Anniversaries

Hello All

I know that I've been in Sydney for awhile when the anniversaries come around again.

I have just been to see the Sculpture By the Sea exhibition along the walkway from Bondi Beach to Bronte. Once again it is stunning and quite different to the sculptures of last year. I love the way the artists are able to display their art by the sea in such a unique environment.

I have written an article on the hubpages so if you would like to see some more great photos and information go here: http://hubpages.com/_2ray4pba8aldg/hub/art-by-the-sea.

Of course Christmas is not that far away and all the decorations are up in the shops and malls. It's particularly exciting to see the massive tree in the Queen Victoria Building in the city centre.

I've been reading.....Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts. It's a massive book so great for a holiday read. Although it sags badly in the middle, it is well worth the effort. Thanks to my friends who recommended it to me.

I've been writing......a lot! I've been writing on Hubpages. Check me out there. Its really easy to leave comments if you are off a mind too http://hubpages.com/profile/travelespresso.

I've been loving.....recent visits from several friends. Over about a six week period, I've had visits from about eight friends! I feel blessed to be able to catch up with them.

I'm looking forward to.......a visit to Brisbane in a few days time to catch up with my sailing friends and then a visit back to NZ for Christmas.

November 09 Update

Hello all
A quick update on what's happening. I am still living in Sydney. I've been doing some sightseeing and lots of writing which I'm publishing on http://hubpages.com/profile/travelespresso.

You can see some of the articles I've published by clicking on the links below:

Best Sydney Beaches http://hubpages.com/_2ray4pba8aldg/hub/best-sydney-beaches

Intriguing Boat trips in Ninh Binh: http://hubpages.com/_2ray4pba8aldg/hub/Surprising-Ninh-Binh-Vietnam-and-Three-Intriguing-Boat-Trips

Best Sydney Markets http://hubpages.com/hub/Sydneys-Best-Flea-Markets


Learning to Weave with the locals in Vientiane: http://hubpages.com/_2ray4pba8aldg/hub/Weaving-Learning-to-Weave-in-Laos

Shopping at 5 Top Asian Markets: http://hubpages.com/_2ray4pba8aldg/hub/Gift-Shopping-at-5-Top-Markets-in-Asia

And more......

Take a look and if you like what you see (or not), leave me a comment.

Kiama - where the sea makes a noise

Kiama - where the sea makes a noise

Since arriving to live in Sydney, one year ago last month, I've wanted to visit Kiama. The name Kiama means "where the sea makes a noise".

With another friend in town time to explore and a gorgeous sunny 30 degree day promised we set off, in the excited fashion of kids on an day excursion.

The train from Central Station heads south through Sydney suburbs, chugs slowly uphill through quiet native bush and wends its way past idyllic looking seaside communities. Two hours later we reach the pretty harbour town of Kiama hugging a volcanic coastline; its lighthouse gleaming on the hilltop.

Having left early, we were rather hungry so our first stop was to find a cafe with lovely views over the road to the harbour. Lads in this town love their vintage cars and bikes so we were treated to a steady stream of carefully restored vehicles cruising by while we munched on breakfast.

One of the key attractions here are the two blow holes where water is pushed into an underground cave through an opening in the black rocks high up into the sky. There are two blow hole vents; one small and one large and the spurt of water reminds me of the Rotorua geysers.

Kiama also has a couple of those iconic Australian swimming pools beside the open sea which are filled with sea water. I continue to be captivated by them and spent some time trying to photograph them.

It's also famous for its pelican and has made a statue of one although this photo was not taken there.

The day delivered the promised temperature but the sea breeze kept its cooling vigil so it was a very pleasant day for tourists.

Sadly, we didn't see the blow holes playing so I will have to return another time to ensure its not a myth. I will also time my next visit so I can see one of the regular markets.

A Close Game

A Close Game:

If the Silver Ferns were daunted by walking into the Sydney Acer Arena it didn't show in their performance.

The NZ netballers walked out into the darkened stadium to see thousands of flashing "diamond" necklaces. I thought this was sheer marketing genius to link the Australian Diamond Netball Team and their supporters to these flashing lights. the necklaces flashed brilliantly in the dark and the spectacle must have boosted the Australian team. As I cheered on "my team" my necklace remained snug in my handbag.

The new look uniform of the Silver Ferns with sparkling silver strips looked stunning.

Captain, Casey Williams led and played outstandingly well the whole game, limiting the Australian shooter Catherine Cox's success rate. She was replaced at half time.

It was great to again be at a live netball match, even though I was surrounded by cheering supporters in green and gold. However, a few minutes after the whistle blew to start the game, the crowd was almost silenced as we reaced to a 5:0 lead. The crowd booed every time the referee called against the Australian team. I confess I really don't like this trend.

Approximately 11,000 watched NZ win 53:50 and I'm a very happy supporter. I'm also glad the two Cambridge ladies dressed in Waikato colours who flew over especially to see the game got to see "our team" win.

Photos: outside the Acer Arena - Diamond flags flying

Casey Williams in the old team uniform

Questions People Most Ask

Questions people most ask me:

1. Is it safe to travel to those countries? - meaning Cambodia, Laos, and Cuba etc - I found them safer than I thought. But I try not to take undue risks. Sometimes I’ve been caught out though, like my experience on Tonle Sap Lake in Cambodia and written about here. But that experience is, by far, in the minority.



2. Do you get lonely? Rarely. But, I hasten to add, I do like my own company. If I do feel like conversation, there’s always somebody close by for a chat. Other travelers love to chat and so too do the locals (language permitting). Sometimes the encounters with the locals are very special as in Cambodia (see the hatmaker article), and see the photo below where people in Ninh Binh (Vietnam) lined up for me to take photos of their children. And then there’s skype!



3. What place do you like the most? Phew! That’s almost impossible for me to answer – I could break it up into categories.

i. The best shopping – Mexico City or the markets in Vientiane;
ii. Memorable ruins – Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples are a stand-out, particularly the isolated temples;
iii. Most memorable sunset – supping champagne on the after deck of friends yacht whilst anchored off a gorgeous deserted island in New Caledonia;
iv. Best meal – a Vietnamese hotpot shared with a Singaporean mother and adult daughter in the mountains of Sapa;
v. Best beer – a cold beerlao consumed while watching the sun go down over the Mekong River;
vi. Best coffee, but overall the divine taste of fair trade coffee supped in Laos is excellent;
vii. Best beach – so many.

So many great memories and, one hopes, more to come.

Photos - all Vietnam : Shopping for lanterns in Hoi An

My tailor in Hoi An (just before the accident)

Parents lined their kids up for me to take photos of them in Ninh Binh

Cuba – Top Tips

• Cuba – Top Tips
  
  To vacation in Cuba is like going no-where else because of the time warp the country has been in for the past half century.
  
  I thought the country was beguiling with interesting (and interested) people and I left the country with rich and warm memories.
  
  I’ve jotted down a few of my observations and experiences relating to money, safety, transport, accommodation, (food I’ve covered in earlier articles), what extras to take, the internet and good buys.
  
  Some tips for would be visitors to Cuba:
  
  Money:
  
  Cuba has two currencies: one for tourists and one for locals. Tourists have to use the CUC or Cuban Convertible Peso which can only be purchased in Cuba. The locals use pesos.
  
  Leave your home country with Euro or Canadian Dollars in cash and/or some in traveler’s cheques. Because I was going to be in Cuba for nearly a month, for the first time ever I traveled with several thousand (this time Euro) in cash. I travel with a Travelex card loaded with money http://www.cashpassport.com.au/ but I couldn’t find a machine to accept it.
  
  I was advised to take small denominations but I found that wasn’t necessary as the banks could change larger denominations.
  
  Credit cards work at a few machines (if you can find them). When I used my Australian issued credit card the amount in CUC was converted to US Dollars (which has a 10% commission), then into Australian dollars – ouch – it was an expensive exercise.
  
  Keep lots of small change for tips and to give away. Wages are incredibly low and a tip of 1CUC (approximately $1.30 AU) will help a lot. Bathroom ladies are prevalent and they have a saucer for small change too.
  
  Safety:
  
  As a solo female traveler I am often asked about the safety of a place. Thankfully, I have no horror stories to report, but locals warned me on numerous occasions to take care of my keys, money, hat, bag, camera etc. In old Habana, and to a lesser extent Trinidad, security is very obvious and this helps to keep the city safe.
  
  Local Transport:
  
  Road transportation between the main destinations is not difficult, but it is rather expensive, when compared to similar economies like Cambodia and Laos.
  
  Bus companies Transtur and Viazul operate air conditioned buses and they are reliable and comfortable. Transtur often operates door to door – usually hotel to hotel but when I stayed in a Vinales the bus driver took some trouble to find and drop me off at my casa! Reservations can be made through various tour agencies or directly with the companies.
  
  In Habana, Vinales and Varadero a hop on hop off bus operates. You pay when you get on the first time and its cheap (relative to other travel in Cuba) and an excellent way to see the country.
  
  Accommodation:
  
  Most of the time I stayed in Casa Particulares – (homes of the locals). I recommend looking around for one that suits. I paid between 25-30CUC per night for a very clean private room, air conditioning and attached bathroom with hot water.
  
  For meals at Casas I typically paid 3CUC for breakfasts and 6CUC for dinners. The food provided by my Casa hosts varied and the servings overly generous. Always, they tried to get food I wanted to eat.
  
  My Casa hosts didn’t speak English very well and so my Spanish/English dictionary was rather dog-eared by the end of my trip. It’s very helpful if you know some of the language.
  
  My Casa host would make a booking with their friends at my next destination. Although, in typical Cuban fashion, twice on arrival the promised room was not available, they always found another room for me somewhere else.
  
  Make Sure You Pack:
  
• Your sense of humour.


• Soap (to use as it’s not always offered), small packets of tissues, hand wash (but see my comments in my earlier article), plenty of reading material (books in English are attainable but the supply is very limited), a good conversion plug, a good Spanish/English dictionary and…


• Snacks, snacks and more snacks. I was very pleased I’d stocked up with lots of nuts, dried fruit, crackers, chocolate, biscuits etc. Food is rationed here and the supplies are limited.
  


• I also recommend you pack things to give away. I took supplies of chewing gum and pens and wished I’d taken a lot more as they were very gratefully received. I also took hair decorations and coloured felt pens. You will be asked for things e.g. adults asked me for reading books for their children, food, my tee shirts etc.
  

Internet:

The internet is available but it's slow and expensive and as there are few machines there's a wait – sometimes well over one hour.

In Habana the best places to access the internet is at the hotels where you buy a card, typically for half an hour or one hour. Although the card looks universal, I found that the cards were unique to each establishment meaning any remaining credit couldn’t be used elsewhere.

Sometimes the USB ports worked but many times not.

Good Buys:

Cigars, rum and in some places tee shirts.
Crochet work in Trinidad is excellent and inexpensive in the markets.
Art presented by the artists at the outdoor market off Plaza de Armas is excellent. Negotiation is possible. Great art is also available from Ofelia ORoberto, 19 The Malecon in Habana. Five artists share this space. There are many more small shops selling art. Ensure you have an export certificate for it. They are available from the shop or the agency.
Locally grown organic coffee is excellent and inexpensive.


If you are thinking about going to Cuba, I urge you to do it soon and I hope that you enjoy it as much as I did. If I can help further, please leave me a message and I will be sure to reply. If you have been there, and have a tip to share, feel free to send a message for others to read.

Photo: the art market close to Plaza de Armas

A Romantic Coffee Story

Some time ago I promised a story about coffee. It’s taken awhile but here it is. It’s a sweet tale from those incurable Cuban romantics.

To win the hand of the woman who had captured his heart, a besotted young man had to present an unusual gift to the father of his beloved.

For three years, he sought something truly special to gift his prospective father-in-law. By chance he came upon a magnificent gift; the aromatic black drink of coffee. His father in law was most impressed with the gift and plans were made for a lavish wedding with many influential guests…..(I guess…the story is silent on this point so I have taken writers license!)

From then on the world (and I) discovered the pleasures of savoring the aroma and taste of a cup of coffee.

The Habanan Escorial Café located on the edge of Plaza la Vieja (I’ve written about this world heritage site earlier) has 60 different types of coffee all made from beans grown in the Escambray Mountains in central Cuba. The beans are roasted on the premises. Some choices here include coffee laced with whiskey, cinnamon and cream; Miss Ochun (coffee with banana liqueur and cream); Cupido (coffee with tangerine liqueur) and so on.

This is THE spot for coffee connoisseurs without doubt. It’s excellent coffee and a good people watching spot in a superb location. As I sit I surprise myself by enjoying that all pervading smoke wafting around me from thick, hand rolled Cuban cigars. Where else but in Cuba? Aah the life of a traveler.

Photos: Coffee Escorial Café - note the cigar options available on the menu!
Cappuccino in Mexico. It looks pretty but I gave up after ordering two since they were very milky and had almost no coffee flavour.
A coffee (and a luscious buttery croissant!) from the New Caledonia market at the start of this trip.

Sundry Photos from Cuba

Hello all

Going back to Cuba for awhile just to post some more photos from this extremely photogenic country.

Photos:

Chandelier at yet another Habana casa

I was invited to sit in the chair next to this old man as I was out walking.

The "door" intrigued me, especially when it was open!!!

The entrance to my internet cafe in Vinales.....often places were extremely hard to find and no wonder with this kind of signage!

Vinales - message on school wall for students to be punctual!

Monuments to the liberators are all over Vinales

Trinidad is known for its lovely crochet work. I bought some from this lovely lady

A square in Habana

Mexico City – forget the stereotypes

Mexico City – forget the stereotypes

Mexico City has blown my stereotyped views sky high. Staying in the vibrant Zona Rosa area is quieter than the historic area around the cathedral. The streetscapes are packed with many fabulous sculptures.

Just outside the city (about 50kms north east) is the Teotihuacan pyramid complex which was conceived around 1st century AD and built about 100 years after that. After climbing to the top of the Sun (248 steps!) and Moon pyramids, I awoke the next morning to find that my leg muscles were very stiff and my legs had a mind of their own.

It’s an amazing site showing a glimpse of a former life and so close to the city. Next time I won’t go on a tour so that I have more freedom and time to wander.

In the city, the Museo Nacional de Antropologia is a wonder of information and displays of early history. It would be easy to loose oneself for a day in the excellent displays of early civilization and those depicting the evolution of mankind. Not being all that keen on museums I surprised myself by spending over half a day there and would be happy to return to see what I missed.

Swine flu has decimated tourism here. Several people have said that visitor levels are just 10% of this time last year.

I’m extremely keen to return to this city and to explore more of Mexico.

After a few days in NZ I’ll return to Sydney and must begin the (totally unexpected) search for another job.

Then I will repeat the cycle. Work, travel, work, travel. Aaah what a life this is!

I’m enjoying…….the food here. It’s fresh, tasty and delivered with efficiency and a smile. I’m also enjoying the cooler weather here.

I’m amazed……at just how different Mexico is from my expectations. This country is fascinating. I can’t wait to return.

I’m surprised….that my knowledge and understanding of the Spanish language has grown since I’ve been surrounded by it. It’s still very basic and it is still difficult to make myself understood. The waiters have no patience which is fair enough and they ask if I speak English which I find mildly insulting after my attempts!! Te he. They then converse in my language. However, others are patient and love me trying. I’ve taken to writing in my diary the full date in Spanish and I asked a waiter the other day if what I’d written was correct. He was really happy to tell me that it was! Nice.

I’m looking forward to…….getting back to NZ for a time. Actually by the time I get this published I will be back in the cold.

Photos: Ancient mural

The pyramid - I climbed all 248 steps to the top to see the centuries old sites laid out before me.

Mexico City – my hotel and my location

Mexico City – my hotel and my location

The staff at my hotel, Eurostar Zona Rosa (http://www.eurostarhotels.com/) are fantastic and so too is my hotel which I selected after researching and reading the good reports on http://www.tripadvisor.com/. I love tripadvisor.

It was really difficult to decide where to stay, in this sprawling city of 19 million people. However, I am happy I selected the Zona Rosa area which is in the gay friendly part of town. Despite (or perhaps because of) the massive number of police, armed with huge serious looking guns, and security guards it feels a safe area for a lone tourist.

It’s been lovely staying in this small very friendly hotel which is well located for relatively easy access to key attractions, shops, cafes and a market.

The hotel might be small but there is nothing small about my room, or should I say rooms.

I have a lounge room with a TV, a three seater and two seater couch, microwave, coffee maker etc and then my massive bed made up with pure white starched sheets and another TV etc. Internet is wireless and free which is always a bonus to this traveler.

After Cuba it was extremely exciting to see things in shops and, probably more importantly, things you might want to buy. Yet another reminder of how hard the Cubans have it with their rationing of all manner of things including food.

But in Mexico I was extremely impressed with the silver jewelry and spoiled myself by splurging on a few pieces. What’s more it was difficult to limit myself to just a few such is the creative artistry shown in the design and craftsmanship.

I’m loving….the shops….all glitter, light and lovely displays.

I’m enjoying….all the sculptures in the street. Along the Reforma (a wide tree lined avenue) the seats magnificently sculptured in bronze of many and varied designs. The Mexicans have taken such pride in these pieces of art.

I’m missing…..netball….netball and more netball. Thankfully a friend keeps giving me the competition updates.

I’m surprised…..just how cosmopolitan this city is and how much art’s on display for all to enjoy.

It was touching…...to have the bell hop stand on the side of the street and wave goodbye to me as I was driven to the airport in my taxi. How often has that happened to travelers? It's a first for me....what about you?

Photos: Some ice madam?

Mexican vendor

A Cautionary Tale

Hello all
I’d been traveling for a few months and part of my “stay healthy travel kit” was a bottle of hand sanitizer which I used regularly before eating. Some restaurants, notably in Mexico City, waiters routinely offered its guests a dollop of this lotion from a large bottle.

I’d been congratulating myself on my continued good health when suddenly my hands erupted in several ugly looking sores. The skin on my hands was red and raw in several places, mainly by the joints and down my index fingers.

Naturally I was concerned I'd picked up a skin disease somewhere in my travels. Thankfully, a quick visit to a medical specialist confirmed it was simply a case of washing my hands too often which had depleted the natural oils in my skin. Huh!!

I'd been using the hand sanitizer too often without a corresponding increase in applying hand cream. Using this and other alcohol based washing products had stripped the natural oils from my skin.

For the past three days I've been trying to nourish my hands to restore the balance but they are still a little raw.

The solution for future travels?......... I’ll continue using this hand gel but add in a regular and generous dose of intensive nourishing hand cream!

My first dining experience in Mexico city

My First Dining Experience in Mexico City
It’s always a minor miracle when, in non English speaking countries, the food delivered to my table is what I asked for, or even something close to that! With each success I grin to myself, just a little.

On my first morning here, I waived the easy option of breakfast at the hotel, where staff members speak my language extremely well. Instead I wandered close to my base along the open air mall lined with restaurants and shops.

I entered a restaurant and sat down. None of the staff spoke English. Undaunted, but too tired to make much effort, I ordered coffee and a tortilla (a type of Spanish omelette). My coffee arrived promptly. Then I waited and waited but no food arrived. The waiter hovered and I could tell he was concerned for my welfare but what he was saying was a complete mystery to me.

After some time he said “algo mas?” Ah ha, I know that one - it means “anything else?” I tried to explain that my egg order hadn’t materialized but in my tired state it was too hard.

He then had a brain wave and presented me with a massive basket of breads, croissants and other tasty goodies. I confess, that this time, I took the easy option and selected sugared croissant. So much for a protein based breakfast.

Thankfully it’s not always like that.

I'm loving....the vibe of this city which is completely unexpected.

I'm amazed....at how attentive, professional and caring the restaurant staff are.

I'm reading....ooh some fluff!!! It kept my mind occupied but I can't remember what it was.

I'm missing....all my favourite food. Before I left Cuba I was really missing the easy access to the internet and wireless connections. However, my hotel here in Mexico has free wireless internet. What a bonus! I love that!

sorry no photos to accompany this one. I will try in a day or two or three.

Especially for my Australian Friends

Hello there all my Australian Friends

I was wandering around Habana and could hardly believe my eyes when I looked up and saw the billing for Baz's film "Australia". I toyed....only momentarily ....with going but I resisted. I thought it would have been really funny to see it with a Spanish speaking audience. However, this photo is especially for you!

TOTALLY Chilled....

Totally Chilled…..

I don’t think it would be possible for me to be more relaxed than I am right now. A few nights in Vinales and three nights in Las Terrazas at the Hotel Moka has totally eliminated any residual stress. Not that there was much stress now that I’ve been on vacation for over one month. It feels longer but my calendar tells me it is just a month.

Las Terrazas is an intriguing spot and quite unlike anything else (I’ve seen) in Cuba. It’s an eco resort.

Burning off and bad land management techniques over time, left the small community of around 1000 people living in poor conditions. In the early 70’s a reservoir was created, a model settlement constructed and pines planted to stabilise the hillsides. The government approved an eco-tourism resort and in the 90’s Hotel Moka was sensitively constructed to blend into the hillside. It’s pretty and peaceful…if you ignore the barking dogs that is.

One hundred metres or so from the hotel is an eco/organic vegetarian restaurant – El Romero. A vegetarian restaurant is very rare in Cuba. The food is so divine I went back for several meals. They offer something I would love to see other café’s and restaurants adopt – the option of choosing a small, medium or large portion.

I’ve had an incredibly (plenty of emphasis on the word incredibly!) laid back time in Las Terrazas watching day turn ever so slowly into night and vice versa. As I sat on the deck chair (not rocking this time) I spent hours observing the black hawk like birds swoop gracefully through the trees in front of me. Sometimes they get involved in “fights” chasing smaller birds.

Next I’ll spend a few more days in Habana then Mexico, NZ then Sydney. The temperature here has been mostly around 32 degrees so going back to the cold will be a little bit of a shock. But, I’m told the mountains are covered in snow and so looking across Lake Taupo to the Mts Ruapehu, Ngaruhoe and Tongariro will be a pretty sight; one I always enjoy.

Photos: The Hotel Moka

Another car...this time with bullet holes in the door. There are many cars around with bullet holes.

The Valley of Vinales

According to the itinerary listed for the Vinales hop on hop off bus, after a big loop, my destination is supposed to be the last stop – the La Ermita Hotel where I plan to stay awhile to enjoy the view. But no! It’s the first stop and I’m in time for my morning coffee.

As I got off the bus I was pleased about the blissful peace and quiet. I’m keen to enjoy the magnificent view in peace and solitude and sup a hot, strong coffee.

But this is Cuba and despite the fact that I am the alone in the outside dining space the music begins to blare out; this time it’s a CD. Still the coffee is very good; the view of the valley stretching out below me superb and the hotel looks nice. I had planned to stay here but was swayed by a casa particulares in the valley of Vinales.
When I arrived in Vinales I was a little grumpy (a 7 hour bus ride that turned into 9 didn’t help) but my mood was softened by my handsome, charming and generous casa host offering me a chilled glass of papaya juice and with an arc of his arms said “my casa is your casa; my deck is your deck" etc. I instantly felt embarrassed and humbled.

The casa’s here are close together and many offer accommodation to “turista’s” – probably about ¾ of the houses have signs out. I was excited to meet another kiwi chap staying in the casa next door - the first New Zealander I’ve met on this trip. He comes from Remuera but was in Cuba on vacation from his volunteer teaching work in Costa Rica.

I enjoyed many hours out on the small deck in the front of my casa whiling away the time chatting with the Italians who also stayed two nights and watching the light change over the hills in the distance.
On my first night, replete after a superb dinner, I retired and despite the drone from the air conditioning unit, slept soundly to be woken at 0500 by a rooster in full and glorious voice!

I love the life here; where kids play on the streets; where a woman takes half an hour to pick a few flowers from one bush; where people start and finish their days chatting and watching street activities from their rocking chairs. Twice, as I was out strolling locals invited me to sit in the empty rocking chair beside them. It’s really nice and it makes me realize how frenetic our lives have become.

I’m missing…..the ease of conversing in English. Oh and cappuccino…..its espresso for me.

I’m loving….the gluggy reddish guava paste my hosts serve up for breakfast with fresh bread. Yum…yum.

I’m happy….that I made the trip west to Vinales.

I’m reading….an intriguing novel “Norwegian Wood” by Japanese author Murakami. It’s heavy but exquisitely crafted. I selected it in Trinidad where I had just 8 books to choose from. It’s a find.

I’ve decided….to add Las Terrazas to my itinerary which is about two hours from here. Some tourists I met in Trinidad recommended it and so I’m booked to stay at The Hotel Moka - an eco-tourism resort built in 1992. It’s unique to Cuba and has been a great success providing work opportunities for a small very poor community. I’m keen to check it out and will write more about it later.

Photos:

blue car in the main street.

Horse and cart taken from "my" rocking chair on the deck of my casa particulares. Yes another rocking chair!

The man across the road lighting up. Unlike food, cigars aren't rationed I believe.

The valley of Vinales. Vinales is about four hours west of Habana.

Hola

Hola all
This is just a quick update as I leave the Valley of Vinales....a very pretty town. I am going to Las Terazzas for a few days which is an eco resort about two hours from here. Phew....not the seven hour trip from Trinidad which actually took 9 hours. I was a very tired traveller after that trip. From there Habana again. I will add an article and some more photos from my next stop if I can get access to the internet etc.
By the way...sorry about any errors in my writing....blame it on the heat....writing very quickly....and the keyboards!
Thanks very much for the comments you have left....I´m not sure why they aren´t showing but I appreciate them very much. I like to write but its even nicer when people let me know they are enjoying reading ábout my experiences. Cheers. J

The Train Trip

Hola everyone

Finally I´ve been able to load a couple of items!

Here are a couple of pix from the steam train trip into a valley a few hours away from here. The area has a rather gruesome history with a slave trader earning a fortune from his trading and sugar production. He built a watch tower.

The photos are all from the train trip. Imagine OSH allowing tourists to ride on the cab of a train!

Quaint, Cruisey Trinidad

I felt invigorated to be here, from the moment my air-conditioned bus bumped and maneuvered its way into town along the narrow quaint cobbled streets of Trinidad.

Once again I’ve chosen to stay at a casa and my hosts are wonderful. They speak little English. In fact I think the language imbalance is more in my favour than theirs so there’s lots of gesturing and smiles, and even more unsaid. There’s much I want to ask but the language barrier does not permit that. I had planned to be here three nights but instantly extended it to five and Bianca’s face lit up when I asked to stay longer. How nice!

The food is outstanding here too and they are keen to please, but don’t invade my privacy. Here are the contact details – Bianca Del Pino Sandoval, 112 Francisco Peterssen Phone (53) (01) (41) 992430. The family have lived in this home since 1850!

Ah….as I read all of the details on the card, it notes that there is hot and cold water 24 hours. Hmmm now I wonder why I’ve been having cold showers. Could it be that I didn’t turn on the tap marked “C” which in English stands for cold but here its caliente which means hot? Fria is cold. Or is it that I didn’t run the water for long enough? In Habana I was advised to run the tap for between 1 and 30 minutes to get the hot water through.

But I digress. My room is large, light, airy and is comfortable. It’s exceptionally charming in a rustic way. I have frilly shiny pink satin bedspreads topped with red satin heart shaped cushions. Its lovely to be here and the home is scrupulously clean and very central to everything here in Trinidad.

On my first night here I slept for 12 hours straight. In the early morning, in that delicious state, as I drifted in and out of sleep I was vaguely aware of alien sounds outside. It was a surreal experience. I heard roosters crowing, children calling cheerfully to one another, a man shouting “paper, paper” as he wandered down the street selling door to door, and the echo of horse’s hooves as they clip clopped down the ancient cobbled streets. Not for the first time whilst journeying, as I awakened to welcome a new day, I was ever so slightly disoriented by these unusual sounds.

Every house here it seems, and this one is no exception, has a number of rocking chairs, in their lounges, on decks and in the enclosed courtyards. They get a lot of use too. I know this because I can see through the houses to the courtyards out the back through the white (usually) wrought iron bars used so they can keep doors and windows open to any breeze yet have some security. Locals stand at the bars, or sit in their rocking chairs and watch the outside activity, or stop awhile for a neighbourly chat.

I whiled away many hours on “my” balcony in the wrought iron rocking chair. The balcony opens off my room via three sets of very tall double doors and is “the spot” for catching a breeze as it wafts by.

On my first outing, I happened across a nice café; Cafeteria Las Begonis which has long opening hours so it was good for my mid morning coffee (excellent) and also later in the day for a bottle of the very good local brew (Cristal) to cool down.

Horse and cart is by far the most prevalent form of transport here and, out on the street, it takes awhile to get used to the smell. Having said that, I’ve seen no dung, so its obviously cleaned up quickly. The locals are constantly cleaning street frontages and courtyards. Many horses are painfully thin and they stand patiently waiting for their owners to load up the cart with another consignment. There are bikes and some cars too but not in the same numbers.

I’ve was contented staying at that casa and enjoyed just wandering the streets and observing. This town, sandwiched between the Sierra del Escambray mountains and the Caribbean .....14 kms away.....is a special spot.

I’m loving…..different sights and sounds in this laid back town.

I’m enjoying….not wearing a watch.

Best coffee… EVERYWHERE. Except for Varadero the coffee’s been excellent.

I’m reading….a lighthearted read…… “Always the Bridesmaid” by Sarah Webb. It made me laugh and lives up to its dust cover blurb which states it’s an excellent book to take on holiday. After reading it I was able to trade the book with a local. ALWAYS a bonus when on the road and like to read.

Photos....All Trinidad and of course my rocker......

Cuba...oh the food.

The food….or I should say ooooh the food.

Whilst it’s true that no-one comes to Cuba for the food, the traveler has the expectation of being able to find food at meal times.

I must say that at the beginning at least, it was trial and error. Often the menu displayed at establishments looked rather promising, but it’s a show. Several times now I have been tempted into a place and ordered but the waiter shakes his head rather sadly and says “sorry, no that’s not possible”.

On my first evening here I was lulled into a false sense of security when I ordered fish and vegetables. It was my first choice and was absolutely divine. I rather rashly concluded things had improved since my friend Suzanne’s visit and her advice to take snacks; plenty of them. I’m glad I did.

In Habana (this is how the locals refer to their capital city so I will continue to use that spelling); I ended up having a sweet cake for breakfast, and that was certainly not my first choice. I’d been wandering for over two hours and was desperate; many more listed items were unavailable.

For another breakfast I ordered the least offending item on the menu; a toasted cheese and tomato sandwich. The bread was a very unappetizing yellow colour! Thank goodness for all the nuts I bought in the USA.

At one establishment (the waiter said it was a very good restaurant and it looked it) I ordered fish and vegetables which the waiter assured me was available. Soon I overheard the waiter on the phone asking for vegetables. Some time later, some beans arrived on a plate and presented to the waiter. I swear these exact same beans were incorporated into my sautéed veges. The fish – it was wedged between ham and cheese (!!!) and deep fried in bread crumbs. Now that’s a first. Yikes!

After writing this, in Varadero, I happened upon the Barracuda restaurant beside the beach where I ate red snapper, prepared simply. It was DIVINE. It’s also difficult to imagine more superb setting in the world.

Aside from the Barracuda Restaurant, my very best food experiences have been at casa particulares (homes of locals) and I ate in. What a refreshing contrast! Another of the many contrasts here in Cuba. The food was tasty and plentiful.

For breakfast my Habana host, Pepe, was able to secure, pineapple, mango, bananas, guava, watermelon etc. For dinner I had fried (the most popular method of cooking) chicken, cucumber, beetroot, kumara, tomato, cabbage etc. Many vegetables are organic and what flavour! My casa hosts never join me at the table which feels extremely uncomfortable.

Likewise at my casa hosts in Trinidad were truly wonderful. The meals are absolutely superb and such variety. Again, the food is put on the table and I am left to eat it.

The people are truly kind, and having a “turista” gives them more rights to particular food, quantity and of course (much needed) additional money.

As an aside, casa’s are registered with the government and my personal details are noted.

I´m missing.....toast!

I´m loving....the honey. It´s sublime and if NZ and Australia didn´t ban it....I would bring back a supply.

Photos ' The Cuban flag and ¨Che¨

A couple of random photos

Some random photos ' the roses ' in relief, my bedroom chandelier ' first casa.

The star ....this is in the Capitol Building and all distances in Cuba are measured from this point.

Just a couple of random photos. The tiles are from the bathroom in my first casa particulares. The detail here was just superb.

Casas are an excellent way to experience life with the locals but still as a ¨turista¨(tourist). In each place I have had aircon, en suite and in some cases a balcony for my exclusive use. They are all fantastic hosts and very proud to have visitors. I love it. Of course, one gives up a little freedom....but not much.

By the way....I´m in Trinidad now and loving it. I planned to stay for three nights but have just extended it to five. Tomorrow I´m off on a steam train journey into whats promoted as a very pretty trip.

Hopefully will have an update and some photos (of Trinidad) from this very historic and picturesque town of around 55,000 residents and the train trip.