First Impressions of Vientiane

First Impressions of Vientiane
Laos

Well….maybe not quite my first impressions since I have already enjoyed several nights here but I’ve flicked back through my diary and I note that I loved this city from the minute I got here.

Those of you who have been closely following my journey will note that when I left New Zealand, I had no intention of visiting Laos. But, several favourable comments from people en route, and I decided to visit here. And....I am glad I have.

It is considerably more laid back than any of the other places I’ve visited on this trip. Even going through the usual entry requirements; obtaining a visa (easy) and going through customs (waved through even though I’d mislaid my customs declaration), jostling for position to pick up the bags off the conveyer belt (it was waiting for me) was the quickest I’ve ever experienced. I was in a taxi cruising towards the capital of Laos inside 50 minutes from touch down.

Even the tuk tuk drivers are relaxed. One driver politely calls out to ask if I want a ride, and when I say “no thanks” I get the feeling they’re relieved because it saves them the effort of rousing themselves from their stupor. They can then go back and snooze (some even have hammocks strung up in the back) or carry on chatting to their mates. If I say “no” to one, you can be sure his colleague next door hears my reply and he’s certainly not going to bother asking. It’s very refreshing.

The official currency is the kip and this is most frequently quoted but the price could also be in US dollars or Baht so I need to keep my wits about me. However, in my dealings, I have found them to be scrupulously honest. It’s a weird thing entering a withdrawal at the ATM for 700,000 kip (the maximum) but it converts to just under USD100 so it doesn’t last very long, especially considering the great shopping opportunities.

Good buys are clothes – tailor made or off the shelf, jade, silver and interesting jewelry, some of it superb. Silk here is beautiful and plentiful although it appears more expensive than Cambodia. Locally grown coffee is plentiful too. So far all of the coffee I’ve seen is organic, fair trade and very very tasty. It would do well in NZ.

I bought some things at the market the other day and after receiving my cash, the proprietor tapped the kip around several piles of goods she had for sale. She said that my sale was the first of the day and her actions would bring her good luck for the day. These same actions were repeated with my second and third transactions. Bargaining is quick and a satisfactory price is reached very quickly.

Beer is cheap at about $1 or sometimes less. I had one sitting on the bank of the Mekong, looking across at Thailand while I watched the dipping sun turn a glorious red. Actually, sitting on the bank isn't quite what I thought it would be as there is a huge mud flat and the water can be seen in the distance. I guess once the monsoon season comes it will be more spectacular from this side. My guide book says at one part, in southern Laos, the river is around 14kms wide in the wet season! Now to see that would be amazing.

Much of the food is cheap too. This morning’s breakfast was under $3 for an excellent cappuccino served in a mug, a warmed croissant and a fresh fruit salad.

The French influence is strong here and very noticeable in the food. A couple of nights ago I had Lamb Shanks in an orange flavoured sauce accompanied by tasty vegetables and that was very pricey. But they were NZ Lamb Shanks so how could I resist? For my food and two very nice glasses of Italian red wine the bill was $19. That’s the most I’ve paid for a meal this trip and it was worth every cent (not that they have coins here!)

I heard the other day the temperature here reached 41 degrees and most days it is hot but it feels a little cooler than Cambodia. Last night there was a massive storm with shafts of lightning streaking across and brightening the dark night sky. The rain pounded the roof tops but even that hasn’t cooled the temperatures.

My hotel is very central and I can walk to the river, nearby markets (which are excellent), cafes shops and several attractions. It feels very safe and this central area is well lit at night too. The police presence is very noticeable. During the last few days of March there was a meeting of the heads of the Mekong Nations and so flash cars raced around the streets lead and tailed by legions of police. They refer to the six Mekong nations of China, Laos, Myanmar, Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand – but not the source - Tibet.

I walked to the Patuxai monument the other morning and climbed to the top. It’s said to resemble the Arc de Triomphe. I can just see this, the most prominent monument in the city, from my hotel window. It has four archways rather than the two of its Paris namesake and saying it resembles the Parisian landmark is a stretch. However, what I found funny is the story surrounding its construction in the 1960’s. The US gave the Lao’s the cement to build a new airport but, instead they built this monument! Oh…I’ve just read that taking photographs is banned from the top. What a silly idea - I’m glad I didn’t know about that little “rule”….besides….there was no-one else up there to see me take the attached photo.




I’m missing………….good company.

Taste sensation……….aside from the Lamb Shanks, today I had a warm mulberry pie from JoMa. I’ve never eaten mulberries before and in this pie they were delicious. The tasty generous filling looked rather like boysenberry and had a similar flavour.

I’m reading…………Consuming Passions by Freda Bright. It’s an easy read with the usual “can’t put down” themes of sex, betrayal, ambition and money. I love curling up with my book in the middle of the day to escape the heat in some air conditioned room.

Traveler’s Love…….Royal D – a beaut re-hydration mix with good things for the body.

Best Coffee….YES…I can report on excellent coffee – two of my favourites are the Scandinavian Bakery (they have their first payment of kip framed on the wall) and JoMa Bakery Café. Throughout my trip, I haven’t been able to get a long black though. Americano just doesn’t do it for me as I find the taste too insipid. So I take either cappuccino or espresso and so far in Laos they have been superb. Being organic and fair trade is a wonderful “feel good” bonus.

I’m loving……..the way each day slips by without too much effort and ever so pleasantly.