Creatures of Habit

Are We ALL Creatures of Habit?

At my wee piece of paradise on Choeng Mon Beach, I’m observing that many of us are creatures of habit.

Three times now, I’ve elected to have my breakfast at Crystals where I take a table in the building, rather than outside on the loungers. My table overlooks the two rows of sun loungers on the sand shaded by tatty multi-coloured beach umbrellas and right in front of them the waves roll in relentlessly.

Each day the same scene unfolds.

A foursome from some Northern European country (perhaps even Russia), nab the same loungers – one for each of them. The other day someone had used that time old method of reservation; leaving clothes on two of the front row seats. After the foursome arrived, a ten minute discussion ensued. The group leader was INDIGNANT that someone else had the audacity to reserve what she clearly determined where “her” loungers. So, she removed the clothing, then put her hands on her hip while there was another ten minute discussion placed the other person’s belongings on different loungers - in the second row. She was very proud of herself and then ordered her friends (it seemed me) to sit where she directed them.

The four then each take off a top layer of clothing, the women releasing bulbous uncontrollable breasts, go for a swim, change into dry swimsuits (on the beach), hang the wet swimsuits on the umbrella ribs, rub suntan lotion on and get out the sudoku book.

A rather dapper Frenchman has a slightly different routine. His spot is three along from the foursome. He spends several minutes adjusting his sun umbrella and then he places his important daily requirements i.e. cigarettes, cell phone and book on the table beside him. He walks up to the restaurant (where I’m sitting) and grabs their broom to take back with him.

An aside - these brooms are amazing and are used everywhere. They have a thin bamboo handle about a metre in length. Woven, very neatly to the handle are multiple strands of a dried grass. Each strand is approximately 60 cm long but tied up the handle so the ends are left at differing lengths and the grasses splay out in the shape of an open fan. They are lovely and soft to use and very effective.

Our dapper Frenchman, who dresses in a number of different snazzy patterned swimsuits each day, figure hugging of course, fastidiously sweeps his blue wooden lounger with this broom. He then struts around his lounger inspecting the sand and rids the area of every stone. I don’t see many stones but even one invader must be gotten rid of. He then lies in his lounger, adjusts the angle numerous time to get it just right for the sun. Often its still not right, so he gets up, digs out some sand underneath the front legs to lower the lounger and improve the view. Organising his towels – one to lie on and another rolled up for a head support demands even more attention.

Finally, after about half an hour of detailed fussing, he is ready to settle down with his book.

I find all this fascinating and observing others helps to alleviate some of the concerns I have about my own routines! Of course, I don’t think I’m as bad as this but others might disagree!

The funny thing is, if I wander past again 6 or 7 hours later, the same people are in the same spots so I suppose all this attention to detail is important when you spend so long in the one place.

I could write many more observations, like the elderly French couple who are tanned golden brown – all over – from the (plentiful) bits of their bodies on display. Or I could mention the relationships I've seen develop between local girls and visiting men. But, I don’t want to bore you, or, give you the impression I’ve nothing better to do with my time!

Photo taken during "transition" time at around 6p.m. - the sun-bathers have gone and the diners are not yet out for dinner.

Around the Island to Bo Phut

Around the Island to Bo Phut

Hello from Bo Phut where I’m sitting at one of my favourite spots for observing what’s happening in a place; a café right on the edge of fisherman’s pier. I caught the sawngthaew up here which is the local form of bus – (like a converted ute - see the photo) and it's about a 20 minutes ride from Choeng Mon.

It’s from this pier that the boats take people out to many different islands, (Koh Tao, Koh Phangan, Koh Som etc) in the Gulf of Thailand. I planned to visit some of these islands but as they turn into raging party palaces at full moon, which is about now, I’ve decided to extend my stay at the lovely peaceful (relatively) piece of paradise at Choeng Mon.

I’ve stopped for breakfast at Coffee Junction. They boast superb coffee and so it should be at the price. The price is a 35% premium to any other coffee I’ve had in Thailand! A note to self: do check the size of the cup before ordering. Here you can have a choice of coffee beans – the more common robusta (twice the caffeine of Arabica) or Arabica (about 75% - 80% of the world's production) varieties and I’ve ordered the latter which, it's generally accepted has more flavour. Anyway, the thimble sized cup of coffee arrives and it is excellent.

My contentment is shattered by the piercing bang of fireworks as they cut through the general street noise at regular intervals and sometimes makes me jump as it’s so unexpected. People light them in the narrow street just in front of the small wooden houses and shops. The smoldering remains of the double happies are doused with water, the red outside paper left swirling around the street.

Diagonally opposite me three old men relax in bamboo chairs outside another café. These guys are having a great time commenting on everyone and everything that passes by this busy corner. Sometimes the conversation gets quite animated: about what – I don’t know because of course it’s conducted in Thai.

This area is very quaint and has a number of nice looking places to stay, some with water views but I am happy I decided to stay put. There is an excellent array of dining options here too.

The beach sand here is coarser than Choeng Mon and Chaweng. Like all these beaches there is no tolerance for the effects of global warming if indeed that does raise sea levels. Here at Bo Phut at high tide, there’s only about 2 meters of beach area. But unlike Choeng Mon and Chaweng, there is a small rise before the road, restaurants and hotels have been built which will give this area a reprieve.

I’m missing….wholegrain toast

I’m surprised……at how kind, polite and gentle everyone is towards me.

Taste Sensation….the HUGE locally grown cashew nuts which are about double the size of any I’ve seen in NZ so they clearly don't export the best of the crop! A divine snack.

I’m Loving……everyday vendors pull up right beside my deck on their motor cycles with food carts attached. They announce their arrival with a few short blasts on their horn. They sell all sorts of things – rice dishes, noodles, soups and fruit. Everyday I buy fruit – from the fruit man – a selection from ¼ papaya, ¼ pineapple, big slice of watermelon and about 10 bananas.

Bargain of the moment…..the fruit – for 2 bags of the above about 80c.

I’m reading….Actually I’ve just finished the superb “Mao’s Last Dancer” by Li Cunxin. I heard him speak a few years ago and he was one of the very best speakers I’ve listened to. This autobiography is the story and transformation of an 11 year old child from a very, very poor peasant background. He was plucked out of millions of hopeful youngsters and taken from his loving family to train at the Beijing Dance Academy established by Madame Mao. Opportunity, training, a tough mental focus and hard work triumph and he realises the dream of a lifetime for ballet dancers. A truly remarkable story.

Some of my Favourite Travel Books

I love armchair travel books. I find how and why other people change their lifestyle and how serendipity, if recognized and accepted, can alter and enrich the travel experience. Here are some of the books I’ve found inspiring, and/or have enjoyed reading.

Tales of a Female Nomad
Rita Golden Gelman

As the American author says of her life – it was a continuous round of “elegant restaurants, interesting people, and events like the Academy Awards and the Grammies. My husband of twenty-four years and I dine with celebrities we see the latest movies before the rest of the world, and we’re invited to all the book parties in Los Angeles”.

But she felt hollow. Life for Rita was, on the outside, exhilarating, perhaps even one others might want to emulate, but she felt like she was living someone else’s life.

After a short break from the marriage, her husband suggested they spend longer apart. During this interval Rita traveled to Mexico relishing the freedom and change of conditions she experienced when living with the locals. When it became clear that the marriage was over, rather than wallowing in self pity, she did a quick stock-take of her finances and her desires and began life as a nomad.

During her travels, she lived (and has written about) life in Mexico the Galapagos Islands, Bali, New Guinea, Israel and Nicaragua, Thailand and my home country of New Zealand. In Bali she lived in a palace but more commonly she lived like the locals.

Throughout her delightful book she demonstrates a “can do attitude”.

Her website http://www.ritagoldengelman.com/ notes that Tales of a Female Nomad has sold over 100,000 copies. Her site also has other useful travel tips.

I love this quote from her book “I’m not running away. I’m running toward….toward adventure, toward discovery, toward diversity.” What a great philosophy.

A must read for anyone contemplating solo travel.

Ted Simon
Jupiters Travels

Jupiter’s Travels is an astonishing and inspiring book and was one of the very first travel narratives I read soon after it was first published in 1979.

Ted chronicles his motorcycle travels around the world – a journey which took around four years. A meticulous recorder of detail he notes that the journey was 60,647 road miles and he undertook a further 17,655 miles by seal, rail and ferry.

A solid read, the book is packed with marvelous anecdotes. The wonderful understated sense of humor of the English shines throughout as he discusses places and people with keen perception. Although he has an impressive grasp of detail and observation, Simon does not allow it to slow the story down. Instead, it carries the reader along on the trip.

Ted began his first journey at age 46 and amazingly at age 70 he repeated the trip and itinerary. His website www.jupitalia.com has details of the second trip, his new book, photographs, details of the equipment he took, including panniers in which he packed all of his needs for the trip and more.

A great read even for those not contemplating travel on two wheels.


Without Reservations
By Alice Steinbach

When Alice took six months leave of absence from her job as a journalist, she wanted to use the time for “comfort “travel. She had fallen into the habit of many of us - that of being defined by other people – behaving in the way others expected of her. Instead, she wanted to live in the moment and satisfy her longing for new experiences.

In January 1993 she left the United States for Paris, a city she knew, having spent some time there as a wife and mother of young children. In Without Reservations she has chapters on her time in London and Florence. Alice has an amazing ability to turn casual encounters into friendships and these serendipitous events make for enlightening vignettes.

By the time Alice wrote her next travel book (Educating Alice) she had resigned her job with plans to travel the world as a casual student taking courses of interest to her – and these courses are eclectic.

In Educating Alice the author, explores more of her interests and it opens with anecdotes from her attendance at a cooking class at the Ritz in Paris. In Prague she appreciates the importance of sensible shoes to walk along the cobbles to the ancient castle, puts on dancing shoes for a session in Kyoto with a geisha and finds secret gardens in the city she adores – Paris. Cuba features too with an extraordinary tale of a dinner and fashion show where the clothes are all in white. A chance encounter with a teacher who extends an invitation to visit her home gives Alice the opportunity to glimpse a life far removed from the usual tourist experiences.

Another chance encounter with a Japanese man, Naohiro, (he was introduced in her first book Without Reservations) ignites a beautiful friendship and Alice’s vignettes of their snatched time together are sprinkled throughout the two books. These glimpses into a smoldering relationship conducted long distance are pure gold.

Her keen eye for detail does not hinder her writing. Like a fine jeweler, Alice crafts her words with care; less is more and anything not advancing the narrative is removed.

Alice’s books are treats to be savored and I want more.




Buying a property in France or Italy is the subject of a number of books. Each author has their own twist on a common theme - visit the country, fall in love with a local man, the location, a property, or any combination....




1. Mary Moody
Author of a Trilogy: Last Tango in Toulouse: Au Revoir (Running Away from Home at Fifty); and Long Hot Summer

Australian broadcaster, author, keen gardener, cook and raconteur, Mary Moody escaped her life (husband, family, job and home) for six months in France, alone. Mary has a knack of making anywhere she rests her head like home complete with friends (locals or numerous visitors from home), lots of laughter and good conversation. Tables groan with interesting food and the way Mary writes about numerous long lunches and dinners she hosted or visited in rural France had me salivating. I often felt as though there was a place set at the table waiting for me - all I had to do was arrive, relax and imbibe.

Mary falls in love with the food, the people and the place and her first six months in the country becomes a tempter. You get the sense she will repeat the experience which she does. On a subsequent trip, after an extensive search, (and false starts) she eventually locates a suitable property to buy in the Lot region (2 hours drive inland from Bordeaux), so begins another tale – that of its restoration.

Mary’s books are a gentle and amusing romp. They are easily digestible. Her honesty in the way she handles this tumultuous change in life and relationships is refreshing.

Her website http://www.marymoody.com.au/ details her many books, tours and more. After reading about the trials and tribulations synonymous with renovations in a country far from home, and with different and unexpected issues, it is a treat to see photographs of her completed home. Her web site also gives details of how to reserve her retreat in France.


2. Marlena de Blasi
A Thousand Days in Venice

Marlena’s Italian story is a gentle tale of unfolding love. Love of the country, the food and lifestyle and love of the man – a Venetian banker named Fernando. A Thousand Days in Venice is one of the classic “across a crowded room, I know he is THE ONE” stories. The story of how the two met would be a great plot for a romance novel, but no, this is real life!

Marlena’s records how she left her life in America, packed up her treasures and transplanted herself into Fernando’s life to share his apartment and country. His home is long overdue for renovation and a woman’s touch. Whereas he loves to live very simply and doesn’t “see” the issues with his existing home, she is used to sumptuous surroundings. This conflict forms the basis for some interesting negotiations between them as Marlena persuades him, successfully, to transform his home.

Before she left America, Marlena was a chef and food writer so her Italian adventure provides a wonderful canvas for her loves which she shares (including several recipes) with us.

A deliciously warm, true story of how romance has the power to surprise and transform.



The Reluctant Mariner
Joanna Hackett

Just how reluctant Joanna is to participate in her husbands dream is made crystal clear in the opening paragraph of the book. Joanna cannot sail and is a confirmed landlubber. This is a classic “feel the fear and do it anyway” story.

Her husband wants to undertake a round the world journey and on a yacht! So after some sailing lessons, all too soon, the big adventure begins - to circumnavigate the globe on a 12 metre yacht. During this journey as Joanna ventured further and further from shore, she adapted to shipboard life, overcoming many physical and psychological challenges, and it appeared that she had become a true “yachtie”. They visited 37 countries, sometimes leaving their boat on an anchorage to venture inland for several days.

Joanne writes with passion, and with the sense of humour so typical of those from the antipodean (Australia) part of the world. A wonderful book to curl up on a comfortable chair with, then admire how someone can overcome so much to participate in the dream of another.


Letters from the Med
Summer Cruising Under the Endless Sun
Andrea and Ian Treleaven

Andrea and Ian trip sounds leisurely and comfortable as they cruised the Mediterranean ports, marinas and bays of the rich and famous on board Cadiz, their 47 foot Beneteau. They are experienced yachties, (especially Ian who has done a lot of blue water sailing).

Letters from the Med was a welcome addition to my coffee table display. It is beautifully written and presented in “bite sized” pieces making it easy to read for anyone with a few minutes to spare.

An interesting addition, particularly for yachties, is a number of side bars of “Ian’s Cruising Notes” with gems for anyone thinking about taking a trip to these waters.

Although the book is effortless to read, it’s the stunning photography that tempts me to pick this lovely book up again and again. The couple’s trip was detailed in Andrea’s weekly newsletter to friends, later expanded to “Treleavens’ Travels” and published on the website http://www.sail-world.com/.

It will be enjoyed; I am sure, by landlubbers and anyone with a love of the water.

The Pageant - Choeng Mon Beach

Vendors along Choeng Mon Beach and "my" massage hut with my bungalow jutting out just behind it.

It’s a Pageant - Choeng Mon Beach Thailand

I’ve scored this marvelous bungalow right on the beach at Choeng Mon on the island of Koh Samui, not far in distance from Chaweng, but miles apart in appeal. I don’t know how he did it, but Jeffy from Chaweng seemed to read my mind and between his limited English (actually his English was quite good) and my non existent Thai, he managed to get the perfect spot for me.

He did promise me a quiet beach and it’s not. However the beach is very pretty, white sand like powder and the luke warm sea is the gorgeous green colour seen in all the best travel brochures. At night a very romantic scene unfolds. Restaurants set up tables to replace the sun loungers and as fairy lights twinkle in the still warm evening air, people relax over dinner and couples stroll the along beach.

Massage huts line the sea shore along the length of this lovely beach and all day long people wander up and down selling all manner of things; jewelry, clothing, belts, wraps, shorts sunglasses and hats. Then there are ice-cream, corn on the cob gently roasted over naked hot coals, donut and fruit vendors, plus those selling balls and floating devices of various descriptions. The list of vendors goes on and on. I think they must be sanctioned by some higher body because they all wear red vests with numbers on them.

Walking along this beach, especially in the morning, is a social event. By the time I get back to my room I’ve said good morning to about three dozen people.

The massage ladies interest me the most. They seem to have a “hustler” and her job is to get “bums on seats”. The conversation with me goes something like,
“Good morning ma-DAM…..how are yooou this morning? Ma-DAM, you want a mas-SAGE to-day?” all said in a lilting sing-a-long voice.
My reply is polite and stock standard. “No. But thank you VERY much.” They seem to like this and usually smile and sometimes give me that lovely Thai response of a thank you, hands placed just under a slightly bowed head in the prayer position. It’s very humbling. Other times the response is a regretful look as though there won’t be any redemption for me because my skin is in shocking condition and I really should get treatment with urgency.

Yesterday morning one particularly outgoing “hustler” dressed in a red tee shirt came rushing up to me and threw her arms around me for a big hug. Well, I’m an uptight (ever so slightly!) westerner and I was quite taken aback at this display of affection from a stranger. She proceeded to ask me, as they all do, “are you married?” (The other question is “excuse me ma-dam, how old are yooou?”)

But I digress I had a dilemma. How to choose who to favour for my various treatments?
The “problem” was solved easily enough. I’m slightly away from the teeming masses on the larger beach area just around the corner but on my smaller stretch, just outside my bungalow, there are three massage huts all in a row and to get to the beach I walk between two of them. The one closest to me changed the sales pitch to “When you wanna mas-SAGE, you come to me OK?” and I found myself saying OK. After all, it would have been disloyal to ignore my closest neighbors in favour of anyone else along this colourful stretch of beach.

So that’s how, yesterday, I ended up with a two hour pampering session (and that was just for my feet and hands!) administered by two lovely Thai ladies. I lay prostrate in an open sided hut, listening to the waves crashing two metres away while my feet, after uh-um decades of neglect, received the treat of their life.

I left feeling fantastic and with lovely pink varnished finger and toe nails.

Walking the beach this morning though, the affectionate “hustler” in the red tee shirt was there. Like an adultress after a delicious night, I tried to creep past without my indiscretions being uncovered. But she rushed up to me and immediately, her face fell as she saw my feet, the skin all lovely and glowing, like new, along with flash new nail polish on my fingers and toes. In a flash, she knew that I’d been a traitor.

Ah….such is the dilemma of a decadent traveler.

What I’m loving……sitting on my deck, listening to the surf gently rolling in and watching the pageant along the beach unfold before me.

Bargain of the moment……the price I’m paying for this great spot.

Best Coffee…….this is almost a story….here goes…..Honey’s Bar is right on the beach. I’m in heaven because, the coffee is properly espressed and as a consequence it has crema. Other coffee around here is Kona style and horrid muddy stuff, but not this. It is served it in a cute cup – rather like the old Temuka pottery cups but this cup has a soft sage coloured glaze on the inside and a Thai pattern around the cup is repeated on the saucer. The accompanying sugar spoon is tiny, cute and made of wood. It’s a complete experience. Yeah….I know it – I’m sick but that’s addiction for you!

Taste sensation……the cold watermelon juice I had for breakfast – freshly juiced.

What I’m missing…..just chatting to people who know me.

What I’m reading….actually I’ve just finished Elizabeth Gilberts book “Eat, Pray, Love” and I thoroughly enjoyed it. soon, I’ll download an item I wrote before I left NZ about some of my favorite travel books.

Not sure what my next report will be about – maybe something from Bo Phut beach which I’m hoping will be my “home” for a while, but then again, I might extend my stay here - again. Bo Phut is a fishing village short way around the island.

No Plans Today?......

No Plans Today?........
The gorgeous Thai part-owner of The Jungle Club has a huge generous smile. He walked by earlier today, as I was lazing on the hammock just outside my cottage, (where I’ve spent many happy hours), and he says,
“Hey Joy. You doin awright?” (Actually, he calls out to me every day and says the same thing).
“Yes, I’m great thanks” I call cheerily.
“You got no plans today?” he says, his grin getting bigger and his sparkling white teeth almost blinding me, even from 50 paces.
“Yeah…I’ve got plans”. I reply pointing to a book in hand, my hammock swinging ever so gently in the soft breeze almost rocking me off to sleep.
“Yeah, you on holiday, right?” he responds.
He’s happy and goes on his way and I’m left smiling. It’s a great plan I reckon.

Later in the day.
It’s raining. It smells just like the NZ bush when it rains up here – a sort of musty smell and I like it a lot. I guess the smell comes from the roof of the bungalow - from the woven dried coconut fronds but I’m not entirely sure. The ends of the fronds hang down a little over my balcony and the water finds its way to the pointy tips and then drips down onto the parched garden below. No need for gutters and drainpipes here. I can no longer see Chaweng as it’s shrouded in mist.
In previous days, I thought I heard rain but it must have been the wind whipping through the coconut palms that surround the property. Or, perhaps it was the action of the wind on the dry roof. I don’t know but this is the first rain we’ve had since I’ve been here. It cools the air down a little.

The energy here is at the opposite end of the spectrum from Pranakorn-Nornlen in Bangkok. There the energy was calm, quiet and soothing. Everything there is designed to facilitate the transference of this peacefulness to the guests. Even the doors to the rooms have been designed for that purpose. They are shutter style – two narrow teak doors. If I slowed down I could just fit sideways through one side. And that is the idea of them. You need to slow down to go through the one side – or stop to open the other side. Nice idea and it worked for me. I felt serene there.
But here, the guys are constantly jumping out of their skin and they are so loud. It took some adjusting to when I first got here. But the spot is hard to beat and I'm loving the elevation high above the crassness and craziness of Chaweng below us. From where I’m sitting – again in a gazebo, I can see about a dozen islands in the distance – some small and some larger with habitation.

It rained once during my time in Bangkok too. Actually it was a torrential downpour. I made it back to my hotel with a minute to spare (phew) before the skies opened. The lovely young couple, Torey and Dave, (we shared a special dinner and frenetic tuk tuk rides on our last night in Bangkok), said they saw the water gushing down the street and worried the area around our hotel would flood. But then the downpour stopped as suddenly as it began and quickly drained away leaving no trace.

Overall the weather has been great. This is the high season and the coolest time of the year. Temperatures during this season (November to March) hover between 22 C and 28 C. For the most part, I’ve been quite warm and occasionally hot. At night up here I’ve been pleased to have my jeans to put on as there’s a lovely cool(ish) breeze and the dining room is open to the elements all along the front.

I’ll tell you later what the weather will be like down on the coast. I’ve booked a bungalow on the beach in Choeng Mon which is also on this island of Koh Samui. I’ve been reassured that it’s nicer and much quieter than Chaweng. Fingers crossed.

I’m missing……a really good coffee. I might have to resort to Starbucks. Oh my! Horrors of horrors and there are two of them in Chaweng.

I’m enjoying……asking myself what I’d like to do most and then doing it without guilt (well….maybe a little – old habits are hard to break).

I’m surprised…..at how each day passes by without much effort. Oh, and I’m also surprised how much I’m sleeping.

Taste sensation……a lovely cold beer when I get really hot. I’ve never had so much beer but I’m finding it very refreshing.

I’m reading……”Eat, Pray, Love” by Elizabeth Gilbert and enjoying it a lot. I finished “The Girl From Times Square” and it was OK.
Next update…probably from the beachside bungalow.

Koh Samui - The Jungle Club

Koh Samui – Jungle Club

It’s early – well not that early actually but at this time, 0700, I have the resort to myself and its very peaceful. I’m sitting high up on a hill with lush green hills around the back of the resort but then it drops away down the hill towards the flat area of Chaweng township and the sea. In the near distance I can see numerous islands dot the landscape. Fishing boats bob gently in the distance. On a clear day it’s possible to see the mainland but the days have been rather misty so I haven’t been able to see it.
I am sitting in a thatch covered gazebo that juts out right over the edge of the hill and it truly is an idyllic place to bring my laptop and write. If you want to see where I am try www.jungleclubsamui.com. At night, as I sit and enjoy a beer and dinner I watch the town below me light up and feel happy that I’m here and not down there. They have developed "my" resort sensitively and have provided guests with many different places to tuck away and enjoy the vista or curl up with a good book.

It's isolated here as taxis can only come to the bottom of the hill. A jeep from the Jungle Club picked me up from the bottom of the hill and we drove up a steep concrete driveway which then turns into an even steeper narrow driveway and when the concrete runs out, we drive, very slowly, over a dusty, narrow rutted dirt track and then we reach paradise. I sat on the back of the jeep, and held on tight, but it was fun.

I went into the town of Chaweng and I hated it. It’s dirty and smells of sewerage – probably because they infrastructure has struggled to keep up with the development which is intensive. Many bored looking tourists wander aimlessly and many more race around the streets on motor scooters. Actually there are a great many accidents here because people aren’t used to riding scooters or the roads. I saw several walking wounded with gashes and grazes I imagine came from falling off a scooter – no helmets either!

The beach here is sublime. The sand is white and fine, like powder, the sea a gorgeous green and it laps gently onto the shoreline – but the resorts are tightly stacked right along the beach. When I went down to the beach, I could hardly move for loungers packed very closely together and lined with sun worshippers. Every brochure you read says to dress modestly and avoid nudity on the beach yet I was shocked (and not because I am prudish) to see many topless. I hate to think what the well covered Thai women plying the sun worshippers with snacks, drinks and trinkets must think. This is, I think, the only time I have ever felt embarrassed to be a Westerner.

Just back from the beach resorts lining the sea front is a myriad of shops – all selling the same things. I’d arranged for the resort to pick me up after four hours so I booked in for a massage (which was great) to use up some of the time and get me away from the beach and pungent smells around the street. But it’s not all bad as there are some great cafes and I had a superb meal at Will Wait.

I’m here for two more nights and then I’m not sure where I’m going. I will try to sort that out today. Bo Phut which is also on this island of Koh Samui has been recommended as a quieter beach and one I might like. The internet won’t work for me here so I need to go back (sigh) into Chaweng to check my emails, load up a few more articles on my blog and buy some more supplies.

I’m missing…….my flush toilet. Here the toilets are Thai style – not squat though (phew) – they have a porcelain bowl and a seat but you have to wash away the waste with a bowl and water. It works well but did I tell you….I really miss my flush toilet.

The best spot……the views from here which are hard to beat. See my "new" office in the photo above.

I’m surprised at……just how easily I’ve slipped into this lifestyle and one day is blending into another. A rare treat but one I’m sure I can get used to – for awhile anyway. As you know, I write a journal every day (sometimes several times a day) and I usually just write the date i.e. 11/2/08 but now I’m writing Monday 11/2/08 to keep track of the days.

Taste Sensation……I’ve found some divine rich dark Chocolate – Ritter and I’m enjoying a piece or two with my cup of tea as an after dinner sweet. Although the food is very good here for another taste sensation I’m going back to my Bangkok hotel, Phranakorn Nornlen, for a Thai style melon (it looks and has the texture of avocado) diced and served in coconut milk and ice. Mmmmmm. I wonder if we could grow that and dragon fruit in New Zealand? The food there was sublime.

Best Coffee……Huh? I’ll be suffering withdrawal symptoms soon.

Thai Cons

Thai Cons

The Boat
I was new in town – about 2 minutes outside my hotel. The wonderful staff at my hotel had sent me down to catch the boat to go to the Palace and Buddha sites. I wandered down the road towards the jetty and a very nice Thai man approached me. Hey I’m a Kiwi and we talk to anyone and so I stopped. I thought he was trying to be helpful!

He asked if I wanted to go on the boat. “Yes” I replied.
“I can take you. I take you all the sights and tour of river. How long you want to go?” he said with urgency.
“Oh…I don’t know….about 2 hours”.
“Two hours I give a very good price. Be 2000Baht” - (around $85NZD).
“Too dear” I said. (Later I realized that he could have retired on this trip!)
“I give it you 1000Baht.”
By this time I had gathered my wits and said no, I just wanted to catch the public boat.
Sulkily, he went on his way.
But…..catching the boat was not easy. I had no idea what I was looking for and approached just about every likely craft that came into the jetty. It was hot. I was getting flustered. He saw my confusion and approached me again but got the same polite answer. Oh he tried hard. The next day we went through the same questioning but this time I was a little wiser. By the third day he ignored me.
Eventually the boat I needed came in and I continued to catch it every day and had a lovely time – all for 15Baht. Sure it was a little less convenient but MUCH more satisfying and fun. I got to mix with the locals and found them to be very helpful and polite.

Directions

1. I was walking in the Khao San area and I was very hot after wandering the very narrow and airless passages between the stall holders. I was on my way to catch the boat back to my hotel and was fantasizing about a nice cold beer. I’d been on my feet for awhile and still had a few twists and turns to go to get back to the jetty when a Thai man approached me and said “where you go……to the boat?”
“Yes” I said.
“You go this way to boat”, he said pointing in the opposite direction.
Hmmm. I thought I was going the right way but paused momentarily to question myself. Then, I felt sure I was walking in the right direction and so I carried on.
“You go the wrong way”, he shouted out after me. “Boat this way”, he said pointing left when I was going right.
Oh well, I thought if I get lost so be it. Two more minutes in the direction I was going I reached my destination! I have no idea what he had to gain by pointing me in the wrong direction.

2. I’d just come off the BTS and was going to CentralWorld, a massive shopping centre around Siam Square. A lovely Thai lady approached me and again I engaged with her. She wanted to know where I was going and when I told her she said “Shopping centre closed today. Chinese New Year. Usually open at 10.00 but not today. Chinese New Year.”
“Oh really” I replied sounding very disappointed as I had made my way here especially to go to one of the big malls and also the MBK Center (see my shopping article).
“What you wanna buy?” she asked. “Just want to look” I said – hey I’ve already got way too much luggage!
“You go here” she said and grabbed my map to mark it with where she thought I should go. “Take bus or tuk tuk – cost ‘bout 30baht” and she wrote down the bus number.
I was puzzled but it WAS Chinese New Year and so it did sound plausible. But I carried on my way anyway with her shouting after me “do you no good – not open”.
I reached the mall and it was open!

Good Luck ?

This happened on my first day. I crossed the road (not an easy thing to do in Bangkok) after going to the Grand Palace. An old lady rushed up to me and pushed some plastic bags of dried sweet corn into my hands. Confused I looked at her.
“Good luck for yooou”, she sang.
“Oh thank you” I replied, every bit the polite Kiwi.
“You throw” she said waving her arms to show me what I should be doing to feed the pigeons. “Very good luck”.
I obliged.
“You pay now……70baht. 70baht!” she responded.
“Ah….I haven’t got 70 baht”, I said beginning to feel embarrassed. I quickly gathered my thoughts and realised that she wanted about $3 for a handful of old corn. I was still new in town and not at all used to the currency but knew I only had a few 500 baht notes in my wallet and money belt. I did have a few coins and I think I gave her about 20baht which was still a good price for that. As I left her I smiled at how easy it is to snare a gullible tourist, I’d managed to avoid the boatman but not the next one.

Shopping The Bangkok Way

Shopping the Bangkok Way

Well, I’m fairly certain I look ridiculous! I’m wearing the skirt I purchased yesterday (uneven hem line Mum!) and because my feet are blistered from wearing the other two pair of sandals, I’m wearing my walking shoes (with sox). But aside from my feet, I am cool in this skirt and tee shirt.

Yesterday I got excessively hot walking around Khao San Road in my Kathmandu trousers – the ones I bought especially for this trip on the understanding they would be cool to wear – huh!

Today I’m going to Siam Square which is the home of many shopping complexes. I caught the boat again and after a 45 minute (15 baht or about 60cents NZ) leisurely trip down the river I reach the Central Pier. The boat gets very full as we make stops all the way down the river but it empties out somewhat as we reach the major tourist attractions of the Grand Palace and Emerald Buddha.

My destination and termination point for the boat is Central Pier and this is the home of some of the luxury hotel chains like The Oriental, Peninsula, Marriott and Hilton. They each have faux boats made to look like mini pagoda and are fitted with individual padded chairs in an old style i.e. turned legs of wood and straight high backs. They are staffed by immaculate Thais dressed in formal whites, the creases in their trousers pressed knife edge sharpness. A far cry from my boatman dressed in scruffy khakis, whistle ready with a different call to alert the skipper when to stop, reverse the boat, when he’s tied it up and when all the passengers are on and another to alert him that it's time to go. Unlike the pagoda style boats of the hotel chains, on my boat I am lucky if I can get a seat and when I do it’s a yellow plastic one. Occasionally I am lucky enough and if I’m very quick, to get a seat on the side so its easier to take photographs as we journey down the wide river.

From Central Pier it’s a short walk up to the BTS (overhead rail) station to get on the Silom Line (one of two lines). Following the signs to get my ticket is very easy and it’s cheap - 30 baht for my journey. The trains are very clean, air conditioned and have TV screens announcing the upcoming stop – in English and Thai. Once I get off, I’ve found it’s much easier if I take the time to look at the signs as the exits are all numbered and going out on the correct side means I avoid having to cross a road which is always a good thing in this crazy city.

From my stop at Siam Square, I have my choice of shopping centres. The first one (via a covered overhead walkway) is CentralWorld. This is a pristine centre with over 500 shops and 50 eateries. It houses many named brands but it’s sterile and I’m keen to leave after a short time.

My next stop is the MBK Centre which is also massive but much more to my liking as I feel like I am now in a different country. Many of the shops are tiny. It’s more like a market with many of the stalls no more than 1.5 metres square. There is much to look at and buy – jeans, scarves, jewelry, shoes, bags, belts, watches etc etc. There is a whole floor devoted to electronics – a techo’s dream. Although I wasn’t buying (and you bargain in this store), the prices of a couple of things I checked out – a Canon camera and a Toshiba laptop seemed more expensive than NZ. Of course I’m not sure what the final price would be after some keen bartering.

Floor 5 houses eating places and I had a scrumptious lunch here for about 200 baht.

Another wonderful shopping centre in the vicinity I went to (and I’d recommend it for retail therapy) is the relatively new Paragon Siam. The cosmetics area is several acres in size and has brands I’d never heard of. The department store has such fantastic clothes I almost (?) wished I was buying for a job as a professional! It also has a great book store and I was excited to see two books by New Zealander’s – Joe Bennett’s “Mustn’t Grumble” and Lloyd Jones “Mister Pip” in a different cover to the NZ editions. I bought a book highly recommended to me by a couple of friends by Elizabeth Gilbert “Eat, Pray, Love” (thanks Nola and Robyn) and am looking forward to devouring that soon.

The ground floor of this centre is a definite must visit for "foodies". It is noisy busy and every spot has its food beautifully displayed making selection easier. It has good clean food places from just about every style of cuisine imaginable. I didn’t see bacon and eggs anywhere but I’m sure I would have if I looked long enough. Had I felt like coffee and cake or desert – I was spoilt for choice. I confess, I whimped out on local cuisine this time and had a cheese and spinach pie – well I don’t know when I’ll get the chance again. Also worth some time and a visit is the big international gourmet supermarket.

Khao San Road has a huge reputation to live up to as a shoppers paradise and so of course I had to check it out. It’s busy, crazy and fun. The pavements of several streets are jammed, not on one side, but two with market style shops and eateries. This leaves a narrow walkway and for much of the walk (and they go for a long way) it’s airless and there is room for just one person to walk. Naturally it can be rather frustrating to negotiate because people want to stop and look at the displays and so everyone behind them must wait.

I saw a skirt I wanted, but not in the colour I wanted (surprise, surprise). The sales lady looked through two huge bags of skirts but couldn’t find “my” colour. She then got on the phone and called someone. Was that about my skirt? I couldn’t tell; she spoke only Thai. I thought she was telling me to wait and so I did. In a matter of minutes, the skirt arrived and the deal was done NZD8. Mind you, I have no idea what it looked like on me as I had to try it on in the shop, over my trousers and there was no mirror to check it out. However, it is nice and cool to wear and even if I do look ridiculous, who cares.

Have the Rules Changed? Sydney Airport

Have the Rules Changed? An Experience at Sydney Airport

I checked in at Sydney airport for my flight to Bangkok. The lady on the check-in counter asked if I had any sharp objects in my checked (yes checked) baggage. I answered yes - that I had scissors and a small knife. She advised me that they needed to be removed and put into my hand luggage.
"Are you sure?" I asked - voice on a high rising inflection.
"Yes" she said very firmly. "There are new security regulations and all sharp objects must be placed in hand luggage".
"Isn't it the other way round? Sharp objects MUST be in checked baggage" I said.
"Oh...now I'm uncertain". "I'll need to ask my supervisor". The check-in process continued while I was allocated a seat etc and then she added, "Your way does sound more logical and sharp objects should be in checked luggage. It is only my second day on the job".
She never did ask her supervisor and my sharp objects remained in my checked bag. But she did thank me profusely for correcting her because, as she said, this was the start of her shift and she was about to give everyone erroneous instructions.
Just imagine!
Oh the joys of travelling when English is your first language, making it easy (in English speaking countries) to understand and challenge a point being made.

Slow Your Life in Bangkok!

• Slow Your Life in Bangkok!
  
  Hello from this crazy, vibrant, fascinating city that is Bangkok.
  
  Many of its inhabitants seem to live life out on the street – they cook, eat, watch television, go to the toilet (a child perched over a drain – pays not to look too closely at some things!), play cards, sleep and have their hair done.
  
  However, staying here at the Pranakorn Nornlen is a haven away from this madness and its slogan is “Slow Your Life” is certainly facilitating that for me. It is all very calm and rather lovely. This morning I opened my doors to the deck to look across onto the garden where I watched a squirrel rushing up and down the tree. There’s a school down the alley and as I lay in bed I listened to children singing. Because the hotel is in a residential district, when I venture down the road, I am often the only white face which is an interesting experience.
  
  I love this hotel…… the energy is so calm. It’s like staying in a family home where nothing is expected of you save graciously accept the hospitality. The downside – it’s hard to leave here to go out exploring! It would not suit everyone but for me right now it’s perfect! At night, around 9p.m. two smiling faces appear at the door with a wee woven tray holding a cute yellow china cup and saucer and a pot of hot water. It’s a type of green tea for getting rid of the toxins. Such a lovely thought. If you are out…it’s left on the wooden platform at the end of the bed.
  
  Taste Sensation……..Breakfast is included in the price of the room. It’s all organic here so the taste was divine but unusual for this westerner. It comprised:
  Broccoli soup (it looked like onion) but it was absolutely divine.
  Then there was a sort of an omelet with spinach and tomato and a strange topping – all served with salad.
  A divine tasting pineapple juice, coffee or tea, water, and dragon fruit completed the substantial offering. This fruit is like a white fleshed melon, liberally sprinkled with poppy seeds wrapped in a smooth fuchsia coloured skin and was delicious.
  
  Every morning I’m served a feast all in a leafy green courtyard with water tinkling in the background and gentle music similar to Jeff Clarkson. And they remember my coffee order!
  
  Bargain of the day……Five minutes down the road gives me access to public long boats that ply the Chao Phraya River and for about 60c I can get to many of the great monuments and sights Bangkok is famous for – and spectacular shopping areas. These long boats speed up and down the river and you get the feeling they are going far too fast to stop, then a shrill whistle is sounded and they scud into the pier with a thump (thank goodness for the padding offered by the numerous 4 wheel drive tyres attached to the pier) and a boatman leaps off and ties up. Passengers hurry off (some leaping before the boat is alongside) then those joining the boat get on. No time is wasted in this process and they speed off again to the next stop. They are very efficient.

It’s so easy to offend when unfamiliar with the social mores and I did! There is a spot near the stern on port side, especially reserved for the monks – I failed to see the signs and for awhile I stood there. Oh well – that’s a oncer.

As we progress down the river towards the drop off point for the Grand Palace, the water way gets very busy with many tourist and public craft vying for space. At one stage it seemed to get rather tetchy – rather like bumper boats as they swirled around and around in the water. I’m glad there was no touching because, should there be any sort of mishap, the few life buoys would not cope with the number of people on board. There is no safety briefing! However, it’s a great way to see the city from the river and it’s been my preferred means of transportation.

Later I’ll probably write about the shopping……

Bye Antipodeans...for now

Bye Antipodeans…for now….

It’s my last day in the antipodeans – for awhile anyway and I’m sitting at Sydney airport with a glass of champagne. Well…a girl’s has to treat herself once in awhile!

I’m excited and looking forward to the next part of my trip. Its been wonderful to catch up with friends in Sydney but the reality is that my trip starts now because from here on in I leave behind many comforts – the ease of communicating, being able to read the signs easily, social mores etc. But this stepping out into the unknown is the wondrous part of traveling.

I met some friends of Pam and Allan’s – who have traveled extensively throughout Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. They were extremely enthusiastic about all three countries and gave me many ideas. Several people have suggested I extend my itinerary to include Laos, this couple included. Right now anything is possible so watch this space.

I’m missing….. Aside from family, friends and my pillow – all a given really – I’m missing internet hotspots in cafes and the ease of access to the net from my home. I hadn’t quite realized how dependant I’d become on regular updates. As an “ideas person” my mind is always busy (something I want to calm down) and so it’s been very easy to fuel my “ideas appetite” with a flick of the internet search button. But once I get to Vietnam, most of the hotels offer free internet access – take note NZ and Australia!

The biggest surprise…..So far in planning my trip the biggest surprise (aside from the length of time it took to pack up my home and finalise the myriad of detail necessary to leave NZ for a couple of years) is that you can get a Cambodian visa online. It was so easy to do too and it arrived in my inbox within the day – very efficient. Who would have thought! http://evisa.mfaic.gov.kh/.

The biggest challenge…..I have always been a light traveler and I usually go away for a week or so with not much more than a day pack. But for this trip I’ve packed, repacked and repacked, each time eliminating things I thought were essential. What concerns me is that I have very few clothes left but my bags at 17kg are still too heavy. What have I packed? Perhaps I’ll do a list later. So aside from leaving behind really important baggage my other challenge has been negotiating rush hour Sydney commuter traffic as I transferred from Pam and Allan’s divine home on the water at Cammeray Marina (up 106 steps) via bus and train to my next stop.

Taste sensation…..the superb BBQ (pork chops, apple, vegetables) and salad cooked by Pam and Allan and eaten by the marina in the company of many yachties from around the world. Thankfully there was overhead cover because it rained non stop but the company was warm and friendly.

Favourite Coffee…..Well I AM a caffeine addict! None. The coffee’s been extremely disappointing.

Photo is.....The view from the deck at the marina house (Cammeray). Pam and Allan gave up their bedroom for me (how special) so that I could have this view upon waking. What a treat!

Confessions of a Caffeine Addict

At the start of every new day I enjoy a mug of steaming hot English breakfast tea and this has been a daily ritual for decades now. But, as much as I like my early morning cup of tea, I love coffee. I save the prospect of this treat until later in the day.

The truth is – I am addicted to coffee.

In my home city of Auckland, every day I seek out my favourite coffee places to sit and savor a good strong long black as a mid morning “kick start”. It’s a habit which is easy to indulge in as, in New Zealand, we have access to numerous cafes and many serve cup after cup of superbly roasted and expressed coffee.

Aside from restaurants and cafes, coffee’s offered at petrol stations, garden and sports shops, golf lounges, car grooming establishments, book stores and various mobile coffee carts. They do a great job of luring coffee lovers like me to partake – to sit awhile or have a caffeine “hit” on the run. Of course, I’m not a passive participant in this.

My fanaticism for the “perfect” coffee even extends to baristas where I have identified particular favourites. I am surprised how identical coffee beans, roasted, ground and processed through the same machine but expressed by a different barista can create a completely different taste experience.

Conferring “preferred barista” status is something I take very seriously and like categories for the Academy film awards, I have favourites for different types of the drink - one who produces an outstanding long black and another to create my late afternoon cappuccino. A cappuccino is a work of art. It’s presentation deserves an award of its own and sometimes one is treated to delightful patterns in the froth - swirls, a fern, hearts, chocolate bits or sauce which combine to create an overall “coffee experience”.

In truth, not only do I have my favourite coffee spots in Auckland, I have acquired a list of preferred cafes in small towns and cities throughout New Zealand and in a separate section I have some details. My plan is to add lists of “My Favs” from other countries throughout this journey.

Now, as I leave New Zealand to embark on this journey to South East Asia and Eastern Europe, I’m hoping I can find places, to satisfy and please my discerning coffee palette, particularly in those towns and cities I will stay awhile. Otherwise it will be tea and me which is not a bad second. Of course, I could always resort to instant or plunger coffee. But then again – no – not by choice anyway!

However, drinking coffee; drinking tea; it matters not at all, because I’ll be imbibing these drinks in faraway exotic places surrounded by new faces, different sounds and smells and fresh sights and that’s what I look forward to. And, if this indulged westerner can’t get the coffee she wants in some out of the way place, then so be it as there really are more important things in life.

THE ITINERARY

The itinerary:

My overall goal is to take my time, and wherever I choose to stop, to immerse myself in new cultures and experience a different lifestyle for awhile then to do a little writing and photography. Later I plan to find some work – somewhere.

Because I’m trying to keep my itinerary flexible the following is just a rough guide:

1st February 2008 Depart New Zealand

First stop Sydney for a few days where I’m catching up with several dear friends.

I will see Pam and Allan who are an inspiration to me. They left NZ for one year and five years later (and visits to many, many countries later) are still “on the road” and loving it.

6th February Sydney to Bangkok for 4 nights

Southern Thailand for around 1 month. I plan to use the time here to catch my breath, recover from saying farewell to family, friends, my business, my house and celebrate being on the road – finally!
I have booked a place (that sounds divine) for 6 nights. It’s in the jungle on the island of Koh Samui with magical views down to the bays below. The owners are a Thai/French couple and it has a reputation for great food! But…I wonder what the coffee will be like?

March Cambodia
Phnom Penh, Siem Reap (to look at the old ruins of Angkor Wat, travel up the Mekong to Battambang to see more old Wat. My trusty Lonely Planet guide says that the trip from Siem Reap to Battambang is the best scenic river trip in the country. With a population of 140,000 it is Cambodia’s second largest city. It also has interesting and well preserved French architecture. I also hope to do a little volunteer work.

April/May Vietnam.
From my entry point, Ho Chi Minh City, I plan to travel slowly up the country to beautiful Halong Bay, get a few clothes made (and perhaps some shoes for my huge feet!) I have no firm plans except to stay awhile where I feel like, move on when I’m ready and partake in the delicious food and glorious sights. I’ve been told by others that Sapa (right up near the border of China and near Laos) was the highlight of their journey. Here they experienced Vietnam of a long gone era so I’ll probably try to incorporate a trip up there.

May Dubai – just for a few days.

May/June Turkey.
Being a Kiwi I want to see where we lost so many of our brave young men in earlier wars. Then, I plan to hug the coast and take a trip on a gulet (old wooden yacht). I’ll base myself in Selcuk for awhile and revisit the amazing old marble city of Ephesus along with other ancient ruins nearby.

June/July Somehow, I will make my way to the Czech Republic where I plan to spend some time in the picture book city of Prague.

From Prague I’ll most likely pop in and out of other countries in the vicinity.

If house sitting opportunities come my way or work in exchange for “board and keep” anywhere interesting or somewhere to practice my beginners Spanish arises, I’ll do that as well. If I am near the Czech Republic for winter I’d like to do some skiing where the slopes look fantastic and under utilized.

This is the proposed plan and is subject to change – on a whim or any opportunity that looks interesting….……..