Monkey Hill
Note to self: before charging off to some place noted on the map – first establish whether the map is to scale!
It didn’t look far. An early morning walk along the beach of about one hour, turn right at the Hyatt Hotel, take the next right and in a short time I’d be at my desired destination Khao Krailas Hill (the aptly named Monkey Hill). This is the home of numerous statue and Buddha.
After walking for a time and feeling I’d gone further than I should have, (had the map been to scale!) I stopped to ask directions. “Oh you haven’t got far to go” said the man pointing far, far into the distance. “Only about another one kilometer” he added cheerfully.
To be honest it looked much further than I wanted to be walking and the sun was getting higher in the sky. I was hot so I ducked up a road and waiting right there (aren’t they always) was a trusty tuk tuk driver. After some good natured banter, we agreed on $10 for him to take me there, wait about one hour while I wandered around the site, and then he would take me back into town.
Just as well I used a tuk tuk because we were motoring for quite some time before reaching my destination. I also noticed that none of the signs were in English so there is no doubt that I would not have reached the wat without local knowledge.
However, after arriving at the site, I very nearly changed my mind about visiting it. The first hesitation was when I saw the steps (almost reaching up to the sky) I had to climb to get there. The second time was not related to such “wimpish” behaviour.
As I neared the top of the steps, shoulders and arms covered like a respectful tourist (shamefully I forgot about the open toed shoes though), I was stopped in my tracks by about six rabid looking dogs barking furiously, their sharp fangs baying for food, or revenge - who would know. I’m scared of dogs at the best of times so I was paralysed quite literally “on the spot” quite unsure what to do. I was sure that if I turned and ran down (or even calmly walked - but how to be calm under so much pressure!) the couple of hundred steps I had just grunted up they might begin to chase me. But aside from that – I felt that there was NO WAY I was going to get past these monsters safely.
As I wavered in my decision making I heard a young woman call “good morning ma-dam” and then an open faced craggy old lady appeared. She was dressed very simply in white draped around her old body toga style and carried a long bamboo stick. She was my salvation! With this stick she hit the ground and spoke very softly to the dogs until they are silenced; she moved them away from me and with gesture invited me to visit the wat.
I’m so glad I persevered. Many of the buildings and statues have been carved out of the side of the massive rocks that make up this hill. There is a beautiful carved and gold trimmed wat, multi coloured frangipani trees in full bloom cast their lovely soft scent around the hill, a monk dressed in his orange robe makes a scratching sound as he rakes the crisp leaves into a pile. It feels so spiritual here. I feel lucky to be here and am enveloped by a feeling of calmness. I want to know more but this is not a tourist enterprise – in fact I am the only outsider here. It’s also an ideal place to go for great views of Hua Hin.
I am rather sure I misunderstood the intentions of the craggy old lady when she invited me to buy food or incense. “I’ve been conned before”, I thought as I declined to buy what I am now sure was intended as an offering to Buddha. She didn’t appear to mind, but who would know.
Clearly this area is in need of funds as it looks past its best. I am delighted it is open to be shared with those few of us who take the time to stop by a while and have some reflection time. Upon leaving I put some money in the box – more than I would have had I paid for an offering and hope that made up, just a little, for my earlier crassness.
Although I didn’t see any monkeys I am so glad I didn’t bail out when there were some obstacles in my path.
Note to self: before charging off to some place noted on the map – first establish whether the map is to scale!
It didn’t look far. An early morning walk along the beach of about one hour, turn right at the Hyatt Hotel, take the next right and in a short time I’d be at my desired destination Khao Krailas Hill (the aptly named Monkey Hill). This is the home of numerous statue and Buddha.
After walking for a time and feeling I’d gone further than I should have, (had the map been to scale!) I stopped to ask directions. “Oh you haven’t got far to go” said the man pointing far, far into the distance. “Only about another one kilometer” he added cheerfully.
To be honest it looked much further than I wanted to be walking and the sun was getting higher in the sky. I was hot so I ducked up a road and waiting right there (aren’t they always) was a trusty tuk tuk driver. After some good natured banter, we agreed on $10 for him to take me there, wait about one hour while I wandered around the site, and then he would take me back into town.
Just as well I used a tuk tuk because we were motoring for quite some time before reaching my destination. I also noticed that none of the signs were in English so there is no doubt that I would not have reached the wat without local knowledge.
However, after arriving at the site, I very nearly changed my mind about visiting it. The first hesitation was when I saw the steps (almost reaching up to the sky) I had to climb to get there. The second time was not related to such “wimpish” behaviour.
As I neared the top of the steps, shoulders and arms covered like a respectful tourist (shamefully I forgot about the open toed shoes though), I was stopped in my tracks by about six rabid looking dogs barking furiously, their sharp fangs baying for food, or revenge - who would know. I’m scared of dogs at the best of times so I was paralysed quite literally “on the spot” quite unsure what to do. I was sure that if I turned and ran down (or even calmly walked - but how to be calm under so much pressure!) the couple of hundred steps I had just grunted up they might begin to chase me. But aside from that – I felt that there was NO WAY I was going to get past these monsters safely.
As I wavered in my decision making I heard a young woman call “good morning ma-dam” and then an open faced craggy old lady appeared. She was dressed very simply in white draped around her old body toga style and carried a long bamboo stick. She was my salvation! With this stick she hit the ground and spoke very softly to the dogs until they are silenced; she moved them away from me and with gesture invited me to visit the wat.
I’m so glad I persevered. Many of the buildings and statues have been carved out of the side of the massive rocks that make up this hill. There is a beautiful carved and gold trimmed wat, multi coloured frangipani trees in full bloom cast their lovely soft scent around the hill, a monk dressed in his orange robe makes a scratching sound as he rakes the crisp leaves into a pile. It feels so spiritual here. I feel lucky to be here and am enveloped by a feeling of calmness. I want to know more but this is not a tourist enterprise – in fact I am the only outsider here. It’s also an ideal place to go for great views of Hua Hin.
I am rather sure I misunderstood the intentions of the craggy old lady when she invited me to buy food or incense. “I’ve been conned before”, I thought as I declined to buy what I am now sure was intended as an offering to Buddha. She didn’t appear to mind, but who would know.
Clearly this area is in need of funds as it looks past its best. I am delighted it is open to be shared with those few of us who take the time to stop by a while and have some reflection time. Upon leaving I put some money in the box – more than I would have had I paid for an offering and hope that made up, just a little, for my earlier crassness.
Although I didn’t see any monkeys I am so glad I didn’t bail out when there were some obstacles in my path.
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