This time last year....

It's amazing to think that this time last year I was in Mexico City after spending a month in Cuba.

This life on the road just seems to fly by and I'm often amazed at where this journey has, or is, taking me. As I indulge in a very short reflection.

I really enjoyed my time in Cuba. Its a country full of contrasts and I am constantly amazed at how happy they appear despite a lot of hardship in many instances. It really is worth going there before it changes.

Since this time last year, I've lived in Australia, Malaysia and now Vietnam. Phew! The thought of packing up and getting to a place, sorting out phones, where to buy supplies in multiple countries even exhausts me. If I let myself think of it!

I've also spent time in New Zealand (a couple of visits) and Singapore which I thoroughly enjoyed. I always enjoy getting back to New Zealand and the time there always seems so very short.

I'm enjoying Vietnam again even though its for work, I'm getting out and about again mixing with locals and eating in authentic cafes and restaurants.

Best coffee........Highland Coffee. It's locally grown and very very good.

I'm missing.....marmite. I had a goodie parcel posted from New Zealand over six weeks ago with a supply of marmite in it but unfortunately its gone missing!

I'm reading.......a very nice novel. The Horse Dancer by Jojo Moyes. It's the second novel I've read by her and this one is equally as good as the first which was The Ship of Brides.

I'm loving......being amongst all of things (well most anyway) foreign and just being out there doing it!

Friendly Hai Phong

Going to a city to live for a few months is always an interesting exercise as you ponder questions such as what will the food be like? Before you arrive you have no real idea of what to expect and so we all stocked up on a few basics in Hanoi! After all, I reasoned to myself as I carried overloaded supermarket bags back to my Hanoi Hotel, "I'm not sure if I'll be able to get muesli there"!

However, we (I'd roped the other two teachers into my supermarket frenzy) had no need to worry at all because Hai Phong has several excellent supermarkets selling local

goods. There is also a limited supply of western food so all is well!

Most of the teachers here stay at the one hotel - even those who are on one year contracts. It's a great life as I go to work and when I come back (home?), my bed has been made and I have fresh towels hanging on the bathroom rail. What more could a gal ask for?

The longer standing teachers have also given us many tips of where to eat which has been really great and I now have a few "favs". One restaurant is on the 12th floor of a bank building. You would never know its there as there is no sign outside and even when you get into the lift there is nothing to indicate which floor. It has a marvellous view of Hai Phong and excellent food - Western and Vietnamese.

Here are a few photos taken from my hotel balcony. It's an ever changing and most interesting view. I spend hours watching the street scene unfold before me. Notice my wonderful world map coffee mug (bought in Singapore) sitting on the rail.

I've also posted a couple of articles on

HubPages. This first one is on Vietnamese food.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Vietnam-Travel-Vietnamese-Food-Ideas-for-Travelers

The second one is a favourite of mine - The Old Quarter in Hanoi where the 1000 year old streets still have some of the ancient trades doing business there. Its a really fascinating wander through this area. I hope you enjoy it.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Old-Quarter-Hanoi

Frenetic Hanoi

Here's the latest wanderings from Hanoi. I'd quite forgotten just how frenetic the traffic is here in Hanoi. Going out onto the street, one is assailed by the "sounds" of this city - horns honking, motor scooters revving and construction!

The city seems to be in a rebuilding phase with workers crawling over building sites all over the city. Even the Old Quarter has been spruced up since my last visit here. I'll write about the Old Quarter in a separate article.

The scooters continue to amaze me. There are so many and they are often overloaded with people, and goods being delivered. Heck, I even saw a massive flat screen television being transported on the back of a scooter and it wasn't tied on. How they manage to weave through the congested traffic to safely deliver it is completely beyond me.

I'm loving......the vibrant city.

I'm missing....morning breakfast television. Oh and of course good coffee. It was excellent in Singapore but here I haven't found a really good one yet.

I'm reading....nothing at the moment. I'm too busy sightseeing!

Questions People Most Ask

Questions people most ask me:

1. Is it safe to travel to those countries? - meaning Cambodia, Laos, and Cuba etc - I found them safer than I thought. But I try not to take undue risks. Sometimes I’ve been caught out though, like my experience on Tonle Sap Lake in Cambodia and written about here. But that experience is, by far, in the minority.



2. Do you get lonely? Rarely. But, I hasten to add, I do like my own company. If I do feel like conversation, there’s always somebody close by for a chat. Other travelers love to chat and so too do the locals (language permitting). Sometimes the encounters with the locals are very special as in Cambodia (see the hatmaker article), and see the photo below where people in Ninh Binh (Vietnam) lined up for me to take photos of their children. And then there’s skype!



3. What place do you like the most? Phew! That’s almost impossible for me to answer – I could break it up into categories.

i. The best shopping – Mexico City or the markets in Vientiane;
ii. Memorable ruins – Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples are a stand-out, particularly the isolated temples;
iii. Most memorable sunset – supping champagne on the after deck of friends yacht whilst anchored off a gorgeous deserted island in New Caledonia;
iv. Best meal – a Vietnamese hotpot shared with a Singaporean mother and adult daughter in the mountains of Sapa;
v. Best beer – a cold beerlao consumed while watching the sun go down over the Mekong River;
vi. Best coffee, but overall the divine taste of fair trade coffee supped in Laos is excellent;
vii. Best beach – so many.

So many great memories and, one hopes, more to come.

Photos - all Vietnam : Shopping for lanterns in Hoi An

My tailor in Hoi An (just before the accident)

Parents lined their kids up for me to take photos of them in Ninh Binh

Weekend Treats

Weekend Treats



I've been having a great ole time exploring. I went down to Wollongong for one weekend, Melbourne for another and last weekend walked the Bronte to Bondi Beach stretch again.



The train to Wollongong takes about one half hours - just enough time to leave the city behind and dream about visiting a new place by the sea. I had a beaut time catching up with Mum and Dad and other relatives. Mum had been there for 3 nights already so she had a favourite cafe and it quickly became my "fav" too. The coffee was excellent; the food a tasty mix of Greek and Australian. We were spoilt for cafe choice in this vibrant seaside community.



Back in Sydney I went to see My Fair Lady. Ooh what a treat. We had really great seats and the show was as foot tappingly wonderful as ever. I first saw it as a child and it was lovely to become re-acquainted with it. This production was very professional and fast moving with fantastically beautiful costuming.



Last weekend it was Melbourne's turn and of course the main reason for being in town was to see the netball....but I've already written about that.



They take the arts and coffee very seriously in this sophisticated city. Fantastic sculptures of all sorts are dotted around the walk ways and parks. As it was close to Melbourne Cup time, I was interested to see the magnificently crafted hats in the shops. They were noticeable in cafes too as women sat to rest awhile, their meticulous white hat boxes taking pride of place on the table top. I was not game enough to ask for a peep but it was ever so tempting!



Where to take my coffee stops was a constant challenge because there are many to choose from and I didn't want to waste a break in a sub-standard cafe. My sister introduced me to one. I am glad she accompanied me to My-ko cafe which is in a little back street off Bourke and close to King Street. They are very proud to serve fair trade coffee. My cappuccino was lovely with sweet notes on the palate. The hosts are very friendly and I loved the booth style table seating.



My other coffee find was Brother Baba Budan at 359 Little Bourke Street http://www.brotherbababudan.com.au/. Coffee IS their business. The crema on my long black looked (and was) thick and caramelly. The coffee was rich with complex flavours alighting my taste buds. Although the coffee was the highlight, being in the cafe itself was not an overly pleasant experience because it was too crowded. I was extremely impressed to note though, that when the barista changed, she brewed a "taster" for the manager to critique.



Then last weekend I was again on the Bronte to Bondi Beach walk to see the annual Sculpture by the Sea exhibition. What a joy! Such wonderful creativity presented in harmony with the cliff faces, parks, sea and rock-scape. I loved it. This is its twelfth year anniversary and it's on for about three weekends so if you're planning a trip to Sydney around this time next year, I would definitely recommend trying to combine it with this exhibition. Pam and Allan and I finished off (as you do) with a long lunch at Bondi Beach. What a great way to finish a superb day.



It's an interesting life and I haven't even had time to tell you about the course I am doing in Aborigine Culture. It is confronting; it's fascinating; it's extremely interesting.....maybe another time......



I'm missing........good bread. I can't find any - even the Baker's delight is different.



I'm loving........how close I am to everything here at my wee little place in Bondi Junction.

The newspapers are full of..........various scandals, news about how broke the NSW Government is and - last week the Melbourne Cup (from days and days before the event), the US elections etc



I'm surprised.........how much attention is given to the execution and comment around and about regarding the Bali bombers....I find it quite, quite offensive.



I'm reading..........Nothing!!!

Photos: My-Ko coffee
Images from Sculpture by the Sea

Is Age Just a Number on a Piece of Paper?

Is Age Just a Number of a Piece of Paper?

The other morning as I reclined back in bed with a steaming cup of tea, I let my thoughts wander freely.

I was thinking about age and about how, like many boomers, I really don't feel my age.

Earlier in the year when I was in Asia, I mixed with people a few decades my junior and the communication was seamless so unless I am confronted with age, I don't think about it much. In fact, I'm of the view that it's more about attitude than a number. Only the mirror tells me otherwise....and occasionally the attitude or comments of others.

The day was inclement and still in my philosophical space I wandered down the road to see the hyped movie of the moment "The Duchess". When I finally reached the front of the queue I was amazed to be charged $12.50 for the ticket. It seemed cheap but since this was the first movie I've seen since arriving in Sydney, I had no benchmark and accepted the price. I took my seat and for some reason I looked at the ticket and was shocked.....it was for a senior citizen! Oh my did that slash through my philosophical "I don't feel my age" moment of earlier. As an aside, does Kiera Knightley have only one expressions for pain or humiliation (of which there were many opportunities) - that of someone about to throw up! It was quite off-putting.

This past weekend I had another first for this trip - the walk from Bronte to Bondi Beach. Before going to Bronte I stopped by the old Victorian Cemetery at Waverley. It was there I spotted the magnificent marble monument of Alexander MacKenzie who was tragically killed by a stagecoach in 1884. He was just 54 years of age. He has a marvellous resting place.

Just below the cemetery is Bronte Beach; a cafe lover's haven where I had my choice of ten or so cafes. I didn't notice the name of the one I'd selected until after ordering - The Bogey-Hole Cafe. Is this a reference to golf or something altogether too disgusting to think about when waiting for food?

Back on the track, the very pretty walk hugs the coastline and dips in and out of alluring beaches. Interesting rock features abound. On a previous visit I walked from Coogee to Bondi Beach with my friend Ross. We thoroughly enjoyed it. It was hot that day and unfortunately we were under time pressure so couldn't stop for long anywhere. This time though I was able to take as long as I liked.

So, after sustenance at Bronte, the Tamarama Beach Cafe beckoned me. Tamarama Beach has been nicknamed Glamourama because of the beautiful people who frequent it but this day they were obviously enjoying a champagne breakfast elsewhere. This pocket sized beach has a couple of volleyball courts marked out and some fit enthusiastic foursomes played competitively.

As I sat there on the edge of the beach, relishing my excellent long black and enjoying the spectacle before me, I contemplated the world yet again. I felt no desire to swap places with the energetic foursomes. Would my feelings about swapping, I mused, be any different a few decades or so earlier....during the time I sauntered around in short short skirts? ....I doubt it. I like this stage of my life.

I'm enjoying.......exploring new places. I've been getting off the bus a few stops before the Uni and wandering around Randwick.

Taste sensation.........gorgeous rock melon.

I'm reading what book?.......A Parrot in the Pepper Tree by Chris Stewart. He's the author of Driving over Lemons which is a best seller about setting up an organic farmlet in Spain. It's great.

I'm surprised........over a news report stating Australian's have about 50-60% of their wealth in superannuation. Oh my...wouldn't kiwis love to be in that position?

Very special.......one of the lovely ladies at work gave me a CD the other day. It's Gunyah by John Williamson. She gave it to me because of the song about Emu's and Kiwi's. The lyrics go something like "the Emu's and the Kiwis stick together like glue - when tempers fray on a summers night if you pick on one you pick on two....the Kiwi's and the Emu". It's lovely and all the more special because Maria gave it to me.

The Plan Continues - Sydney

The Plan Continues – Sydney

I’ve been here in Sydney for about six weeks now and loving it. Of course living in Bondi is such a cliché for a kiwi but it’s fantastic for me as I am a few minutes away from the massive Westfield shopping centre, quick access to beaches (Bronte and Bondi) and a short bus ride to work. The city is just ten minutes away by train.

I hear a little talk of a recession and tough times but on the weekend the Mall is jam packed with people. Just before opening time at 10am people are standing around waiting to get in. The people buying at Harvey Norman’s or Dick Smith’s don’t seem to think there is a problem – and the stores are always full.

I’m enjoying my job at the University too. I’m writing and getting paid for it! It’s extremely interesting work too. Of course me being me, I completely altered the content, look and feel of their policies so it was a nail biting time while I waited to see their reaction to the first few. Thankfully they really like my approach. Even so, I must say that after nine months of such delicious freedom it has been rather challenging for me to work an eight hour day.

That said, I really don’t think I could have written a better script for myself! Oh…perhaps if I was able to report that I was sailing regularly in these beautiful waters around here that would be an even better outcome. That remains elusive so it’s obviously not my time to be out on the water.

What is definitely panning out for me though is leaving a regular job to replace it with something much more elastic and tenuous. I like the “possibility” that comes with this type of life. Even though I was extremely scared at the time, I am so glad I took this punt and that it is working out for me right now.

I’ve had many visitors too and it’s been great to spend some time with them in this vibrant city.

Last weekend Suzanne was over and so we took a ferry trip. She owns a leather handbag manufacturing company and is starting a blog about a wandering bag so I helped out by holding it up in odd places to capture some photos for her to use. The people around us thought we were crazy but we had fun.

I loved the bag so much that I bought it off her and now it will have different adventures! It’s one of those perfect bags with special spaces for everything I need. Once, after deciding I was carrying around too much "stuff", I bought a small handbag. The theory being I would just ration what I carried around with me. It didn't work for me! I frequently had to leave the zip open or carry important things in my hand. I was so relieved once I realised my "small handbag experience" wasn't working and I could be true to myself with a larger version. My new bag is large and it kinda reminds me of my old schoolbag - except this is a beautiful and very pleasing colour - one that will complement most of my clothes. Here’s Suzanne's website featuring some other bags - www.konev.co.nz.

My plan is to work here until March or April next year then pick up where I left off and travel to Eastern Europe for a few months and then repeat the work/travel cycle. I am keen to continue doing this for as long as I can as I have many more places I want to explore. It’s a beaut existence.

I’m loving…..Living the dream. It’s wonderful that I have been able to arrive in a country and have my skills highly valued, and so very quickly.

I’m reading…...Lonely Planet Eastern Europe book to research the next travel segment.

Taste sensation……Yummmmm….where do I start? Raisin toast, cherry tarts, eating divine cherries and strawberries (in September!); anything from the roast nut stands. Add to this list Greek style fetta and yoghurt and Portuguese tarts (custard nestled in a light crispy filo style pastry). Of course all of the “bad” things are taken in moderation!

Good restaurant…..The Bondi Social Club – very well presented tapas style food. If you get a terrace table the view over the beach is excellent. The toilets are not recommended though!

Best Coffee……A little erratic but coffee from one of the Uni’s cafes is pretty good. The coffees quite good just down the road from me at the Curious Cat – yes complete with a cat that pays rent for the best and sunniest spot.

I’m missing……the Friday afternoon drinks and nibbles after work. Hey…here we even get to buy our own supplies of tea and coffee so as you can imagine I will NEVER be offered a glass of wine to finish up a week. Besides…I think it’s probably not allowed……I must check (or write) a policy!
Speaking of wine I am also missing not being able to buy it at the supermarket. Buying it at a bottle shop almost feels like a criminal activity.

In the newspapers…..heaps on politics. When Sarah Palin was announced as McCain’s running mate there was page after page after page on them. There’s been lots of upheaval here in state and federal politics and so that dominates at the moment.

I’m disappointed…….(extremely) to see that even when the Australian netball team won against NZ that they rated a few centimeters in the papers. When there was some big jock sports awards the wife’s/partners of the jocks got huge coverage – for their dresses, legs and cleavage!

I’m extremely excited….to be going to Melbourne in a couple of weeks time to see a NZ/Australia netball match. Bring it on!!!

Don't Blink or You Won't Keep Up!

Phew!!! I'm back on the road and in Sydney, Australia and what a week I've just had.

I have a J.O.B.! Within three days of being here I was offered and accepted a position at the prestigous University of New South Wales. I will be using my interviewing, training and writing skills as a Policy Writer. I begin tomorrow.

Frankly, I was amazed to find work so easily (and it may have been a fluke that this position was available just when I was ready), because although my qualifications and experience are excellent, it is a general background. I thought this lack of specialisation would count against me. Not so. The hardest question they asked me was "give me a couple of titles of positions you would like". "Gosh...I don't know" I would say...."I can do this or this or this but to give them titles is not possible". Without fail they accepted that and went into bat for me. Anyway...I now have this six month contract and am looking forward to the challenge of doing something new. I thrive on this change.

I thoroughly enjoyed the Balmain area but had to move because of the difficulty in getting to and from the University. It's an eclectic mix of cafes, boutique shops and services housed in picturesque old buildings. It flows down to the water. Some other time I'd like to stay awhile there.

Instead, I've taken a lease on a place in Bondi Junction. Its incredibly central and reasonably close to the University. But....the downside of having a base for the next six months is I'm nesting. Horrors! I've even purchased cushions! So....just after divesting myself of all possessions unable to be squeezed into a suitcase, I'm buying again. Top of the list was beautiful sheets and a colorful duvet cover.

I'm loving.......being back on the road again. But....travelling and simply observing is very different to travelling and working.

I'm missing.....Olympic coverage with a NZ bias. Here its Australia, Australia and more Australia. Not that I think that's unreasonable due to the size of their team but something about other countries would be nice.

Best coffee......A few places in Balmain. The Bakehouse Cafe (the name belies a quasi sophisticated place) with great food and excellent coffee. Down the road Bertoni always had a queue so before I left went there and I cannot understand the fuss. Very average coffee.

I'm surprised.....absolutely gob smacked actually at how quickly I've scored a good job and accommodation. I must have several angels looking after me.

The papers and the media here are.....full of the Olympics and the Sonny Bill Williams episode.

Next I'll let you know how I cope with being a working woman after eight months of leisure.

What a Way to Have a Face Peel

What A Way to Have a Face Peel…..

After tripping and falling, my face looked like I’d gone 15 rounds with Mike Tyson.

I saw a great many doctors in five different hospitals – four in Vietnam and one in New Zealand. After receiving a couple of rather gloomy predictions (saying I’d need plastic surgery in two/three places on my face) meant I wasn’t all that optimistic of making such a great recovery. But I have! In fact, in the last week friends have said “what’s all the fuss been about?”

Sure I still have a couple of scars but I think that my healing is nothing short of miraculous. Most of my face had abrasions - what a way to have a face peel! Although there is still some question about whether I’ll need surgery on my nose, a decision on that will be made later.

I was flown home (thank goodness for excellent insurance cover) for check-ups and that has been good. I’ve been able to heal and relax at home which has been all good and I am now very well rested.

Back in Hoi An I was surrounded by caring people – locals and a NZ nurse followed the bikes to the hospital and were there to help and comfort me. The chap from reception at the hotel also came to the hospital and wouldn’t leave my side. They were all simply wonderful.

Getting to the hospital was a mini adventure in itself. I was knocked unconscious during the fall but when I came to I remember being put on the back of a motor bike. When I realized they had a second bike lined up beside me I rapidly regained my focus (sure!). They had one bike for my bottom and one for my feet. When I realised the plan to take me on two bikes I shouted at them (they didn't deserve that and I hope they forgive my reaction)! Then I blacked out again and the next thing I remember was being sandwiched between to chaps on the back of ONE bike. I think I fainted again because when I became conscious I was in a hospital bed. I have no idea who those men were but I am so very grateful to them and to the other locals who rallied around me. Of course there is much more to tell but I don’t want to bore you with it all.

My adventure is not over. In fact I am even more keen to get back on the road than I was before (if that’s possible). At this stage I am not sure where or when I’ll go. Meantime I’ve gone from temperatures in the high 30’s to, at times, single digits back here. But with these cooler temperatures I’m loving the freshness in the air.

The snow on the Mt Ruapehu, south of Taupo, where I’m based right now, looks absolutely sublime and it will be a bumper ski season for both the north and south islands. Great for skiers and boarders. Check it out on http://www.snowreport.co.nz. .


I’m surprised…..at how exhausted I really was after my trials and I began to relax at home. I’m also surprised at how much damage a wee trip can do. It really was a good decision to come back for awhile.

Food sensation……there’s a lot of competition for this spot actually but the overall winner would have to be beetroot – eaten in sandwiches, with salads…in fact just about everything…..whole, sliced, grated……Yum.

Best coffee….where do I start? These are all fantastic. At Tauranga and the Mount – Gana, Deck Chair, SideWalk and Mediterrano. In Rotorua – Capers. In Taupo Body Fuel is my favourite and I grace that café with my presence everyday. Fantastic.

I’m loving…..being around family and friends. I’m also loving being able to walk down the street unimpeded by stuff all over the foot path and being able to cross the road easily. Oh…and I’m loving driving again. After several months of being a passenger it’s great to be behind the wheel again.

Best sight……Flying into Auckland. As usual the countryside looked so green and being bounded by a couple of harbours it was fantastic to look down on the water.

I’m excited……that a parcel I posted home from Laos arrived safely yesterday. It was so exciting to be here to unwrap it and distribute the gifts myself. I’d forgotten what I’d packed in the box so it was all a big surprise!

Questions I’m most asked…….What was the best place you visited? Actually I change my mind about that – it could be Luang Prabang, Sapa, Halong Bay, Ninh Binh or Siem Reap – but not necessarily in that order. What did you miss most? Again difficult – food would be beetroot and cheese, other things – ease of communication in English.

I’m reading…..more Lonely Planet guides…..

Photos..... Auckland from the top of Rangitoto, a koru (the koru unfurl to become ponga fronds) and Tawharanui - a fabulous reserve (and one of my favourite places) north of Auckland.

Noisy Hanoi

Hello from another bustling, noisy, frenetic Asian city; Hanoi in northern Vietnam. I'm staying in the Old Quarter at the Gia Thinh Hotel http://www.sunshinehotel.com.vn/ and again I have managed to find a great "backpacker deal" but in a nice new boutique hotel where I have a rather lovely room with all the trimmings including in room internet using computers they supply.

It's a lot cooler here and I'm enjoying the respite from the heat.

I'm about two blocks back from the pretty Hoan Kiem Lake. The Old Quarter is a rabbit warren of tiny streets and alleys. In the 13th Century Hanoi had 13 guilds and each one established themselves in a different street. So there were whole streets making and selling things like headstones, another for silversmiths, scales, pipes, copper, herbal medicines etc.

Today some of that remains but tourist outlets seem to dominate with souvenir and art shops; food sellers, tour promoters etc. It's a visual feast and I love strolling and peeking into all the wee shops.

Today I happened across a street with shop after shop selling shoes, another carving and selling headstones. The other day I went along a whole street of vendors selling sweets, all laid out in baskets like the old supermarket "pick and mix" displays before we got all sanitised and put them behind plastic cages with handy pull down dispensers. But there's something I don't understand. All these sweet sellers appear to me to be displaying exactly the same goods, without product differentiation, how would a buyer decide who to buy from in a street of about two dozen sellers?

As I write this, I'm sitting in a small classy (read great service, huge shiny wine glasses) restaurant called Five watching the world go by as I sup a red wine and wait for the chef to cook my wild mushroom risotto.

This is theatre at its best; street theatre. I'm fascinated by the passing parade of cyclos (push bikes with a seat for passengers in front and covered by a wide umbrella). I'm especially interested in the body language of the cyclo passengers. Some people sit back and relax, others browse maps, perhaps following their journey. Some sit with their legs out straight and taut as if to brace themselves against an impending disaster. Others have knees together, ankles wide - kind of unsure whether to relax or not? I wonder what I do?

Of course, I've been ripped off by the cyclo drivers. It's a given really. It was my first ride and I was new in Hanoi. The streets in this area are extremely confusing. As usual, I was trying to go to a particular cafe in the hope of getting a good coffee (I didn't find one and haven't yet!). A cyclo driver saw me stop to review my map and after some discussion we agreed on a price for him to take me. I have no idea what I was thinking to agree to such a big fee, especially when I was sure my intended destination was close, but I did. We seemed to be travelling a long way and I began to feel much relief that I'd agreed to use his services. We twisted and turned and then pulled up outside my cafe. After my coffee, I wandered and after a couple of streets (no more), surprise, surprise I recognised the street - it was my hotel street and only about 4 minutes separated the two! I smiled. At least the guy had the decency to do a little work and show me a little of the old town of Hanoi for his fee.

You can't win with taxi drivers either. My guide book says to use the meter. The other day I was meeting a new friend and my hotel gave me an indication of price which I paid but as the distance seemed so short I felt the agreed price was too high. So the next time I went the same route I declined the set fee and instead went via meter. The drive seemed to take much longer and the price was double. So now I've decided to just bargain the first fee they mention and at least I know the price and I will get there more quickly otherwise they will find a way to get their money anyway! Oh dear....do I sound cynical?

I went to see the Water Puppets the other day which is about a 45 minute show and most interesting. This type of theatre originated in the 13th Century.

By the way I highly recommend Five - the food, service and location was great.

On Tuesday I'm off to Sapa which is a ten hour overnight train ride up into the mountains and close to the Chinese border.

Internet services and the brain willing, I'll send an update from there.

In the meantime, thanks for all the feedback, I really appreciate it. It's great to know who's reading Travelespresso and what you think about it.

I'm loving.......the thrill of anticipating going to a new place. I get all excited as I'm about to head off to somewhere new.

I'm surprised.......at how noisy Hanoi is. I hate to think how high the decibels are.

My favourite coffee.......are you kidding? I have tried several and its awful. That surpises me because they grow a lot of coffee here but I guess they haven't yet learned how to make the kind of coffee I enjoy. They have their own style and I don't like it at all.

Traveler's love........TripAdviser. It's a website where travelers like me write comments on the hotels they've stayed at. I love it because travelers are so objective and I have found the comments most useful. They help me to short list a hotel and to cross off others I had on my "hit list". If you are not familiar with it check it out http://www.tripadviser.com/. I used it to choose my Sapa hotel which is Sapa Rooms Boutique Hotel. To help other travelers, last week I added some of my own comments about various places I've stayed.

Nine Lives - The Road trip between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang

If I were a cat I would most likely have used up at least eight of my nine lives on the road trip from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang. The road is extremely windy, narrow and the driver of my mini bus a maniac of the first order!

But before surviving that trip I had three nights in Vang Vieng at the Ban Sabai Cottages http://www.xayohgroup.com/ in a magical spot on the bank of the Nam Song River. High cliffs form a dramatic backdrop. The tall mountains are angular, have mysterious looking valleys and are tucked one behind another in layers. When I was there the heat created a haze adding to the mystery but I am told that during the rainy season they are clear.

The river level is low and from the deck of the hotel, I spent several hours watching the water flow languidly past as I nursed a wine or BeerLao. It all makes for an extremely restful place to spend some time.

The town itself I hated. This really is back-packer town and anyone over 30 (oh gosh is that me!) is seriously outnumbered. The bars and cafes all look the same. I’m not joking when I say that within a 30 metre stretch of the road I walked past three cafes with people laying (wasted….“happy” pizzas perhaps?) on axe shaped cushions watching re-runs of the TV show Friends! I couldn’t wait to leave it. But before I did I had two memorable days away from the crassness in the township.

Tubing down the river on an inflated tractor tyre is a rite of passage for back packers and I joined the ranks. It was great fun. The trip is only 3.5 kms but it took us hours, mostly because one of the people I’d joined decided that this was his day to get drunk and so we stopped many times along the way! I hate to think about how much alcohol he consumed but he began the day with three or four mojitos. Each one is served in a small plastic bag with a straw so its nice and easy to take on the tube! At the last stop he got a small bucket of lao lao which is a strong local spirit, but before that beer and other spirits!

So can you imagine the state he was in? Thankfully we had a guide (Xeng – pronounced Sang) and he took care of the five year old and the drunks antics.

Meanwhile, I drifted slowly down the river away from him, enjoyed being cool and drank in the scenic mountains towering above us. It is a spectacular sight and sometimes, depending upon which view was the best, I tubed backwards so I could enjoy more of the mountains rising above me. We reached our destination some six hours after leaving the hotel. The trip was most enjoyable, but not the company.

One of the reasons the backpackers love this river is the music blaring out, the bars and the rope swings across the river and many choose to stop, imbibe and leap into the river. The people I went down the river with had visited Vang Vieng five months earlier but they were surprised at how many more bars (with accompanying loud music) and swings there were. It seems that someone gets a good idea (whether that be tee shirts, bars, swings, cushion covers or whatever) and then everyone else copies.

I booked the guide, Xeng, for the following day to take me out into the countryside. I left the hotel on the back of his scooter and we went through villages, rice fields, caves, rode across narrow bamboo bridges (yikes!), saw a Buddha in a cave and some bats too among other things.

We stopped for lunch at Pha Tang Resort which is right on the edge of the river and about 17 kms out of town. It’s quiet and beautiful, again with mountains rising right up in front of us. It’s hard to imagine a more perfect place to rest awhile.

I loved the day and enjoyed racing around the countryside. It was an extremely interesting day and having the company of Xeng awesome because he took me to places that would otherwise have been difficult for me to get to. I plied him with questions about the people and customs. It also meant I could stop and take photos when I wanted to. The photo of the four girls (probably about four or five years old) was taken in a village. They just played very happily together by the river without an adult in sight.

Xeng is a very special young man and I would use him (photo attached) again in a heartbeat, except I doubt I will visit Vang Vieng again. He can be contacted through the company he works for - www.laokim.com.

I’d heard all sorts of horror stories of the trip between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang and now that I’ve done it, I agree with them. Everyone! The scenery on the trip is beautiful but in terms of motoring, it is one six hour journey I do not want to repeat.

The road winds up and up and around and around. Just when I thought that we couldn’t climb any higher we continued our journey up and up and up.

There are many very tight bends and not many straight stretches of road so when we got behind a slow vehicle, the driver would just overtake. The blind corners didn’t hinder his overtaking too often. It was hair raising.

I didn’t know whether to sleep so I wouldn’t know what was going on or stay awake to drink in all of the wonderful scenery. Of course I chose the latter option. But that meant I saw a couple of narrow escapes. Once I screamed as a truck came around the corner on the wrong side of the road and of course we were also on the wrong side; both drivers swerved and I swear the huge cab missed me by about 20 cm if that! It took several deep breaths to slow my heart beat. There were other close calls but not quite as close. If you were forced over the edge there would be no surviving it as barriers are few and very far between.

We had to stop or slow almost to a stand still many times for a variety of things:

Big articulated trucks on the side of the road, broken down or having a rest stop – very common and no warning – you would just come around the corner and there they were!

Wandering across the road:
A big fat goose
Mrs Pig and her piglets, curly tails held high and proud
A dog – it could hardly walk it was so fat along with numerous other dogs
Chickens and fluffy babies following behind, single file.
Cows
Goats
Children in dirty clothes or naked
Rocks piled on the side of the road – sometimes blocking one of the two narrow lanes.

The villages we passed through are very pretty. Most of the houses are flimsy and simply constructed with sheets of woven bamboo and roofs of palm leaves. Sometimes they are made of concrete and occasionally wood. The yards are dirt but are swept clean. There is no litter around (unlike southern Cambodia where, for much a trip through the countryside, you could be forgiven for thinking it was one big rubbish tip).

Sometimes on this trip north we passed through big villages. Many times though, high up in the hills, where extra dirt had been pushed when excavating the road, houses have been built on this reclaimed land – sometimes just a few of them, sometimes a dozen or so. Some of these dwellings are precariously cantilevered over the edge of the mountain with a huge drop down into the valley below. The children play in the only flat land available to them; right beside the road. People bathe within a metre of the roadside too.

The road through the villages was often straight so our driver sped on past, honking his horn to scatter a variety of animals and people out of our way.

Aside from traveling on the wrong side of the road and passing on blind corners, the other scary part of the trip for me was seeing, high up in the mountains, young men in the uniform of the youth, holding sub machine guns. Sometimes these weapons were held casually by their side, sometimes slung over their shoulder. At times these youths were alone, sometimes in pairs but once I saw a group of about a dozen. They were lounging, their guns menacingly arranged at the edge of the road, tee pee style, butts pointing skywards.

A lot of the land is being denuded, (even very steep mountains) and we passed many fires burning making the air thick with smoke. The smoke reaches Luang Prabang later in the day creating a haze over the town.

Now that I’ve arrived here, I am carrying on the tradition of telling horror stories about my trip between these two Laos towns along route 13. Having said that, it’s not a trip to be missed and I am still encouraging travelers heading south to consider taking it at least once because of the outstandingly beautiful scenery.

Luang Prabang is a delight and again I will probably stay longer here than originally planned. It is Lao New Year here so everyone is excited, accommodation in the town is full, and there is much celebration and festivals. I will tell you more in my next article.


I’m missing……..not understanding the customs. Much of what’s happening here is beyond my comprehension and I find that confusing.

Best coffee…..At Saffron by the Mekong in Luang Prabang. Its grown here too and is organic. The Arabica beans are grown especially for the café as a replacement crop for subsistence farmers who turned to growing opium poppies before it was outlawed and now coffee.

I’m loving…….wandering around the township taking photos here and there. It is very photogenic.

Bargain of the moment……..the lunch I bought for Xeng and me. It was more food than we could eat and two nice cold beers all for about $4.

Travelers love……tables in toilets or at least good hooks to hang the junk we carry around while going about what you need to do in these small spaces. Sometimes I've resorted to hanging my "hold-all bag" around my neck!

Taste sensation…….Iced teas – I’ve especially enjoyed watermelon of apple teas.

I’m reading……..Nights of Rain and Stars by Maeve Binchy. Unlikely plot and so, so perfect – all wrapped up in a fluffy pink paper with big exquisite bows and ribbons of cascading stars! Puerile. Not even good escapism.

Eating in Vientiane, Laos

Eating Places in Vientiane

Finally on the eve of my departure from Vientiane, people in the street are recognizing me; acknowledging me. The Lao people are shy and its taken time but slowly they “see” me.

I’ve changed breakfast spots – just for this morning. I’m at Le Banneton a french cafe and I’ve ordered a cappuccino and as always with a new place I wait, in anticipation for its delivery. Will it be a good coffee or one I want to leave? It arrives quickly and is presented with a flourish. The flavour is divine. It is smooth and flavorsome with a pleasant aftertaste which lingers on my palette. But the cappuccino itself is not well made. The pastry and bread selection here is superb and it inspires me to take a piece back to my hotel for a snack later. And I wonder why I’m not losing weight!

Their coffee is organic and fair trade coffee from the Jhai Estate. This is located in Bolaven Plateau which is in Southern Laos. Coffee was introduced to Laos by the French in the 1930’s. Coffee production went into decline with the war but is now a huge business. Whenever I read anything about Lao coffee they proudly proclaim its Fair Trade status. I’m all for Fair Trade – everyone has a right to be paid fairly for their efforts.

It’s very pleasant sitting here on a crudely constructed bench seat and wooden table watching the world go by. This is a quiet street traffic wise but the number of people wandering by keep it interesting; a mixture of locals and tourists.

Women wearing conical hats come past pushing big flat topped wheel barrow type contraptions loaded up with fresh vegetables. They have a set of scales ready to weigh the produce. Women from the shops and houses nearby come out and greet the seller and then they smell, feel and maybe buy. If it weren’t for the motor vehicles parked on the street or that I’m sitting at a café with a digital SLR camera in front of me, you could think it a scene from a bye-gone era.

A woman carrying baskets of food which hang from a sagging rod slung over her shoulder walks by. I’ve seen this a lot throughout my travels. They have an unusual gait, these vendors, which I imagine is attributed to the weight they carry every day. The gait is similar to the road walkers I’ve seen in the Olympic Games. The attached photo (sorry neither is the best quality – you just have to point and shoot or the moment is lost) is of a lady in Cheong Mon Beach, Thailand cooking my lunch. If the photo is clear enough you can see how much she carries – including fire.

My other favourite breakfast place is the Scandanavian Bakery which is by the fountain. I say breakfast place, but the set meal of cappuccino, fresh fruit salad and my choice of roll, cinnamon bun or croissant is enough for lunch as well. All for around $2.40 (and yes, I just checked my conversion). The quality of the food is extraordinarily good and it has a very pleasant atmosphere. By the way, the toilets at this Cafe are spotlessly clean. I might write an article about the toilets here in Asia sometime....but lets not mix it with food!

On my first day here I went to a river front place called SaBai Dee Café (actually this is the local greeting) and they have an extremely extensive menu. I got very excited when I saw their coffee menu and although it looked extremely good (and they served it with a cinnamon stick and a crockery spoon) the taste wasn’t very good. But…the fruit shakes here are superb and well worth another visit.

The other day I went to Sticky Fingers Café and Bar. My guide says it has the atmosphere of a Sydney café and describes it as being one of the best places to eat here, noting the cuisine as modern international. The first time I went I ordered a feta salad with balsamic dressing. It was my first salad for months and I thought I was in heaven. The taste was so fresh, the blend of flavours so perfect it sent my taste buds into orbit. But, I didn’t like the atmosphere. I’m not sure why. I gave them the benefit of the doubt and put down to me (perhaps I was out of sorts, hot or whatever) or that the staff were having a bad day. I went back a second time but I experienced the same feeling so although I loved the food, I’m not going to try it again.

Of course the JoMa Bakery Café is a favourite haunt and the food and coffee consistently excellent. They serve their own blend of coffee and both the cappuccino and espresso are very good. They offer small or large options. Once I tried a large cappuccino. It was indeed large and served in a mug. Three quarters of the mug was thick frothy milk – probably the thickest I’ve had. The only complaint is that they serve them with a sprinkle of cinnamon. Yuk! One day I tried asking for chocolate on top but my request was not understood. When in Rome….. and it’s a no fuss place to while away some time, people watching, writing or reading.

The police presence on the street is very noticeable today. They are standing around all of the corners in large groups. They are tense too. Occasionally I see young men with automatic guns. They hold their guns loosely by their sides. I’ve seen that on the streets and at the markets, here in Vientiane and Phnom Penh. It always unnerves me. What would it take for them to fire I always wonder?

People tell me that Vientiane is very busy and hot at present. They say it’s much nicer during January. But to me it doesn’t seem busy at all. I find it rather sleepy and that’s just fine by me. I love it here. I feel deliciously relaxed and comfortable here. So much so that I am sure I'm wandering around with a grin on my face all the time. Up until yesterday, I toyed with the idea of staying longer but tomorrow I leave for Vang Vieng – a four hour bus ride north. I’ve booked a place on the Song River – the Ban Sabai Bungalows. This area is famous for its caves and stunning limestone scenery.

After that I’m off to Luang Prabang which is even further north and then I’ll fly to Hanoi in Vietnam. But you’ll be hearing from me before that because I plan to be in Laos until my visa expires on the 23rd April.

First Impressions of Vientiane

First Impressions of Vientiane
Laos

Well….maybe not quite my first impressions since I have already enjoyed several nights here but I’ve flicked back through my diary and I note that I loved this city from the minute I got here.

Those of you who have been closely following my journey will note that when I left New Zealand, I had no intention of visiting Laos. But, several favourable comments from people en route, and I decided to visit here. And....I am glad I have.

It is considerably more laid back than any of the other places I’ve visited on this trip. Even going through the usual entry requirements; obtaining a visa (easy) and going through customs (waved through even though I’d mislaid my customs declaration), jostling for position to pick up the bags off the conveyer belt (it was waiting for me) was the quickest I’ve ever experienced. I was in a taxi cruising towards the capital of Laos inside 50 minutes from touch down.

Even the tuk tuk drivers are relaxed. One driver politely calls out to ask if I want a ride, and when I say “no thanks” I get the feeling they’re relieved because it saves them the effort of rousing themselves from their stupor. They can then go back and snooze (some even have hammocks strung up in the back) or carry on chatting to their mates. If I say “no” to one, you can be sure his colleague next door hears my reply and he’s certainly not going to bother asking. It’s very refreshing.

The official currency is the kip and this is most frequently quoted but the price could also be in US dollars or Baht so I need to keep my wits about me. However, in my dealings, I have found them to be scrupulously honest. It’s a weird thing entering a withdrawal at the ATM for 700,000 kip (the maximum) but it converts to just under USD100 so it doesn’t last very long, especially considering the great shopping opportunities.

Good buys are clothes – tailor made or off the shelf, jade, silver and interesting jewelry, some of it superb. Silk here is beautiful and plentiful although it appears more expensive than Cambodia. Locally grown coffee is plentiful too. So far all of the coffee I’ve seen is organic, fair trade and very very tasty. It would do well in NZ.

I bought some things at the market the other day and after receiving my cash, the proprietor tapped the kip around several piles of goods she had for sale. She said that my sale was the first of the day and her actions would bring her good luck for the day. These same actions were repeated with my second and third transactions. Bargaining is quick and a satisfactory price is reached very quickly.

Beer is cheap at about $1 or sometimes less. I had one sitting on the bank of the Mekong, looking across at Thailand while I watched the dipping sun turn a glorious red. Actually, sitting on the bank isn't quite what I thought it would be as there is a huge mud flat and the water can be seen in the distance. I guess once the monsoon season comes it will be more spectacular from this side. My guide book says at one part, in southern Laos, the river is around 14kms wide in the wet season! Now to see that would be amazing.

Much of the food is cheap too. This morning’s breakfast was under $3 for an excellent cappuccino served in a mug, a warmed croissant and a fresh fruit salad.

The French influence is strong here and very noticeable in the food. A couple of nights ago I had Lamb Shanks in an orange flavoured sauce accompanied by tasty vegetables and that was very pricey. But they were NZ Lamb Shanks so how could I resist? For my food and two very nice glasses of Italian red wine the bill was $19. That’s the most I’ve paid for a meal this trip and it was worth every cent (not that they have coins here!)

I heard the other day the temperature here reached 41 degrees and most days it is hot but it feels a little cooler than Cambodia. Last night there was a massive storm with shafts of lightning streaking across and brightening the dark night sky. The rain pounded the roof tops but even that hasn’t cooled the temperatures.

My hotel is very central and I can walk to the river, nearby markets (which are excellent), cafes shops and several attractions. It feels very safe and this central area is well lit at night too. The police presence is very noticeable. During the last few days of March there was a meeting of the heads of the Mekong Nations and so flash cars raced around the streets lead and tailed by legions of police. They refer to the six Mekong nations of China, Laos, Myanmar, Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand – but not the source - Tibet.

I walked to the Patuxai monument the other morning and climbed to the top. It’s said to resemble the Arc de Triomphe. I can just see this, the most prominent monument in the city, from my hotel window. It has four archways rather than the two of its Paris namesake and saying it resembles the Parisian landmark is a stretch. However, what I found funny is the story surrounding its construction in the 1960’s. The US gave the Lao’s the cement to build a new airport but, instead they built this monument! Oh…I’ve just read that taking photographs is banned from the top. What a silly idea - I’m glad I didn’t know about that little “rule”….besides….there was no-one else up there to see me take the attached photo.




I’m missing………….good company.

Taste sensation……….aside from the Lamb Shanks, today I had a warm mulberry pie from JoMa. I’ve never eaten mulberries before and in this pie they were delicious. The tasty generous filling looked rather like boysenberry and had a similar flavour.

I’m reading…………Consuming Passions by Freda Bright. It’s an easy read with the usual “can’t put down” themes of sex, betrayal, ambition and money. I love curling up with my book in the middle of the day to escape the heat in some air conditioned room.

Traveler’s Love…….Royal D – a beaut re-hydration mix with good things for the body.

Best Coffee….YES…I can report on excellent coffee – two of my favourites are the Scandinavian Bakery (they have their first payment of kip framed on the wall) and JoMa Bakery Café. Throughout my trip, I haven’t been able to get a long black though. Americano just doesn’t do it for me as I find the taste too insipid. So I take either cappuccino or espresso and so far in Laos they have been superb. Being organic and fair trade is a wonderful “feel good” bonus.

I’m loving……..the way each day slips by without too much effort and ever so pleasantly.

Idyllic Bamboo Island

I am at writing this from Sihanoukville which is a popular beach area a 4/5 hour bus ride from Phnom Pehn and close to the southern Vietnamese border.

Clearly it is too long since I’ve been out on a boat. I was off for a day trip to Bamboo Island (one of the many islands just off the coast here at Sihanoukville) and to board the boat I had to wade into waist deep water.

Already the boat is full when it’s my turn. I climb up the rusty metal ladder (boating friends I cannot even remember what this is called!) which is positioned very close to the bow. Once I am on the top rung a lovely man holds out his hand for me to grab so that he can help to pull me over the top. There’s nothing else to hold onto on the flat deck. The boat pitches awkwardly and rolls, my hand slips, I am thrown, from the top rung, rather ignominiously, into the water, back first! My back-pack and I are fully immersed. It must have been a very funny sight to all those on board already.

I am very concerned and as I hit the water and I’m sure several choice swear words escape my delicate lips. My back-pack holds many of my valuables – passport, money and camera!

My next boarding attempt goes smoothly and I quickly delve into my pack to check the damage. I am surprised to see that my camera is totally dry. Phew….the relief. Thank goodness for Kathmandu’s great gear, and my good sense, for buying the water proof pack. A chap sitting next to me on the narrow wooden planks, our seat for the day, checks out the zips and expresses surprise that they are water proof too.

It is only later that I realize the bottom of the pack is not waterproof and some of the things I packed first got wet, but nothing much that mattered and my camera and passport are dry!

We get underway and stop at an island for some of the passengers to snorkel and then we chug noisily to Bamboo Island. What an idyllic paradise this wee island is. There are a couple of places to stay and it looks divine. The beach is nice and long with squeaky white sand; the water very warm and inviting.

Lynda (a lady I had chanced upon the day before) invited me to join her on this trip and we spend a wonderful day together. Just as well we have each other for company as there are very few other English speaking people aboard. We meander through a bush track to reach the other side of the island and an even nicer beach and go for a lovely pre-lunch swim.

This is truly a wonderful place to go for the day or even better several nights.


Taste sensation…….lunch on Bamboo Island which is included in the $10 ticket price. (Breakfast was too!) I relish my lunch - a long crusty roll, marinated then barbequed barracuda and salad cut up like coleslaw. Superb. We sit on woven mats on the beach under the filtered shade of casurina trees. Life is great.

I’m enjoying………chatting to Lynda – another traveler from Canada. Meeting up with her is like talking to an old friend and aside from the day trip together, we have dined out too. Tomorrow we go our separate ways, she back to Thailand and me to Laos via Phnom Pehn.

I’m reading………..Lonely Planet Laos so I have some idea of where and what I want to do while I’m there. I’ve added Laos to my original plans so I’m playing catch up. I need the title/author of a great yarn I can read….any ideas anyone? Do let me know.

I’m missing…………not much at all………….

Bargain of the moment……Dinner last night. I had a glass of red wine (only my second glass the entire trip!), barbequed vegetables and fish (OK it WAS barracuda again). I ate this sitting on the second story of a restaurant having climbed up the rickety wooden stairs. The sea is at the bottom of the road, I have stimulating company and I watch an orange coloured full moon rise high in the sky. Price $4.75 but really the overall experience is priceless.

Best coffee…..yes….yes…..YES….I’ve found some here! Starfish Café who serve Bon coffee which is from Thailand. It is excellent coffee.

I’m surprised…….that I’ve been on the road now for about seven weeks without a backward glance or a single doubt about what I left behind (aside of course from the givens - family, friends and my pillow – oh and the certain knowledge of where I can get a great coffee).

Hua Hin Delivers on the Coffee

Finally Hua Hin delivers and I’ve found coffee worth a mention. Hooray!

I chanced upon a café on my first morning in Hua Hin and I found it in the unlikely named Darjeeling (of the tea variety) Unlimited.

The black coffee was espressed with care by the owner Alinnada Chaiyo. The coffee is rich, strong and with a thick crema. This is served in a cup with a handle that curves uniquely into the cup and then it is placed on a cute curved saucer – in immaculately clean white china. (see the photo) The coffee is grown in Chiang Mai and is 100% Arabica bean.

Darjeeling Unlimited has just a four tables and they concentrate on tea and coffee. By the way, Alinnada also makes an excellent pot of tea (this is her first love) which she serves in a large pretty teapot. A new business, the owner also imports and exports. Some of the goods are shown in the café and a range of jewelry, bags and other gifts are available for sale. The other photo is of Alinnada.

Then, just up the road is a café that looks rather like Starbucks. But that’s where the comparisons end. At Coffee World they serve superb coffee in large cups and their food would look at home in a Parisian café and tastes just as good.

Both Darjeeling Unlimited and Coffee World have fast internet access on great new computers (a bonus for a traveler) – the former is free to customers.

Bye Antipodeans...for now

Bye Antipodeans…for now….

It’s my last day in the antipodeans – for awhile anyway and I’m sitting at Sydney airport with a glass of champagne. Well…a girl’s has to treat herself once in awhile!

I’m excited and looking forward to the next part of my trip. Its been wonderful to catch up with friends in Sydney but the reality is that my trip starts now because from here on in I leave behind many comforts – the ease of communicating, being able to read the signs easily, social mores etc. But this stepping out into the unknown is the wondrous part of traveling.

I met some friends of Pam and Allan’s – who have traveled extensively throughout Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. They were extremely enthusiastic about all three countries and gave me many ideas. Several people have suggested I extend my itinerary to include Laos, this couple included. Right now anything is possible so watch this space.

I’m missing….. Aside from family, friends and my pillow – all a given really – I’m missing internet hotspots in cafes and the ease of access to the net from my home. I hadn’t quite realized how dependant I’d become on regular updates. As an “ideas person” my mind is always busy (something I want to calm down) and so it’s been very easy to fuel my “ideas appetite” with a flick of the internet search button. But once I get to Vietnam, most of the hotels offer free internet access – take note NZ and Australia!

The biggest surprise…..So far in planning my trip the biggest surprise (aside from the length of time it took to pack up my home and finalise the myriad of detail necessary to leave NZ for a couple of years) is that you can get a Cambodian visa online. It was so easy to do too and it arrived in my inbox within the day – very efficient. Who would have thought! http://evisa.mfaic.gov.kh/.

The biggest challenge…..I have always been a light traveler and I usually go away for a week or so with not much more than a day pack. But for this trip I’ve packed, repacked and repacked, each time eliminating things I thought were essential. What concerns me is that I have very few clothes left but my bags at 17kg are still too heavy. What have I packed? Perhaps I’ll do a list later. So aside from leaving behind really important baggage my other challenge has been negotiating rush hour Sydney commuter traffic as I transferred from Pam and Allan’s divine home on the water at Cammeray Marina (up 106 steps) via bus and train to my next stop.

Taste sensation…..the superb BBQ (pork chops, apple, vegetables) and salad cooked by Pam and Allan and eaten by the marina in the company of many yachties from around the world. Thankfully there was overhead cover because it rained non stop but the company was warm and friendly.

Favourite Coffee…..Well I AM a caffeine addict! None. The coffee’s been extremely disappointing.

Photo is.....The view from the deck at the marina house (Cammeray). Pam and Allan gave up their bedroom for me (how special) so that I could have this view upon waking. What a treat!