Monday, March 24, 2008

Idyllic Bamboo Island


I am at writing this from Sihanoukville which is a popular beach area a 4/5 hour bus ride from Phnom Pehn and close to the southern Vietnamese border.

Clearly it is too long since I’ve been out on a boat. I was off for a day trip to Bamboo Island (one of the many islands just off the coast here at Sihanoukville) and to board the boat I had to wade into waist deep water.

Already the boat is full when it’s my turn. I climb up the rusty metal ladder (boating friends I cannot even remember what this is called!) which is positioned very close to the bow. Once I am on the top rung a lovely man holds out his hand for me to grab so that he can help to pull me over the top. There’s nothing else to hold onto on the flat deck. The boat pitches awkwardly and rolls, my hand slips, I am thrown, from the top rung, rather ignominiously, into the water, back first! My back-pack and I are fully immersed. It must have been a very funny sight to all those on board already.

I am very concerned and as I hit the water and I’m sure several choice swear words escape my delicate lips. My back-pack holds many of my valuables – passport, money and camera!

My next boarding attempt goes smoothly and I quickly delve into my pack to check the damage. I am surprised to see that my camera is totally dry. Phew….the relief. Thank goodness for Kathmandu’s great gear, and my good sense, for buying the water proof pack. A chap sitting next to me on the narrow wooden planks, our seat for the day, checks out the zips and expresses surprise that they are water proof too.

It is only later that I realize the bottom of the pack is not waterproof and some of the things I packed first got wet, but nothing much that mattered and my camera and passport are dry!

We get underway and stop at an island for some of the passengers to snorkel and then we chug noisily to Bamboo Island. What an idyllic paradise this wee island is. There are a couple of places to stay and it looks divine. The beach is nice and long with squeaky white sand; the water very warm and inviting.

Lynda (a lady I had chanced upon the day before) invited me to join her on this trip and we spend a wonderful day together. Just as well we have each other for company as there are very few other English speaking people aboard. We meander through a bush track to reach the other side of the island and an even nicer beach and go for a lovely pre-lunch swim.

This is truly a wonderful place to go for the day or even better several nights.


Taste sensation…….lunch on Bamboo Island which is included in the $10 ticket price. (Breakfast was too!) I relish my lunch - a long crusty roll, marinated then barbequed barracuda and salad cut up like coleslaw. Superb. We sit on woven mats on the beach under the filtered shade of casurina trees. Life is great.

I’m enjoying………chatting to Lynda – another traveler from Canada. Meeting up with her is like talking to an old friend and aside from the day trip together, we have dined out too. Tomorrow we go our separate ways, she back to Thailand and me to Laos via Phnom Pehn.

I’m reading………..Lonely Planet Laos so I have some idea of where and what I want to do while I’m there. I’ve added Laos to my original plans so I’m playing catch up. I need the title/author of a great yarn I can read….any ideas anyone? Do let me know.

I’m missing…………not much at all………….

Bargain of the moment……Dinner last night. I had a glass of red wine (only my second glass the entire trip!), barbequed vegetables and fish (OK it WAS barracuda again). I ate this sitting on the second story of a restaurant having climbed up the rickety wooden stairs. The sea is at the bottom of the road, I have stimulating company and I watch an orange coloured full moon rise high in the sky. Price $4.75 but really the overall experience is priceless.

Best coffee…..yes….yes…..YES….I’ve found some here! Starfish CafĂ© who serve Bon coffee which is from Thailand. It is excellent coffee.

I’m surprised…….that I’ve been on the road now for about seven weeks without a backward glance or a single doubt about what I left behind (aside of course from the givens - family, friends and my pillow – oh and the certain knowledge of where I can get a great coffee).

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