The Valley of Vinales

According to the itinerary listed for the Vinales hop on hop off bus, after a big loop, my destination is supposed to be the last stop – the La Ermita Hotel where I plan to stay awhile to enjoy the view. But no! It’s the first stop and I’m in time for my morning coffee.

As I got off the bus I was pleased about the blissful peace and quiet. I’m keen to enjoy the magnificent view in peace and solitude and sup a hot, strong coffee.

But this is Cuba and despite the fact that I am the alone in the outside dining space the music begins to blare out; this time it’s a CD. Still the coffee is very good; the view of the valley stretching out below me superb and the hotel looks nice. I had planned to stay here but was swayed by a casa particulares in the valley of Vinales.
When I arrived in Vinales I was a little grumpy (a 7 hour bus ride that turned into 9 didn’t help) but my mood was softened by my handsome, charming and generous casa host offering me a chilled glass of papaya juice and with an arc of his arms said “my casa is your casa; my deck is your deck" etc. I instantly felt embarrassed and humbled.

The casa’s here are close together and many offer accommodation to “turista’s” – probably about ¾ of the houses have signs out. I was excited to meet another kiwi chap staying in the casa next door - the first New Zealander I’ve met on this trip. He comes from Remuera but was in Cuba on vacation from his volunteer teaching work in Costa Rica.

I enjoyed many hours out on the small deck in the front of my casa whiling away the time chatting with the Italians who also stayed two nights and watching the light change over the hills in the distance.
On my first night, replete after a superb dinner, I retired and despite the drone from the air conditioning unit, slept soundly to be woken at 0500 by a rooster in full and glorious voice!

I love the life here; where kids play on the streets; where a woman takes half an hour to pick a few flowers from one bush; where people start and finish their days chatting and watching street activities from their rocking chairs. Twice, as I was out strolling locals invited me to sit in the empty rocking chair beside them. It’s really nice and it makes me realize how frenetic our lives have become.

I’m missing…..the ease of conversing in English. Oh and cappuccino…..its espresso for me.

I’m loving….the gluggy reddish guava paste my hosts serve up for breakfast with fresh bread. Yum…yum.

I’m happy….that I made the trip west to Vinales.

I’m reading….an intriguing novel “Norwegian Wood” by Japanese author Murakami. It’s heavy but exquisitely crafted. I selected it in Trinidad where I had just 8 books to choose from. It’s a find.

I’ve decided….to add Las Terrazas to my itinerary which is about two hours from here. Some tourists I met in Trinidad recommended it and so I’m booked to stay at The Hotel Moka - an eco-tourism resort built in 1992. It’s unique to Cuba and has been a great success providing work opportunities for a small very poor community. I’m keen to check it out and will write more about it later.

Photos:

blue car in the main street.

Horse and cart taken from "my" rocking chair on the deck of my casa particulares. Yes another rocking chair!

The man across the road lighting up. Unlike food, cigars aren't rationed I believe.

The valley of Vinales. Vinales is about four hours west of Habana.