What a Way to Have a Face Peel

What A Way to Have a Face Peel…..

After tripping and falling, my face looked like I’d gone 15 rounds with Mike Tyson.

I saw a great many doctors in five different hospitals – four in Vietnam and one in New Zealand. After receiving a couple of rather gloomy predictions (saying I’d need plastic surgery in two/three places on my face) meant I wasn’t all that optimistic of making such a great recovery. But I have! In fact, in the last week friends have said “what’s all the fuss been about?”

Sure I still have a couple of scars but I think that my healing is nothing short of miraculous. Most of my face had abrasions - what a way to have a face peel! Although there is still some question about whether I’ll need surgery on my nose, a decision on that will be made later.

I was flown home (thank goodness for excellent insurance cover) for check-ups and that has been good. I’ve been able to heal and relax at home which has been all good and I am now very well rested.

Back in Hoi An I was surrounded by caring people – locals and a NZ nurse followed the bikes to the hospital and were there to help and comfort me. The chap from reception at the hotel also came to the hospital and wouldn’t leave my side. They were all simply wonderful.

Getting to the hospital was a mini adventure in itself. I was knocked unconscious during the fall but when I came to I remember being put on the back of a motor bike. When I realized they had a second bike lined up beside me I rapidly regained my focus (sure!). They had one bike for my bottom and one for my feet. When I realised the plan to take me on two bikes I shouted at them (they didn't deserve that and I hope they forgive my reaction)! Then I blacked out again and the next thing I remember was being sandwiched between to chaps on the back of ONE bike. I think I fainted again because when I became conscious I was in a hospital bed. I have no idea who those men were but I am so very grateful to them and to the other locals who rallied around me. Of course there is much more to tell but I don’t want to bore you with it all.

My adventure is not over. In fact I am even more keen to get back on the road than I was before (if that’s possible). At this stage I am not sure where or when I’ll go. Meantime I’ve gone from temperatures in the high 30’s to, at times, single digits back here. But with these cooler temperatures I’m loving the freshness in the air.

The snow on the Mt Ruapehu, south of Taupo, where I’m based right now, looks absolutely sublime and it will be a bumper ski season for both the north and south islands. Great for skiers and boarders. Check it out on http://www.snowreport.co.nz. .


I’m surprised…..at how exhausted I really was after my trials and I began to relax at home. I’m also surprised at how much damage a wee trip can do. It really was a good decision to come back for awhile.

Food sensation……there’s a lot of competition for this spot actually but the overall winner would have to be beetroot – eaten in sandwiches, with salads…in fact just about everything…..whole, sliced, grated……Yum.

Best coffee….where do I start? These are all fantastic. At Tauranga and the Mount – Gana, Deck Chair, SideWalk and Mediterrano. In Rotorua – Capers. In Taupo Body Fuel is my favourite and I grace that café with my presence everyday. Fantastic.

I’m loving…..being around family and friends. I’m also loving being able to walk down the street unimpeded by stuff all over the foot path and being able to cross the road easily. Oh…and I’m loving driving again. After several months of being a passenger it’s great to be behind the wheel again.

Best sight……Flying into Auckland. As usual the countryside looked so green and being bounded by a couple of harbours it was fantastic to look down on the water.

I’m excited……that a parcel I posted home from Laos arrived safely yesterday. It was so exciting to be here to unwrap it and distribute the gifts myself. I’d forgotten what I’d packed in the box so it was all a big surprise!

Questions I’m most asked…….What was the best place you visited? Actually I change my mind about that – it could be Luang Prabang, Sapa, Halong Bay, Ninh Binh or Siem Reap – but not necessarily in that order. What did you miss most? Again difficult – food would be beetroot and cheese, other things – ease of communication in English.

I’m reading…..more Lonely Planet guides…..

Photos..... Auckland from the top of Rangitoto, a koru (the koru unfurl to become ponga fronds) and Tawharanui - a fabulous reserve (and one of my favourite places) north of Auckland.

Terror on Tonle Sap Lake

When I planned a late afternoon visit to the most productive fresh water lake in the world; the home of many people who live on the water, the last thing I thought I needed to consider was my safety. Afterall, this is a very popular tourist attraction, and yet, this trip was extremely scary.

Access to the lake is via an extremely rutted dusty red road and for the first time in many days of travel on my tuk tuk I grab the holds with both hands to try to steady my body from being thrown out of the cab. Buses, going too fast for the conditions, pass us stirring up a thick cloud of dust. The air is disgusting with a nasty cloying fishy smell.

The poverty here is heart wrenching too as, lining the road on both sides, are one roomed shacks made of thatched leaves, some in a poor state of repair. I see the families belongings piled up on the raised floor.

We stop and a young man meets me – about 14 years old I guess. He directs me and I follow him down the hardened bank of mud, littered with rubbish, and climb over several long boats to get to the one I’m to go out on.

When I get to the boat I am worried. The boatman is already pulling and I move very quickly as the distance between the two boats widens. I am shocked to see the age of the “skipper” – he is a child and I am the only passenger. Too late to act, we are underway.

To get to the lake we navigate a muddy and confused water way. The skipper keeps stalling the motor. This is definitely not to be recommended in swift, swirling and confused water. I am even more worried with the company of three lads – the skipper aged 16 and his two companions 15.

They are hoons and keep larking about as though they are on a school trip. As I am the only person on the boat I feel rather insecure. My feelings of unease heighten when a machete drops down from somewhere. I take a little comfort in the fact that there are many other boats around us and I feel that if I need to, I’ll yell for attention.

But, when we reach the main body of the lake, they want to drop me off at a floating restaurant out there on the water (many people live on the water here) but I don't want to stop. The lads are not happy and confer in an agitated manner amongst themselves. From the truculent body language the skipper makes a decision - he takes the boat far away from everywhere and cuts the motor! I decide to play it cool and try to look like I’m not worried while we drift for a time.

Eventually the “skipper” starts the motor again (mind you he still keeps stalling it) and we do a little tour around the floating shacks on the water.

I am relieved that soon we turn to go back. Then they start hassling me for tips. They want money for school, they say. Although still concerned for myself .....I say "later".

He repeats and repeats his demands getting right up against my face so that I can feel his putrid breath on my cheek and I pull away a little. He says, rather crossly “do you understand what I’m asking? You pay me now!”

I nod. Then another of the threesome said “do you understand what he said?” nodding towards his mate.

I reply with much more bravery than I feel "yeah I understand really well....do YOU understand…..we are not back at shore yet."

I remind myself to breathe deeply. Where is the rescue remedy when I most need it?

I feel like I am in no win situation. I don’t want to tip them – the scumbags don’t deserve it. But I also feel that if I give them money and they think it’s insufficient they will make it difficult for me.

We make it back and they pull the boat up on a muddy bank. I see my lovely tuk tuk driver, the same one I’ve had my entire time in Siem Reap, and feel huge relief. He comes down and takes my bag and camera so now, unencumbered, I can easily leap off the bow of the boat.

Meantime the money I pulled out of my purse (in case I had no option but to tip) was still in the palm of my sweaty hand. I walk away, very quickly, grasping it and I feel much satisfaction that I've outwitted the young shites!!!

However, I was very cross and rather shaken. I told my driver and the people at the hotel. They said that I should have reported it to the water police out at the lake - but who would know! I was too shaken to do anything but feel relieved I had gotten away safely. It’s a shame because this behaviour does little for a region trying to grow tourism. I was happy to be back at my hotel and able to strip off all my clothes for washing and to take a shower to get rid of the nasty lingering smell.