It is very difficult to reconcile the way the normally polite, shy, relaxed Lao people transform into raving extroverted maniacs. But this dramatic change occurs during their New Year, in Luang Prabang at least.
Perhaps its because they're so reserved for 358 days of the year that they grasp hold of these few days to really let loose. They have fun and many visitors throw themselves into the festivities too.
This New Year period occurs in the middle of April and celebrates the sun moving from the zodiac sign of Pisces into Aries. Basically its about the old spirit departing and a new one arriving. For about seven days, they throw of water at people, obsensibly to cleanse the soul.
Kids, big and small trawl the streets or take up strategic corners and throw basins or buckets of water over people. Many people carry huge water guns, sometimes with reserve water tanks strapped onto their backs. Then they like to smear a white , black or red substance over people - or throw it at them (I never did find out what this was about). Walking the street, driving a car or riding a motor bike - all are fair targets! Once my scooter driver had to stop because white powder was thrown which covered the visor obscuring vision. It's madness.
Consequently people wander the streets soaking wet, smeared in a variety of colours and looking a complete wreck. Towards the end of each day, the young adults ride around town standing on the back of the trucks, music blaring dancing and cheering, sometimes sitting on bonnets and generally having a great time.
I hated it. To avoid the worst of it, I walked very early in the morning because the water bombing didn't begin until around 1000 or 1100. Anyway, this time was by far the coolest for wandering and very quiet. As the day advanced there was a greater chance of being drenched until it all stopped about 1800, only to begin the next day. Tiresome! And, this water bombing goes on for seven days the locals tell me.
But, outside of this New Year peiod, Luang Prabang (an old Lao royal capital) would be a fantastic place to spend time.
The township has no high rise which is a very refreshing change. It is an easy and pleasant place to just wander around. The town is surrounded by water and is like a peninsular with the Nam Khan River on one side of the "V" shape and the Mekong on the other. There is no shortage of special little bars, cafes and restaurants with water views. In the main street (no water views from here), many eating places are raised up three or four steps which is a nice elevation from which to watch the activities below.
The markets here are great too, especially the night market which is open from around 6pm until 11pm. The main street is closed to traffic and local women "set up shop" on the pavement and road laying out their home made (often) wares. The mountain women in particular are dressed beautifully. Their black hair swept up high on their head. They dress in a colourful wrap skirt and the most gorgeous linen (I think) crop top which is often in red or pink. The top has long sleeves and is trimmed in multi hued braid. They are a majestic sight. If only the tops they had for sale were also in these bright hues, I'd probably be loading up my suitcase! On second thoughts - perhaps it's just as well they are selling mainly muted colours for adults.
The workmanship is exquisite and the prices obsenely low. One of my favourite activities is sitting in a bar watching them set up. In true "rush rush - get everything done in a hurry" type of western mind set, I couldn't understand why it was taking them such a long time to unpack their bags of goods and lay them out on the mats. Then, after observing this slow, precise behaviour for a couple of nights I think I know why they patiently display their goods. Carefully unpacking and placing each item means that the movement or colour just might catch the eye of a passer-by and by doing that a possible sale!
Luang Prabang is another of those very special places. I saw lots of people holding umbrellas as the locals use them to shade themselves as they stroll and also while they ride around on their motor scooters. There are many temples here and many monks in bright orange robes stroll around the streets.
Although I said in my last post that I would probably stay longer here than orignally planned, to be honest, because of the water bombing, I couldn't wait to leave so booked an early flight out to Hanoi in Vietnam. Others on my plane had done the same. Having said that - I would definitely come back here, I'd just make sure it wasn't New Year.
Photos: Four this time - Monks, lamp shades, umbrellas, and the New Year celebrations
I'm missing..........all kinds of food from home - a plain sandwich with 5 grains, good coffee, meatloaf, a good steak - get the picture!
I'm reading.......Cuba and the Night by Pico Iyer. Its a novel, but reads more like a travel narrative as I felt as though I was in Cuba. I found it hard to put down as I reached through the pages to find out whether Lourdes managed to find a way to leave Socialist Cuba. A beguiling yarn.
I'm loving........having internet access in my room! Love it. Love it.
I'm surprised........to find that rugby is played in some schools. They are in need of resources - of course - old gear, help with administration, coaching etc. http://www.laorugby.com/.
Taste sensation.........Banana crepes - cooked and eaten al fresco.
Travelers like..........security locks on doors (not always a given here).
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