Siem Reap is a booming town, but it presents a little like the wild-west towns of old. Instead of gun slingers waging battles and duels, the attack and stand-off positions are assumed by vehicles. The bigger the motor the more power is wielded and with a toot (or two or three depending upon the drivers intentions or urgency) the smaller motors or motor less scatter into the dusty berm.
In town there are pavements but very often café’s reach across the area covering it. Or, vehicles park right on the pavement leaving no option for a pedestrian; they must take their chances by walking on the road. I notice that I’ve developed a kind of arrogance that I have just as much right to be on the road as the 2 and 4 wheeled variety.
But it’s tricky as I have little idea of the road rules. It is right hand drive here. But it seems that when you turn a corner, (say turning left the vehicle moves from the right-hand side over to the left to turn) you can continue driving on the opposite side until its safe to go back to the correct side. As a consequence, I am so very careful to check, double check, triple check before putting my tootsies onto the street. Night travel – headlights it seems are optional! Of course many of the streets, including where my hotel is located, are dirt and wide enough for one vehicle but its not one way, so can you imagine big tourist buses, along with tuk tuks, bikes, scooter and people all vying for space.
Siem Reap has a flourishing café scene serving all types of cuisine – western, Cambodian Khmer (I haven’t yet established the difference but the latter proudly proclaim their pedigree), Thai, French etc. For a time (1864) the French took over and so there’s a noticeable French influence in the food and in the beautiful atmospheric old buildings. I can eat a delicious and nutritious meal for about $2 or $3 but add another $2 for a beer or a freshly squeezed juice in many places.
I’m writing the draft for this item whilst sitting at an outside table at the Blue Pumpkin Café. They make the most divine flakey croissants, breads, cakes and other pastries. It’s a popular spot. Generally, they really try hard when it comes to service and are most pleasant but are frequently very slow and inattentive. If the bar, cafe or shop has a TV going I am sure you could dance on the table top and the waiting staff wouldn't notice! But, hey, all of this tourism stuff is relatively new.
The country has just celebrated 2 million visitors for the 2007 year which is up 20% on 2006. South Koreans lead the charge with 16.4%, then Japanese 8%, USA 6.8%. The 2010 estimate is 3.35 million. The tourism sector contributes 15.8% of total employment.
They mention “flash packers” (I like that term) – of which I am one! Those tourists taking a career break or extended time out but want some comfort and at $15 a night (this is mid range) for my hotel I’m getting that comfort. This might be a third world country but the accommodation is very nice and what’s more I have a choice of 69 television channels in my room. Channel surfers eat your heart out!
The local newspaper reports concern about money not being absorbed locally and they mention the Korean and Japanese visitors as a particular concern because they do their purchasing at souvenir shops owned by their countrymen. They also patronize their own restaurants and hotels. Gosh, I say, why bother traveling if you are going to do that. But we have the same situation with various national groups in NZ don’t we?
In fact two days before I picked up the local newspaper with these statistics I had first hand knowledge of this.
I was visiting a temple and stopped to buy a cold drink. The temple vendors (aged between 8 and 20) invited me to sit with them and for a short time they stopped their sales pitch and also rested a moment or two and we chatted. It was a lovely moment. They lamented the fact that these two national groups never bought from them. They rely upon this income so it’s a big problem. I wonder if these rather wealthy groups appreciate the impact of their purchasing decisions where it can mean the difference between these kids and/or their families eating that day or not? According to Lonely Planet just 10% of the ticket price goes back to the restoration of the temples. Of the balance 75% goes to the government and 15% goes to the petroleum company Sokimex who control the administration and access to the temples. But that’s a separate and very complex issue.
The currency is also very interesting. The official currency is the United States Dollar. But, they also have the riel (KHR). When I arrived I changed $100 into KHR and in exchange received brand new notes piled about ½ inch high!
There are no coins here so if say, I buy a slice of yummy coconut cake, that costs 75c, I hand over USD1 and get back 1000KHR in change. At the end of the day I need to sort my wallet and separate the two currencies again. Everything is so so cheap that I still haven’t used up the money I changed at the airport 7 days ago – plus the fact that given the choice everyone wants USD.
The sharp vendors out at the temples try to use currency for their gain and, I suspect, take advantage of visitor confusion. I chose a bag and after some bargaining we agreed on a price of $7. I elect not to bargain too hard because these are very poor people but the “sport” of haggling is a must, its fun and it is definitely expected. After agreeing the price for the bag, my vendor then asks me to pay in baht (Thai currency). “How much will that be?” I ask without any intention of paying in baht anyway as I have it safely tucked away in my money belt and I’m not about to dip into it here.
She replies very quickly, a price in baht which I mentally convert and it’s $21! “No way – that’s far too high a price” I say. She laughs too and tries again. “Ok,ok, you pay me in KHR and again names an amount that converts again much closer to $20.
“I think I’ll pay you in USD” I say. She’s happy, has had some sport for the day, received a good price and I’m very happy with my purchase.
I’m enjoying……the flexibility of having no fixed itinerary and the wonderful people.
I’m reading……. the local newspapers and Celestial Temples of the Khmer Empire.
I’m missing…..steak and salad and coffee…coffee….coffee…… The coffee here is well…pretty yukky actually. I’m disappointed – of course.
I’m surprised…..that I’m not missing my evening glass of red wine – actually I haven’t even thought about it. I’m also surprised at how easy it is to travel here. English is very widely spoken and in most places around here very well.
I’m loving…..living the dream – my dream – also of visiting Angkor Wat and the other temples. I really like it here and have just extended my time.
Next .......I’ll try to put an article about the amazingly beautiful and extensive temples. I need to let a little time pass so that I can try to absorb what I’ve seen and come to grips with it so that I can write coherently about it. They are truly wonderful and it’s been/is quite a moving and spiritual experience. I didn’t expect that at all.
In town there are pavements but very often café’s reach across the area covering it. Or, vehicles park right on the pavement leaving no option for a pedestrian; they must take their chances by walking on the road. I notice that I’ve developed a kind of arrogance that I have just as much right to be on the road as the 2 and 4 wheeled variety.
But it’s tricky as I have little idea of the road rules. It is right hand drive here. But it seems that when you turn a corner, (say turning left the vehicle moves from the right-hand side over to the left to turn) you can continue driving on the opposite side until its safe to go back to the correct side. As a consequence, I am so very careful to check, double check, triple check before putting my tootsies onto the street. Night travel – headlights it seems are optional! Of course many of the streets, including where my hotel is located, are dirt and wide enough for one vehicle but its not one way, so can you imagine big tourist buses, along with tuk tuks, bikes, scooter and people all vying for space.
Siem Reap has a flourishing café scene serving all types of cuisine – western, Cambodian Khmer (I haven’t yet established the difference but the latter proudly proclaim their pedigree), Thai, French etc. For a time (1864) the French took over and so there’s a noticeable French influence in the food and in the beautiful atmospheric old buildings. I can eat a delicious and nutritious meal for about $2 or $3 but add another $2 for a beer or a freshly squeezed juice in many places.
I’m writing the draft for this item whilst sitting at an outside table at the Blue Pumpkin Café. They make the most divine flakey croissants, breads, cakes and other pastries. It’s a popular spot. Generally, they really try hard when it comes to service and are most pleasant but are frequently very slow and inattentive. If the bar, cafe or shop has a TV going I am sure you could dance on the table top and the waiting staff wouldn't notice! But, hey, all of this tourism stuff is relatively new.
The country has just celebrated 2 million visitors for the 2007 year which is up 20% on 2006. South Koreans lead the charge with 16.4%, then Japanese 8%, USA 6.8%. The 2010 estimate is 3.35 million. The tourism sector contributes 15.8% of total employment.
They mention “flash packers” (I like that term) – of which I am one! Those tourists taking a career break or extended time out but want some comfort and at $15 a night (this is mid range) for my hotel I’m getting that comfort. This might be a third world country but the accommodation is very nice and what’s more I have a choice of 69 television channels in my room. Channel surfers eat your heart out!
The local newspaper reports concern about money not being absorbed locally and they mention the Korean and Japanese visitors as a particular concern because they do their purchasing at souvenir shops owned by their countrymen. They also patronize their own restaurants and hotels. Gosh, I say, why bother traveling if you are going to do that. But we have the same situation with various national groups in NZ don’t we?
In fact two days before I picked up the local newspaper with these statistics I had first hand knowledge of this.
I was visiting a temple and stopped to buy a cold drink. The temple vendors (aged between 8 and 20) invited me to sit with them and for a short time they stopped their sales pitch and also rested a moment or two and we chatted. It was a lovely moment. They lamented the fact that these two national groups never bought from them. They rely upon this income so it’s a big problem. I wonder if these rather wealthy groups appreciate the impact of their purchasing decisions where it can mean the difference between these kids and/or their families eating that day or not? According to Lonely Planet just 10% of the ticket price goes back to the restoration of the temples. Of the balance 75% goes to the government and 15% goes to the petroleum company Sokimex who control the administration and access to the temples. But that’s a separate and very complex issue.
The currency is also very interesting. The official currency is the United States Dollar. But, they also have the riel (KHR). When I arrived I changed $100 into KHR and in exchange received brand new notes piled about ½ inch high!
There are no coins here so if say, I buy a slice of yummy coconut cake, that costs 75c, I hand over USD1 and get back 1000KHR in change. At the end of the day I need to sort my wallet and separate the two currencies again. Everything is so so cheap that I still haven’t used up the money I changed at the airport 7 days ago – plus the fact that given the choice everyone wants USD.
The sharp vendors out at the temples try to use currency for their gain and, I suspect, take advantage of visitor confusion. I chose a bag and after some bargaining we agreed on a price of $7. I elect not to bargain too hard because these are very poor people but the “sport” of haggling is a must, its fun and it is definitely expected. After agreeing the price for the bag, my vendor then asks me to pay in baht (Thai currency). “How much will that be?” I ask without any intention of paying in baht anyway as I have it safely tucked away in my money belt and I’m not about to dip into it here.
She replies very quickly, a price in baht which I mentally convert and it’s $21! “No way – that’s far too high a price” I say. She laughs too and tries again. “Ok,ok, you pay me in KHR and again names an amount that converts again much closer to $20.
“I think I’ll pay you in USD” I say. She’s happy, has had some sport for the day, received a good price and I’m very happy with my purchase.
I’m enjoying……the flexibility of having no fixed itinerary and the wonderful people.
I’m reading……. the local newspapers and Celestial Temples of the Khmer Empire.
I’m missing…..steak and salad and coffee…coffee….coffee…… The coffee here is well…pretty yukky actually. I’m disappointed – of course.
I’m surprised…..that I’m not missing my evening glass of red wine – actually I haven’t even thought about it. I’m also surprised at how easy it is to travel here. English is very widely spoken and in most places around here very well.
I’m loving…..living the dream – my dream – also of visiting Angkor Wat and the other temples. I really like it here and have just extended my time.
Next .......I’ll try to put an article about the amazingly beautiful and extensive temples. I need to let a little time pass so that I can try to absorb what I’ve seen and come to grips with it so that I can write coherently about it. They are truly wonderful and it’s been/is quite a moving and spiritual experience. I didn’t expect that at all.
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