at a casa and my hosts are wonderful. They speak little English. In fact I think the language imbalance is more in my favour than theirs so there’s lots of gesturing and smiles, and even more unsaid. There’s much I want to ask but the language barrier does not permit that. I had planned to be here three nights but instantly extended it to five and Bianca’s face lit up when I asked to stay longer. How nice!

The food is outstanding here too and they are keen to please, but don’t invade my privacy. Here are the contact details – Bianca Del Pino Sandoval, 112 Francisco Peterssen Phone (53) (01) (41) 992430. The family have lived in this home since 1850!

Ah….as I read all of the details on the card, it notes that there is hot and cold water 24 hours. Hmmm now I wonder why I’ve been having cold showers. Could it be that I didn’t turn on the tap marked “C” which in English stands for cold but here its caliente which means hot? Fria is cold. Or is it that I didn’t run the water for long enough? In Habana I was advised to run the tap for between 1 and 30 minutes to get the hot water through.

But I digress. My room is large, light, airy and is comfortable. It’s exceptionally charming in a rustic way. I have frilly shiny pink satin bedspreads topped with red satin heart shaped cushions. Its lovely to be here and the home is scrupulously clean and very central to everything here in Trinidad.

On my first night here I slept for 12 hours straight. In the early morning, in that delicious state, as I drifted in and out of sleep I was vaguely aware of alien sounds outside. It was a surreal experience. I heard roosters crowing, children calling cheerfully to one another, a man shouting “paper, paper” as he wandered down the street selling door to door, and the echo of horse’s hooves as they clip clopped down the ancient cobbled streets. Not for the first time whilst journeying, as I awakened to welcome a new day, I was ever so slightly disoriented by these unusual sounds.

Every house here it seems, and this one is no exception, has a number of rocking chairs, in their lounges, on decks and in the enclosed courtyards. They get a lot of use too. I know this because I can see through the houses to the courtyards out the back through the white (usually) wrought iron bars used so they can keep doors and windows open to any breeze yet have some security. Locals stand at the bars, or sit in their rocking chairs and watch the outside activity, or stop awhile for a neighbourly chat.

I whiled away many hours on “my” balcony in the wrought iron rocking chair. The balcony opens off my room via three sets of very tall double doors and is “the spot” for catching a breeze as it wafts by.

On my first outing, I happened across a nice café; Cafeteria Las Begonis which has long opening hours so it was good for my mid morning coffee (excellent) and also later in the day for a bottle of the very good local brew (Cristal) to cool down.

Horse and cart is by far the most prevalent form of transport here and, out on the street, it takes awhile to get used to the smell. Having said that, I’ve seen no dung, so its obviously cleaned up quickly. The locals are constantly cleaning street frontages and courtyards. Many horses are painfully thin and they stand patiently waiting for their owners to load up the cart with another consignment. There are bikes and some cars too but not in the same numbers.

I’ve was contented staying at that casa and enjoyed just wandering the streets and observing. This town, sandwiched between the Sierra del Escambray mountains and the Caribbean .....14 kms away.....is a special spot.

I’m loving…..different sights and sounds in this laid back town.

I’m enjoying….not wearing a watch.

Best coffee… EVERYWHERE. Except for Varadero the coffee’s been excellent.

I’m reading….a lighthearted read…… “Always the Bridesmaid” by Sarah Webb. It made me laugh and lives up to its dust cover blurb which states it’s an excellent book to take on holiday. After reading it I was able to trade the book with a local. ALWAYS a bonus when on the road and like to read.

Photos....All Trinidad and of course my rocker......

Cuba...oh the food.

The food….or I should say ooooh the food.

Whilst it’s true that no-one comes to Cuba for the food, the traveler has the expectation of being able to find food at meal times.

I must say that at the beginning at least, it was trial and error. Often the menu displayed at establishments looked rather promising, but it’s a show. Several times now I have been tempted into a place and ordered but the waiter shakes his head rather sadly and says “sorry, no that’s not possible”.

On my first evening here I was lulled into a false sense of security when I ordered fish and vegetables. It was my first choice and was absolutely divine. I rather rashly concluded things had improved since my friend Suzanne’s visit and her advice to take snacks; plenty of them. I’m glad I did.

In Habana (this is how the locals refer to their capital city so I will continue to use that spelling); I ended up having a sweet cake for breakfast, and that was certainly not my first choice. I’d been wandering for over two hours and was desperate; many more listed items were unavailable.

For another breakfast I ordered the least offending item on the menu; a toasted cheese and tomato sandwich. The bread was a very unappetizing yellow colour! Thank goodness for all the nuts I bought in the USA.

At one establishment (the waiter said it was a very good restaurant and it looked it) I ordered fish and vegetables which the waiter assured me was available. Soon I overheard the waiter on the phone asking for vegetables. Some time later, some beans arrived on a plate and presented to the waiter. I swear these exact same beans were incorporated into my sautéed veges. The fish – it was wedged between ham and cheese (!!!) and deep fried in bread crumbs. Now that’s a first. Yikes!

After writing this, in Varadero, I happened upon the Barracuda restaurant beside the beach where I ate red snapper, prepared simply. It was DIVINE. It’s also difficult to imagine more superb setting in the world.

Aside from the Barracuda Restaurant, my very best food experiences have been at casa particulares (homes of locals) and I ate in. What a refreshing contrast! Another of the many contrasts here in Cuba. The food was tasty and plentiful.

For breakfast my Habana host, Pepe, was able to secure, pineapple, mango, bananas, guava, watermelon etc. For dinner I had fried (the most popular method of cooking) chicken, cucumber, beetroot, kumara, tomato, cabbage etc. Many vegetables are organic and what flavour! My casa hosts never join me at the table which feels extremely uncomfortable.

Likewise at my casa hosts in Trinidad were truly wonderful. The meals are absolutely superb and such variety. Again, the food is put on the table and I am left to eat it.

The people are truly kind, and having a “turista” gives them more rights to particular food, quantity and of course (much needed) additional money.

As an aside, casa’s are registered with the government and my personal details are noted.

I´m missing.....toast!

I´m loving....the honey. It´s sublime and if NZ and Australia didn´t ban it....I would bring back a supply.

Photos ' The Cuban flag and ¨Che¨

A couple of random photos

Some random photos ' the roses ' in relief, my bedroom chandelier ' first casa.

The star ....this is in the Capitol Building and all distances in Cuba are measured from this point.

Just a couple of random photos. The tiles are from the bathroom in my first casa particulares. The detail here was just superb.

Casas are an excellent way to experience life with the locals but still as a ¨turista¨(tourist). In each place I have had aircon, en suite and in some cases a balcony for my exclusive use. They are all fantastic hosts and very proud to have visitors. I love it. Of course, one gives up a little freedom....but not much.

By the way....I´m in Trinidad now and loving it. I planned to stay for three nights but have just extended it to five. Tomorrow I´m off on a steam train journey into whats promoted as a very pretty trip.

Hopefully will have an update and some photos (of Trinidad) from this very historic and picturesque town of around 55,000 residents and the train trip.

Package Tourists

Package Tourists

Varadero beach is gorgeous. It’s fine white sandy beach extends mile after glorious mile in each direction of my resort.

But, this is not my kind of place and I don’t like being here very much. I have a wrist band to identify me and what kind of package I have.

This place is tailor made for the all inclusive type of tourist where they have flights, hotel, food, entertainment and all they want to drink for one price. I rebel against all of that as I would rather find places and meet the locals.

Nonetheless, I am pleased I visited. The beach extends along the peninsular for a 20 kilometre swathe of unbroken white sands edging the Straits of Florida which is very pretty. Its been a lovely rest and my hotel room is large, comfortable and has a nice shower with hot water. A bonus, I caught up on my washing. From my balcony, large enough to host a party of twenty, I can watch more glorious sunsets.

This is a beautiful part of Cuba and down this end many of the hotels blend rather sensitively into the landscape. At the “posh” end, hotels are pristine, prissie, protrude and are pricey.

Getting around is very easy. There’s the option of – horse and cart; new taxi, old (beautifully restored or not) taxi, scooter and buggy contraption or the Varadero hop on hop off bus (approx AUD6). Yesterday while I waited for the bus an old white Cadillac convertible taxi passed me by. If I see it again, I’m hailing it and going for a ride; anywhere…it is gorgeous.

Supermarkets are also reasonably well stocked here, unlike Habana. I got ripped off yesterday by not one but by two cashiers. At one I was overcharged. The second I was shortchanged and when I kept my hand out the change was topped up, but I reaslised later, it still wasn’t enough. So I was on my guard at the bank and managed to pick up a really good trick. When counting out my Euro, I noticed one note float off the desk. Naturally I thought she would finish counting and pick it up. But she brazenly overlooked it and said “Euro 140”.

My response, “I think one note dropped on the floor”. After a cursory glance she replied “No. I stood calmly and after a short delay, she looked harder and retrieved my 10 Euro!

Photo: Gorgeous Varadero Beach.

Sunset from my deck at Varadero....there were some good things here!!!

I´m off to Trinidad next. I added this to my trip. Will let you know how I enjoy that.

Out and About in Habana

Out and about in Habana

I am a disgraceful tourist! It’s excessively hot outside and I retreated to the coffee shop attached to the Hotel Habana Libre. This hotel, once part of the Hilton chain, was commandeered by Castro’s men in January 1959 just a few months after it had opened. Castro ran the countries affairs from the 24th floor of this hotel for awhile. Photos on the 2nd floor show his men lounging about in the hotel.

I managed to cool down in the cafes airconditioned bliss whilst indulging in some passable food.

What a beguiling city this is. Around every corner intriguing new sights unfold, sending my senses into overdrive!

Earlier I walked several kilometers from the Gran Teatro de La Habana (the outstanding building is home of the national ballet), along the curved waterfront and up to the hotel. By the way, I tried to get tickets but they are not currently performing and they couldn’t advise whether they are later in June; I will try again.

Anyway, I strolled down the majestically shaded avenue to the harbour. I was so busy gawping at the buildings around me that I nearly missed the large modern sculptres lining the middle of the pedestrian walkway I was strolling down. Every few metres seats invite passersby to stop and rest awhile. And I did.

The waterfront area is being developed and once complete will surely tempt tourists by the plane load.

From my airconditioned seat in the café I can see the queue over the road steadily growing as locals wait patiently for an ice-cream. Cuba is famous for Coppelia ice-cream as it is for people having to queue for all manner of goods and services. Apparently you stand in line and have whatever flavour is offered that day. As yet, I haven’t been tempted. Perhaps after tomorrow when I’m at the beach resort of Varadero which is about four hours by road from here, I will indulge.

Apparently Varadero is very touristy so I am unsure how long I will want to stay.

Photos: A very happy artist

signing the piece of work I just purchased.

Typical touristy photo.

The antique bookstore in Plaza de Armas.....

Oh the language.

Oh the language. Or should that be oooh the language?

The colonization of Cuba began 1511 (nearly 20 years after Christopher Columbus sighted it) by Diego Valazquez de Cuellar who arrived with a Spanish flotilla of four ships and 400 men and began a brutal occupation. Spanish has remained the primary language of Cuba.

I am so very glad I learnt some before coming here but it is very basic. Probably age three level! I can pick up more than I can say but I keep trying.

The education system here (and health) is excellent to University level and free. The adult literacy rate is currently 97%. Many speak multiple languages and very well too. Morning television has tuition classes for many languages including English.

So for the 2million (approximately) visitors to this island, who do not speak the language well, there is help nearby. I’m asking “hablo en poco espanol” and “hablo en inglese”? (which translates to “I speak a little Spanish” and “do you speak English”?) often.

I was writing this as I waited for my breakfast and a four piece ban just assembled and began to play. It’s just for me; I am the sole diner at this café on the edge of Plaza de Vieja. As usual the bowl rests in front of them and I know I will pay for this treat soon.

Around the perimeter of this square I see beautifully restored buildings, some in various stages of restoration, across one corner a magnificient (actually I could really over-use that word in this city) a hotel façade complete with idle yellow crane. There doesn’t appear to be any work being done on any of these buildings. From what I can remember of my friend Gav’s photos (he visited about two years ago), it looks the same.

This square was an open air market until 1835. Today, I wish it were again. It needs people. But for now I have a seat at a restaurant on the edge of a historic square to enjoy and enjoy it I did.

Hello all.
I just tried to load an article but I kept getting errors. They guys here don't know what's wrong so I will try another internet cafe ....if I can find one and try again. I had some great photos too. Bye for now....must escape this air conditioned room and go out into the searing heat. J

I’m not sure I should be let out alone

Honestly I’m not sure I should be let out alone!!!

I had been wandering joyfully along the decaying but beautiful calles (streets) of Old Havana when I looked down at my blouse to discover the middle button undone, revealing my (admittedly chaste) bra. Horrors!

This could bring a new meaning to the chap enthusiastically shouted “I love you” and proceed to strum his guitar and serenade me with the song “I just called to say I love you”. And I thought he was hustling the tourist for a tip. Or later, the guy who blew me an enthusiastic kiss as I sat supping a cold beer and awaited my meal whilst watching the world go by.

Life on the street here is vibrant and talented musicians play a variety of instruments so the sound wafts alluringly around every corner of this city. It is a place of contrasts; I have no seat on my toilet at the casa but I have TWO glorious chandeliers. Much here looks very jaded but clearly was once exquisite.

After an hour here I was convinced that I am in love. I’ve found a place to rival Vientiane (Laos) and Cambodia’s Siem Reap. I want to walk like the locals. They exude style and sexuality in every move; both males and females.

I had a divine coffee at Plaza Vieja where some of the old buildings which have World Heritage status are undergoing renovations. Even the coffee rivals that of Laos (which is organic and grown locally) or New Zealand (where we have perfected coffee roasting of the imported ingredients). I have an idea for a posting about coffee but that can wait for another day when I have sampled a few more.

It’s been very hot today but around mid afternoon a refreshing breeze provided some relief. I had an early night because I calculated I had spent over 24 hours at airports since I left Sydney. Then there’s the flying time to add to that so I am a very tired but deliciously happy traveller.

I’m surprised…..how quickly I fell in love with this city.

I’m glad…..that I took Spanish lessons but wished I had worked harder with it and that I’d taken the time to do a refresher course. Its coming back to me though and I sometimes I’m able to make myself understood. They are very patient with my attempts and I think its appreciated. I have this philosophy that a traveler is in their land and so one should never expect English but it does make life easier with certain dealings.

I love the helpfulness of the locals…..I was looking for a new Casa today. The one recommended to me didn’t suit and so the owner walked a few blocks with me calling in on several (they are not easily identifiable). He found a lady with a room but it didn’t suit either so she made several calls and finally found a possibility for me. That owner came to get me and walked me back to his place for an inspection. I’m going to move there (Pepe’s place) on Monday. It has a balcony overlooking the street and although the water is cold (only), I chose it because it has more light and a table for me to set up my laptop etc.

Photos: the lounge room at my casa (house)

Typical old buildings.

Sunset New Caledonia Style

This photo is taken from the yacht which was tucked up in a little bay off Mathieu Island (approximately 4 hours cruising from Noumea). I used my new 18-200 mm lense which I love.

Isn't it great? We had several glorious sunsets with sun beams reaching all the way to the boat.

Nautilus Retrieval

Nautilus Retrieval

We were cruising around Baie de St Vincent and Pam spotted a nautilus shell bobbing in the water. Allan yelled “I’m turning around! Get something to collect it – these are rare and valuable”.

Turning around a 48 foot yacht is not that easy but Allan executed it expertly. Retrieving the shell, however, was not that easy and it necessitated several maneuvers and the three of us working in tandem to get it. Eventually Pam (with me leaving over the lifelines using the boat hook to gently push it towards her) she managed to scoop the old shell safely onto the boat. It’s a precious and rare find.

News to me, but nautilus are fascinating creatures (part of the mollusk family) unchanged for more than 100 million years. The shells grow to around 30cm (the one we scooped up is about 15cm across), is lined with mother of pearl.

Its shell is divided into 36 chambers which are formed one after the other over years. Before developing a new chamber, the old one is closed off. The chambers are filled with a mixture of water gas and air which it adjusts for buoyancy as it plumbs depths of up to 500 metres on the edge of the barrier reef. I found this truly amazing and made the find even more special.

Photo: Nautilus shell on the after deck.