Saturday, August 29, 2009

Questions People Most Ask





















Questions people most ask me:


  1. Is it safe to travel to those countries? - meaning Cambodia, Laos, and Cuba etc - I found them safer than I thought. But I try not to take undue risks. Sometimes I’ve been caught out though, like my experience on Tonle Sap Lake in Cambodia and written about here. But that experience is, by far, in the minority.


  2. Do you get lonely? Rarely. But, I hasten to add, I do like my own company. If I do feel like conversation, there’s always somebody close by for a chat. Other travelers love to chat and so too do the locals (language permitting). Sometimes the encounters with the locals are very special as in Cambodia (see the hatmaker article), and see the photo below where people in Ninh Binh (Vietnam) lined up for me to take photos of their children. And then there’s skype!


  3. What place do you like the most? Phew! That’s almost impossible for me to answer – I could break it up into categories.

i. The best shopping – Mexico City or the markets in Vientiane;
ii. Memorable ruins – Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples are a stand-out, particularly the isolated temples;
iii. Most memorable sunset – supping champagne on the after deck of friends yacht whilst anchored off a gorgeous deserted island in New Caledonia;
iv. Best meal – a Vietnamese hotpot shared with a Singaporean mother and adult daughter in the mountains of Sapa;
v. Best beer – a cold beerlao consumed while watching the sun go down over the Mekong River;
vi. Best coffee, but overall the divine taste of fair trade coffee supped in Laos is excellent;
vii. Best beach – so many.

So many great memories and, one hopes, more to come.

Photos - all Vietnam : Shopping for lanterns in Hoi An

My tailor in Hoi An (just before the accident)

Parents lined their kids up for me to take photos of them in Ninh Binh

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Cuba – Top Tips



  • Cuba – Top Tips

    To vacation in Cuba is like going no-where else because of the time warp the country has been in for the past half century.

    I thought the country was beguiling with interesting (and interested) people and I left the country with rich and warm memories.

    I’ve jotted down a few of my observations and experiences relating to money, safety, transport, accommodation, (food I’ve covered in earlier articles), what extras to take, the internet and good buys.

    Some tips for would be visitors to Cuba:

    Money:

    Cuba has two currencies: one for tourists and one for locals. Tourists have to use the CUC or Cuban Convertible Peso which can only be purchased in Cuba. The locals use pesos.

    Leave your home country with Euro or Canadian Dollars in cash and/or some in traveler’s cheques. Because I was going to be in Cuba for nearly a month, for the first time ever I traveled with several thousand (this time Euro) in cash. I travel with a Travelex card loaded with money http://www.cashpassport.com.au/ but I couldn’t find a machine to accept it.

    I was advised to take small denominations but I found that wasn’t necessary as the banks could change larger denominations.

    Credit cards work at a few machines (if you can find them). When I used my Australian issued credit card the amount in CUC was converted to US Dollars (which has a 10% commission), then into Australian dollars – ouch – it was an expensive exercise.

    Keep lots of small change for tips and to give away. Wages are incredibly low and a tip of 1CUC (approximately $1.30 AU) will help a lot. Bathroom ladies are prevalent and they have a saucer for small change too.

    Safety:

    As a solo female traveler I am often asked about the safety of a place. Thankfully, I have no horror stories to report, but locals warned me on numerous occasions to take care of my keys, money, hat, bag, camera etc. In old Habana, and to a lesser extent Trinidad, security is very obvious and this helps to keep the city safe.

    Local Transport:

    Road transportation between the main destinations is not difficult, but it is rather expensive, when compared to similar economies like Cambodia and Laos.

    Bus companies Transtur and Viazul operate air conditioned buses and they are reliable and comfortable. Transtur often operates door to door – usually hotel to hotel but when I stayed in a Vinales the bus driver took some trouble to find and drop me off at my casa! Reservations can be made through various tour agencies or directly with the companies.

    In Habana, Vinales and Varadero a hop on hop off bus operates. You pay when you get on the first time and its cheap (relative to other travel in Cuba) and an excellent way to see the country.

    Accommodation:

    Most of the time I stayed in Casa Particulares – (homes of the locals). I recommend looking around for one that suits. I paid between 25-30CUC per night for a very clean private room, air conditioning and attached bathroom with hot water.

    For meals at Casas I typically paid 3CUC for breakfasts and 6CUC for dinners. The food provided by my Casa hosts varied and the servings overly generous. Always, they tried to get food I wanted to eat.

    My Casa hosts didn’t speak English very well and so my Spanish/English dictionary was rather dog-eared by the end of my trip. It’s very helpful if you know some of the language.

    My Casa host would make a booking with their friends at my next destination. Although, in typical Cuban fashion, twice on arrival the promised room was not available, they always found another room for me somewhere else.

    Make Sure You Pack:
  • Your sense of humour.

  • Soap (to use as it’s not always offered), small packets of tissues, hand wash (but see my comments in my earlier article), plenty of reading material (books in English are attainable but the supply is very limited), a good conversion plug, a good Spanish/English dictionary and…

  • Snacks, snacks and more snacks. I was very pleased I’d stocked up with lots of nuts, dried fruit, crackers, chocolate, biscuits etc. Food is rationed here and the supplies are limited.

  • I also recommend you pack things to give away. I took supplies of chewing gum and pens and wished I’d taken a lot more as they were very gratefully received. I also took hair decorations and coloured felt pens. You will be asked for things e.g. adults asked me for reading books for their children, food, my tee shirts etc.

Internet:

The internet is available but it's slow and expensive and as there are few machines there's a wait – sometimes well over one hour.

In Habana the best places to access the internet is at the hotels where you buy a card, typically for half an hour or one hour. Although the card looks universal, I found that the cards were unique to each establishment meaning any remaining credit couldn’t be used elsewhere.

Sometimes the USB ports worked but many times not.

Good Buys:

Cigars, rum and in some places tee shirts.
Crochet work in Trinidad is excellent and inexpensive in the markets.
Art presented by the artists at the outdoor market off Plaza de Armas is excellent. Negotiation is possible. Great art is also available from Ofelia ORoberto, 19 The Malecon in Habana. Five artists share this space. There are many more small shops selling art. Ensure you have an export certificate for it. They are available from the shop or the agency.
Locally grown organic coffee is excellent and inexpensive.


If you are thinking about going to Cuba, I urge you to do it soon and I hope that you enjoy it as much as I did. If I can help further, please leave me a message and I will be sure to reply. If you have been there, and have a tip to share, feel free to send a message for others to read.

Photo: the art market close to Plaza de Armas

Saturday, August 8, 2009

A Romantic Coffee Story








Some time ago I promised a story about coffee. It’s taken awhile but here it is. It’s a sweet tale from those incurable Cuban romantics.

To win the hand of the woman who had captured his heart, a besotted young man had to present an unusual gift to the father of his beloved.

For three years, he sought something truly special to gift his prospective father-in-law. By chance he came upon a magnificent gift; the aromatic black drink of coffee. His father in law was most impressed with the gift and plans were made for a lavish wedding with many influential guests…..(I guess…the story is silent on this point so I have taken writers license!)

From then on the world (and I) discovered the pleasures of savoring the aroma and taste of a cup of coffee.

The Habanan Escorial Café located on the edge of Plaza la Vieja (I’ve written about this world heritage site earlier) has 60 different types of coffee all made from beans grown in the Escambray Mountains in central Cuba. The beans are roasted on the premises. Some choices here include coffee laced with whiskey, cinnamon and cream; Miss Ochun (coffee with banana liqueur and cream); Cupido (coffee with tangerine liqueur) and so on.

This is THE spot for coffee connoisseurs without doubt. It’s excellent coffee and a good people watching spot in a superb location. As I sit I surprise myself by enjoying that all pervading smoke wafting around me from thick, hand rolled Cuban cigars. Where else but in Cuba? Aah the life of a traveler.

Photos:
Coffee Escorial Café - note the cigar options available on the menu!
Cappuccino in Mexico. It looks pretty but I gave up after ordering two since they were very milky and had almost no coffee flavour.
A coffee (and a luscious buttery croissant!) from the New Caledonia market at the start of this trip.