Thursday, June 18, 2009

Quaint, Cruisey Trinidad











I felt invigorated to be here, from the moment my air-conditioned bus bumped and maneuvered its way into town along the narrow quaint cobbled streets of Trinidad.

Once again I’ve chosen to stay at a casa and my hosts are wonderful. They speak little English. In fact I think the language imbalance is more in my favour than theirs so there’s lots of gesturing and smiles, and even more unsaid. There’s much I want to ask but the language barrier does not permit that. I had planned to be here three nights but instantly extended it to five and Bianca’s face lit up when I asked to stay longer. How nice!

The food is outstanding here too and they are keen to please, but don’t invade my privacy. Here are the contact details – Bianca Del Pino Sandoval, 112 Francisco Peterssen Phone (53) (01) (41) 992430. The family have lived in this home since 1850!

Ah….as I read all of the details on the card, it notes that there is hot and cold water 24 hours. Hmmm now I wonder why I’ve been having cold showers. Could it be that I didn’t turn on the tap marked “C” which in English stands for cold but here its caliente which means hot? Fria is cold. Or is it that I didn’t run the water for long enough? In Habana I was advised to run the tap for between 1 and 30 minutes to get the hot water through.

But I digress. My room is large, light, airy and is comfortable. It’s exceptionally charming in a rustic way. I have frilly shiny pink satin bedspreads topped with red satin heart shaped cushions. Its lovely to be here and the home is scrupulously clean and very central to everything here in Trinidad.

On my first night here I slept for 12 hours straight. In the early morning, in that delicious state, as I drifted in and out of sleep I was vaguely aware of alien sounds outside. It was a surreal experience. I heard roosters crowing, children calling cheerfully to one another, a man shouting “paper, paper” as he wandered down the street selling door to door, and the echo of horse’s hooves as they clip clopped down the ancient cobbled streets. Not for the first time whilst journeying, as I awakened to welcome a new day, I was ever so slightly disoriented by these unusual sounds.

Every house here it seems, and this one is no exception, has a number of rocking chairs, in their lounges, on decks and in the enclosed courtyards. They get a lot of use too. I know this because I can see through the houses to the courtyards out the back through the white (usually) wrought iron bars used so they can keep doors and windows open to any breeze yet have some security. Locals stand at the bars, or sit in their rocking chairs and watch the outside activity, or stop awhile for a neighbourly chat.

I whiled away many hours on “my” balcony in the wrought iron rocking chair. The balcony opens off my room via three sets of very tall double doors and is “the spot” for catching a breeze as it wafts by.

On my first outing, I happened across a nice café; Cafeteria Las Begonis which has long opening hours so it was good for my mid morning coffee (excellent) and also later in the day for a bottle of the very good local brew (Cristal) to cool down.

Horse and cart is by far the most prevalent form of transport here and, out on the street, it takes awhile to get used to the smell. Having said that, I’ve seen no dung, so its obviously cleaned up quickly. The locals are constantly cleaning street frontages and courtyards. Many horses are painfully thin and they stand patiently waiting for their owners to load up the cart with another consignment. There are bikes and some cars too but not in the same numbers.

I’ve was contented staying at that casa and enjoyed just wandering the streets and observing. This town, sandwiched between the Sierra del Escambray mountains and the Caribbean .....14 kms away.....is a special spot.

I’m loving…..
different sights and sounds in this laid back town.

I’m enjoying….
not wearing a watch.

Best coffee…
EVERYWHERE. Except for Varadero the coffee’s been excellent.

I’m reading….
a lighthearted read…… “Always the Bridesmaid” by Sarah Webb. It made me laugh and lives up to its dust cover blurb which states it’s an excellent book to take on holiday. After reading it I was able to trade the book with a local. ALWAYS a bonus when on the road and like to read.


Photos....All Trinidad and of course my rocker......

No comments: