Before reading this, I recommend you read The Temples of Angkor Part I.
The air is smoky on the long straight road as I travel, sitting like a queen in the back of my tuk tuk heading towards Angkor and the temples. Even though it is before sunrise, the road is busy and the exhaust fumes give the cool morning air a blue tinge. Everyone is in a hurry, keen to get into a position they believe will give them the best sunrise view.
My first view of Angkor Wat was the day before and it was surreal. Yet, it held an air of familiarity, probably because of the numerous photographs I’d seen of this special place. What surprised me though wasn’t seeing Angkor Wat, it was the huge moat surrounding the outside wall and also the magnitude of the complex. Nothing, nothing nothing could have prepared me for that. It is truly a magnificent sight and even more so when I stop to consider the time of construction - between 1113 and 1150.
After a day or two of visiting the temples, I sit in the back of the tuk tuk and I am ticking the ruins off like old friends. By the time I leave, I’ve traversed the circuit many times now; Te Keo, the old bridge, the ruins of Chau Say Tevoda, through the magnificient old Victory Gate then the road is straight via an avenue of trees until my driver stops at the “T” junction. In front of me, the massive terrace of elephants wall greets me and it extends out to the left and right. We turn left here and if I crane my neck a little I can see the complex of Angkor Thom with Baphuon Temple peeking out behind the wall and then the weirdest temple of them all – Bayon.
The distance between Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat is several kilometers. But before I reach this Angkor Wat, I squeeze through the very narrow opening of the South gate, go past the giant heads (54 gods on one side and 54 demons on the other) guarding the temples. Finally in another kilometer I get my last view of the day - Angkor Wat and its protective moat before I head for my home base in Siem Reap.
Phew…..this is an impressive loop and one I enjoy each trip.
Sometimes when I visit the temples they are over – run with visitors. I went to Ta Prohm for a second visit but as there were too many people I left quickly surprising my waiting tuk tuk driver. It was difficult to move through the narrow corridors, and certainly no chance of getting the photos I wanted because there were too many people in the frame. Thankfully on an earlier visit there were fewer people and I got some great photos showing the power of the jungle as it takes over. Here (more so than any other temple) trees have literally grown on the stones and their roots entwined in the stones so that it looks as though they form part of the design. Of course they are not and these massive trees and roots are putting much pressure on the walls causing them to buckle and collapse.
High up, I see, clinging to one of the lateral branches, a huge bees nest just hanging in mid air like a huge upside down “U”. From this distance it looks like a beautiful work of art – so smooth and perfect in its form and function.
Occasionally, at the temples, I am the only person in a large area, room or hallway. When that happens, often I stop and sit on the age old stones and try, without the “noise” created by other people, to contemplate what it would have been like to have lived all these centuries ago. But I find this excessively difficult. Once I am sitting though, I see all sorts of details I missed when standing and these observations constantly surprises me.
My Lonely Planet Guide suggests that at lunch time, when the visitors on tour buses stop to eat, is a good time to get some quiet space. It’s true! I’m surprised it worked and I have a lovely time. But it is rather hot, wandering around Angkor Wat at this time of day. It is also rather eerie.
The magnificent and delicately carved Banteay Srei (a fascinating hour long ride through villages and the countryside from Siem Reap) is the most roped off temple I visited. Still, it’s possible to get up close and despite signs not to touch the detailed bas relief people still do.
Other temples too have restrictions – notably the bas relief walls of Angkor Wat. The other restrictions are where restoration work is being undertaken.
Some of the temple sites are in a very precarious state of ruin and yet they are still open for tourists to walk under partially collapsed doorways, crawl over piles of rocks or clamor up extremely steep stairways. Sometimes there are signs to say “don’t climb” a particular pile of rubble, but these are much less frequently placed than is justified.
There are no hand rails or barriers either and the drop off (onto stones) from some parts is several metres.
On my first visit to a site, I was amazed at the narrowness of the stairway treads. Frequently to get any kind of foothold, I have to turn my foot sideways to progress and even then my foot only just fit. The risers were perhaps 15 inches in height, so it is hard work trying to climb up. The stairways are the path to heaven. According to early beliefs, the transition between earth and heaven is not meant to be easy hence the steepness. It also creates an optical illusion that the temple is much higher than it is in reality. I surprised myself by climbing up many and the view was, at times, magnificent. Other times, I sat at the bottom and enjoyed young tourists racing to the top.
For today’s tourists, in some places they’ve constructed wooden stairways over the old stone steps, and they have even treads and have removed some of the steepness. Still they are steep.
These edifices were built as temples to the gods. The first temples were for Hindu gods. The latter ones built under Jayavarman VII were dedicated to Buddhism when he declared it to be the national religion. They are full of symbolism and the beautifully detailed carvings have left a graphic reminder of the beliefs during this period. Some also give an insight into the lifestyle. Bas relief detail show acrobats, people drawing water and playing chess, winning battles, losing life to name a few scenes.
The temples range from the comparatively basic and unadorned Ta Keo to the classically beautiful temple of Angkor Wat with 600 metres of bas relief and 2000 apsaras, particularly around the lower of its three levels. Then there is the stunningly beautiful and detailed in outlying Banteay Srei (36 kms from Siem Reap) to the out and out weird. I went to Banteay Srei twice, as much for the lovely ride in the countryside as to revisit the site. However, it is definitely worth a second visit as I saw different aspects of its magnificence.
The Bayon temple takes the prize for the weird. It’s a temple (part of the extensive Angkor Thom complex) built by the most prolific builder of all the kings – Jayavarman VII.
Bayon is a testament to his ego and absolute creative genius. This temple has 54 gothic towers displaying 216 smiling (rather coldly) faces of Avalokitesvara. This is the Mahayana Buddhist ideal of compassion, who chooses not to pass into Nirvana but help bring enlightenment to others. But these all seeing heads bear a resemblance to King Jayavarman! How’s that for ego? No matter where I turn many faces are looking down on me. It’s weird. This is one of the many temples that on first viewing looks just like a pile of old stones but once I had spent time there more and more of the detail unfolded.
Sometimes inscriptions were etched into the stones and these detail the number of people the temple supported, an inventory of staff and jewels held in the libraries.
Much detail has been lost though because many records were written on palm leaves and these have long since disintegrated.
Historians have been able to reconstruct the history with the assistance of an account left by a Chinese emissary – Chou Ta Kuan who spent a year at Angkor in the later 13th century. He notes that some of the spires were covered in gold. None of that remains today, but what a spectacle that would have made.
It is truly amazing but exhausting to visit these temples. I spent 5 days there and was able to visit all of the main temples. I also went to another small temple (Ta Nei) which required a walk of one and half kilometers to reach it. It was a treat to be there because aside from my driver I was the only person there – oh and a guard sleeping. There’s always a guard these days because there has been so much looting.
Actually with the projected growth for the area, I cannot imagine what it will be like to visit these wonderful ruins with double the number of visitors. Currently visitors to Cambodia number 2 million but receipts for the ruins around Siem Reap numbers 1.1 million (there is some suggestion in the media that these figures are understated!) Nor can I imagine that we will continue to be allowed almost unrestricted access to climb over, sit and touch these ancient ruins. However, I feel very fortunate that I have had some time here.
Photos: Apsara at Banteay Srei, Bees nest at Ta Prohm and impact of trees at Ta Prohm
The air is smoky on the long straight road as I travel, sitting like a queen in the back of my tuk tuk heading towards Angkor and the temples. Even though it is before sunrise, the road is busy and the exhaust fumes give the cool morning air a blue tinge. Everyone is in a hurry, keen to get into a position they believe will give them the best sunrise view.
My first view of Angkor Wat was the day before and it was surreal. Yet, it held an air of familiarity, probably because of the numerous photographs I’d seen of this special place. What surprised me though wasn’t seeing Angkor Wat, it was the huge moat surrounding the outside wall and also the magnitude of the complex. Nothing, nothing nothing could have prepared me for that. It is truly a magnificent sight and even more so when I stop to consider the time of construction - between 1113 and 1150.
After a day or two of visiting the temples, I sit in the back of the tuk tuk and I am ticking the ruins off like old friends. By the time I leave, I’ve traversed the circuit many times now; Te Keo, the old bridge, the ruins of Chau Say Tevoda, through the magnificient old Victory Gate then the road is straight via an avenue of trees until my driver stops at the “T” junction. In front of me, the massive terrace of elephants wall greets me and it extends out to the left and right. We turn left here and if I crane my neck a little I can see the complex of Angkor Thom with Baphuon Temple peeking out behind the wall and then the weirdest temple of them all – Bayon.
The distance between Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat is several kilometers. But before I reach this Angkor Wat, I squeeze through the very narrow opening of the South gate, go past the giant heads (54 gods on one side and 54 demons on the other) guarding the temples. Finally in another kilometer I get my last view of the day - Angkor Wat and its protective moat before I head for my home base in Siem Reap.
Phew…..this is an impressive loop and one I enjoy each trip.
Sometimes when I visit the temples they are over – run with visitors. I went to Ta Prohm for a second visit but as there were too many people I left quickly surprising my waiting tuk tuk driver. It was difficult to move through the narrow corridors, and certainly no chance of getting the photos I wanted because there were too many people in the frame. Thankfully on an earlier visit there were fewer people and I got some great photos showing the power of the jungle as it takes over. Here (more so than any other temple) trees have literally grown on the stones and their roots entwined in the stones so that it looks as though they form part of the design. Of course they are not and these massive trees and roots are putting much pressure on the walls causing them to buckle and collapse.
High up, I see, clinging to one of the lateral branches, a huge bees nest just hanging in mid air like a huge upside down “U”. From this distance it looks like a beautiful work of art – so smooth and perfect in its form and function.
Occasionally, at the temples, I am the only person in a large area, room or hallway. When that happens, often I stop and sit on the age old stones and try, without the “noise” created by other people, to contemplate what it would have been like to have lived all these centuries ago. But I find this excessively difficult. Once I am sitting though, I see all sorts of details I missed when standing and these observations constantly surprises me.
My Lonely Planet Guide suggests that at lunch time, when the visitors on tour buses stop to eat, is a good time to get some quiet space. It’s true! I’m surprised it worked and I have a lovely time. But it is rather hot, wandering around Angkor Wat at this time of day. It is also rather eerie.
The magnificent and delicately carved Banteay Srei (a fascinating hour long ride through villages and the countryside from Siem Reap) is the most roped off temple I visited. Still, it’s possible to get up close and despite signs not to touch the detailed bas relief people still do.
Other temples too have restrictions – notably the bas relief walls of Angkor Wat. The other restrictions are where restoration work is being undertaken.
Some of the temple sites are in a very precarious state of ruin and yet they are still open for tourists to walk under partially collapsed doorways, crawl over piles of rocks or clamor up extremely steep stairways. Sometimes there are signs to say “don’t climb” a particular pile of rubble, but these are much less frequently placed than is justified.
There are no hand rails or barriers either and the drop off (onto stones) from some parts is several metres.
On my first visit to a site, I was amazed at the narrowness of the stairway treads. Frequently to get any kind of foothold, I have to turn my foot sideways to progress and even then my foot only just fit. The risers were perhaps 15 inches in height, so it is hard work trying to climb up. The stairways are the path to heaven. According to early beliefs, the transition between earth and heaven is not meant to be easy hence the steepness. It also creates an optical illusion that the temple is much higher than it is in reality. I surprised myself by climbing up many and the view was, at times, magnificent. Other times, I sat at the bottom and enjoyed young tourists racing to the top.
For today’s tourists, in some places they’ve constructed wooden stairways over the old stone steps, and they have even treads and have removed some of the steepness. Still they are steep.
These edifices were built as temples to the gods. The first temples were for Hindu gods. The latter ones built under Jayavarman VII were dedicated to Buddhism when he declared it to be the national religion. They are full of symbolism and the beautifully detailed carvings have left a graphic reminder of the beliefs during this period. Some also give an insight into the lifestyle. Bas relief detail show acrobats, people drawing water and playing chess, winning battles, losing life to name a few scenes.
The temples range from the comparatively basic and unadorned Ta Keo to the classically beautiful temple of Angkor Wat with 600 metres of bas relief and 2000 apsaras, particularly around the lower of its three levels. Then there is the stunningly beautiful and detailed in outlying Banteay Srei (36 kms from Siem Reap) to the out and out weird. I went to Banteay Srei twice, as much for the lovely ride in the countryside as to revisit the site. However, it is definitely worth a second visit as I saw different aspects of its magnificence.
The Bayon temple takes the prize for the weird. It’s a temple (part of the extensive Angkor Thom complex) built by the most prolific builder of all the kings – Jayavarman VII.
Bayon is a testament to his ego and absolute creative genius. This temple has 54 gothic towers displaying 216 smiling (rather coldly) faces of Avalokitesvara. This is the Mahayana Buddhist ideal of compassion, who chooses not to pass into Nirvana but help bring enlightenment to others. But these all seeing heads bear a resemblance to King Jayavarman! How’s that for ego? No matter where I turn many faces are looking down on me. It’s weird. This is one of the many temples that on first viewing looks just like a pile of old stones but once I had spent time there more and more of the detail unfolded.
Sometimes inscriptions were etched into the stones and these detail the number of people the temple supported, an inventory of staff and jewels held in the libraries.
Much detail has been lost though because many records were written on palm leaves and these have long since disintegrated.
Historians have been able to reconstruct the history with the assistance of an account left by a Chinese emissary – Chou Ta Kuan who spent a year at Angkor in the later 13th century. He notes that some of the spires were covered in gold. None of that remains today, but what a spectacle that would have made.
It is truly amazing but exhausting to visit these temples. I spent 5 days there and was able to visit all of the main temples. I also went to another small temple (Ta Nei) which required a walk of one and half kilometers to reach it. It was a treat to be there because aside from my driver I was the only person there – oh and a guard sleeping. There’s always a guard these days because there has been so much looting.
Actually with the projected growth for the area, I cannot imagine what it will be like to visit these wonderful ruins with double the number of visitors. Currently visitors to Cambodia number 2 million but receipts for the ruins around Siem Reap numbers 1.1 million (there is some suggestion in the media that these figures are understated!) Nor can I imagine that we will continue to be allowed almost unrestricted access to climb over, sit and touch these ancient ruins. However, I feel very fortunate that I have had some time here.
Photos: Apsara at Banteay Srei, Bees nest at Ta Prohm and impact of trees at Ta Prohm
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