Weekend Treats

Weekend Treats



I've been having a great ole time exploring. I went down to Wollongong for one weekend, Melbourne for another and last weekend walked the Bronte to Bondi Beach stretch again.



The train to Wollongong takes about one half hours - just enough time to leave the city behind and dream about visiting a new place by the sea. I had a beaut time catching up with Mum and Dad and other relatives. Mum had been there for 3 nights already so she had a favourite cafe and it quickly became my "fav" too. The coffee was excellent; the food a tasty mix of Greek and Australian. We were spoilt for cafe choice in this vibrant seaside community.



Back in Sydney I went to see My Fair Lady. Ooh what a treat. We had really great seats and the show was as foot tappingly wonderful as ever. I first saw it as a child and it was lovely to become re-acquainted with it. This production was very professional and fast moving with fantastically beautiful costuming.



Last weekend it was Melbourne's turn and of course the main reason for being in town was to see the netball....but I've already written about that.



They take the arts and coffee very seriously in this sophisticated city. Fantastic sculptures of all sorts are dotted around the walk ways and parks. As it was close to Melbourne Cup time, I was interested to see the magnificently crafted hats in the shops. They were noticeable in cafes too as women sat to rest awhile, their meticulous white hat boxes taking pride of place on the table top. I was not game enough to ask for a peep but it was ever so tempting!



Where to take my coffee stops was a constant challenge because there are many to choose from and I didn't want to waste a break in a sub-standard cafe. My sister introduced me to one. I am glad she accompanied me to My-ko cafe which is in a little back street off Bourke and close to King Street. They are very proud to serve fair trade coffee. My cappuccino was lovely with sweet notes on the palate. The hosts are very friendly and I loved the booth style table seating.



My other coffee find was Brother Baba Budan at 359 Little Bourke Street http://www.brotherbababudan.com.au/. Coffee IS their business. The crema on my long black looked (and was) thick and caramelly. The coffee was rich with complex flavours alighting my taste buds. Although the coffee was the highlight, being in the cafe itself was not an overly pleasant experience because it was too crowded. I was extremely impressed to note though, that when the barista changed, she brewed a "taster" for the manager to critique.



Then last weekend I was again on the Bronte to Bondi Beach walk to see the annual Sculpture by the Sea exhibition. What a joy! Such wonderful creativity presented in harmony with the cliff faces, parks, sea and rock-scape. I loved it. This is its twelfth year anniversary and it's on for about three weekends so if you're planning a trip to Sydney around this time next year, I would definitely recommend trying to combine it with this exhibition. Pam and Allan and I finished off (as you do) with a long lunch at Bondi Beach. What a great way to finish a superb day.



It's an interesting life and I haven't even had time to tell you about the course I am doing in Aborigine Culture. It is confronting; it's fascinating; it's extremely interesting.....maybe another time......



I'm missing........good bread. I can't find any - even the Baker's delight is different.



I'm loving........how close I am to everything here at my wee little place in Bondi Junction.

The newspapers are full of..........various scandals, news about how broke the NSW Government is and - last week the Melbourne Cup (from days and days before the event), the US elections etc



I'm surprised.........how much attention is given to the execution and comment around and about regarding the Bali bombers....I find it quite, quite offensive.



I'm reading..........Nothing!!!

Photos: My-Ko coffee
Images from Sculpture by the Sea

Airport Pet Hates

Airport Pet Peeves

I love travelling....but there are some things that remain constant irritants and "life as a flash packer" would be even better if airlines and those in charge of airports accommodated our needs a little more. Here are some of of the things that irritate me as I journey around the world:

1. Cafes where you order food and drinks but have to carry it all to the table yourself. Hey guys - think about this - we are travelling and that means extra hand baggage which also means it is much more difficult for us to conduct this juggling act. It's especially challenging for single travellers because its impossible to safely take a table and leave a few things then go up to the counter to make the food/drink decisions. If you forget something crucial to make the meal an enjoyable experience (like cutlery/salt, sugar etc) - retrieving it is damn near impossible if you travel alone - it's often not worth the hassle!

2. Queues. Queues to check in, queues to get through security, queues to get on the plane and then repeat it again to get off.

3. Small seats. AND its even worse if an overweight person sits beside you. Or, someone hogs the limited space - like chaps spreading legs widely - or those who take over the arm rest.

4. Automatic check-in. Actually I LOVE them when I don't have luggage. But as soon as I have luggage it warrants a listing in my pet peeves because it's another transaction I have to juggle and get in a queue to "bag drop" - if only it was just a bag drop. There HAS to be an easier way to do this.

5. Insufficient leg room. My knees are frequently jammed against the seat in front of me (OK ...OK, I am a coach/economy traveller!). Then with my knees touching the back of the seat, the passenger in front of me reclines their seat and crunches my tender kneecaps. Ouch!

6. Trays being left too long after the meal has finished.

7. The price of airport food and drinks. What is is about airports that they must charge us 20-50% more? Grrrrr.

8. When everyone is settled and the plane is ready to go (on time) but it can't leave because some inconsiderate passenger decided their time is more important and stayed too long in the duty free shops or bar. MAJOR irritation.

9. Small toilet cubicles. Travellers need a little more space. They also NEED hooks on the door.

I'm sure you will have your own list. If you want to...let me know - it's easy to leave a comment on my site and I will add your "pet peeve" to the list. You never know we might get a ground swell of "issues" and get some change......

What a Result....

What a result…..

Netball tests between NZ and Australia are legendary. The Ozzies are the world champions, as they took the title off us during the last world championships in Auckland. When you look at the head to head statistics between the two teams Australian wins far outnumber ours. They have won 53 past encounters and NZ 36.

But….for this game we triumphed (46 to 41) and I was there in Melbourne to watch it! Just look at that scoreboard. It was great. During the first quarter, it was definitely their game to win as they snaffled the ball with outstanding skill, keeping us scoreless for much of the first quarter. In fact for the first ten minutes they restricted us to just 3 goals. The crowd crowed, I was in shock. I was wondering if "my girls had come to play?"

But, staunch as ever, Coach Ruth Aitken made some changes and one of those was to bring Lianna Barret-Chase on at WA for her first cap. She was superb and strong. It’s very exciting to see a new cap come on and immediately stamp her mark on the game. She will be a huge force to be reckoned with once she fine tunes feeding the ball into the circle.

Several of Melbourne's superb sporting facilities are within easy walking distance of the city centre and I had a lovely stroll along the Yarra to reach the Hisense Arena. Being surrounded by cheering and booing (when the umpire decisions went against their team) was an interesting experience but in the main it was all very good natured and a slightly subdued crowd filed out of the arena.

Like all games between these two teams – netball was the winner. That we won while I was there to watch was sweet. After strolling back along the river, I just had to stop awhile and treat myself to champagne and a nice dinner at a restaurant beside the river.

I'm missing.......good after match coverage in the newspapers. I did find a couple of articles this time but it was just the comments of the Australian captain and coach. While these are great there was no independent match analysis. Actually there was nothing before the match either.

I'm loving........Catching up with family over here.

I was disappointed.............They wouldn't allow photographs in the arena so sorry, no shots of the game or the girls. But one of my bag!

Next.........I've been away the last two weekends so I will do an article on that. Both weekends where great. This weekend I'm going on the Bronte to Bondi Beach walk again to see the annual sculpture display. Ooh and I have a list of pet airport peeves.....Now that's worth waiting for.... and I am sure you will want to add your own pet peeves.

Is Age Just a Number on a Piece of Paper?

Is Age Just a Number of a Piece of Paper?

The other morning as I reclined back in bed with a steaming cup of tea, I let my thoughts wander freely.

I was thinking about age and about how, like many boomers, I really don't feel my age.

Earlier in the year when I was in Asia, I mixed with people a few decades my junior and the communication was seamless so unless I am confronted with age, I don't think about it much. In fact, I'm of the view that it's more about attitude than a number. Only the mirror tells me otherwise....and occasionally the attitude or comments of others.

The day was inclement and still in my philosophical space I wandered down the road to see the hyped movie of the moment "The Duchess". When I finally reached the front of the queue I was amazed to be charged $12.50 for the ticket. It seemed cheap but since this was the first movie I've seen since arriving in Sydney, I had no benchmark and accepted the price. I took my seat and for some reason I looked at the ticket and was shocked.....it was for a senior citizen! Oh my did that slash through my philosophical "I don't feel my age" moment of earlier. As an aside, does Kiera Knightley have only one expressions for pain or humiliation (of which there were many opportunities) - that of someone about to throw up! It was quite off-putting.

This past weekend I had another first for this trip - the walk from Bronte to Bondi Beach. Before going to Bronte I stopped by the old Victorian Cemetery at Waverley. It was there I spotted the magnificent marble monument of Alexander MacKenzie who was tragically killed by a stagecoach in 1884. He was just 54 years of age. He has a marvellous resting place.

Just below the cemetery is Bronte Beach; a cafe lover's haven where I had my choice of ten or so cafes. I didn't notice the name of the one I'd selected until after ordering - The Bogey-Hole Cafe. Is this a reference to golf or something altogether too disgusting to think about when waiting for food?

Back on the track, the very pretty walk hugs the coastline and dips in and out of alluring beaches. Interesting rock features abound. On a previous visit I walked from Coogee to Bondi Beach with my friend Ross. We thoroughly enjoyed it. It was hot that day and unfortunately we were under time pressure so couldn't stop for long anywhere. This time though I was able to take as long as I liked.

So, after sustenance at Bronte, the Tamarama Beach Cafe beckoned me. Tamarama Beach has been nicknamed Glamourama because of the beautiful people who frequent it but this day they were obviously enjoying a champagne breakfast elsewhere. This pocket sized beach has a couple of volleyball courts marked out and some fit enthusiastic foursomes played competitively.

As I sat there on the edge of the beach, relishing my excellent long black and enjoying the spectacle before me, I contemplated the world yet again. I felt no desire to swap places with the energetic foursomes. Would my feelings about swapping, I mused, be any different a few decades or so earlier....during the time I sauntered around in short short skirts? ....I doubt it. I like this stage of my life.

I'm enjoying.......exploring new places. I've been getting off the bus a few stops before the Uni and wandering around Randwick.

Taste sensation.........gorgeous rock melon.

I'm reading what book?.......A Parrot in the Pepper Tree by Chris Stewart. He's the author of Driving over Lemons which is a best seller about setting up an organic farmlet in Spain. It's great.

I'm surprised........over a news report stating Australian's have about 50-60% of their wealth in superannuation. Oh my...wouldn't kiwis love to be in that position?

Very special.......one of the lovely ladies at work gave me a CD the other day. It's Gunyah by John Williamson. She gave it to me because of the song about Emu's and Kiwi's. The lyrics go something like "the Emu's and the Kiwis stick together like glue - when tempers fray on a summers night if you pick on one you pick on two....the Kiwi's and the Emu". It's lovely and all the more special because Maria gave it to me.

The Plan Continues - Sydney

The Plan Continues – Sydney

I’ve been here in Sydney for about six weeks now and loving it. Of course living in Bondi is such a cliché for a kiwi but it’s fantastic for me as I am a few minutes away from the massive Westfield shopping centre, quick access to beaches (Bronte and Bondi) and a short bus ride to work. The city is just ten minutes away by train.

I hear a little talk of a recession and tough times but on the weekend the Mall is jam packed with people. Just before opening time at 10am people are standing around waiting to get in. The people buying at Harvey Norman’s or Dick Smith’s don’t seem to think there is a problem – and the stores are always full.

I’m enjoying my job at the University too. I’m writing and getting paid for it! It’s extremely interesting work too. Of course me being me, I completely altered the content, look and feel of their policies so it was a nail biting time while I waited to see their reaction to the first few. Thankfully they really like my approach. Even so, I must say that after nine months of such delicious freedom it has been rather challenging for me to work an eight hour day.

That said, I really don’t think I could have written a better script for myself! Oh…perhaps if I was able to report that I was sailing regularly in these beautiful waters around here that would be an even better outcome. That remains elusive so it’s obviously not my time to be out on the water.

What is definitely panning out for me though is leaving a regular job to replace it with something much more elastic and tenuous. I like the “possibility” that comes with this type of life. Even though I was extremely scared at the time, I am so glad I took this punt and that it is working out for me right now.

I’ve had many visitors too and it’s been great to spend some time with them in this vibrant city.

Last weekend Suzanne was over and so we took a ferry trip. She owns a leather handbag manufacturing company and is starting a blog about a wandering bag so I helped out by holding it up in odd places to capture some photos for her to use. The people around us thought we were crazy but we had fun.

I loved the bag so much that I bought it off her and now it will have different adventures! It’s one of those perfect bags with special spaces for everything I need. Once, after deciding I was carrying around too much "stuff", I bought a small handbag. The theory being I would just ration what I carried around with me. It didn't work for me! I frequently had to leave the zip open or carry important things in my hand. I was so relieved once I realised my "small handbag experience" wasn't working and I could be true to myself with a larger version. My new bag is large and it kinda reminds me of my old schoolbag - except this is a beautiful and very pleasing colour - one that will complement most of my clothes. Here’s Suzanne's website featuring some other bags - www.konev.co.nz.

My plan is to work here until March or April next year then pick up where I left off and travel to Eastern Europe for a few months and then repeat the work/travel cycle. I am keen to continue doing this for as long as I can as I have many more places I want to explore. It’s a beaut existence.

I’m loving…..Living the dream. It’s wonderful that I have been able to arrive in a country and have my skills highly valued, and so very quickly.

I’m reading…...Lonely Planet Eastern Europe book to research the next travel segment.

Taste sensation……Yummmmm….where do I start? Raisin toast, cherry tarts, eating divine cherries and strawberries (in September!); anything from the roast nut stands. Add to this list Greek style fetta and yoghurt and Portuguese tarts (custard nestled in a light crispy filo style pastry). Of course all of the “bad” things are taken in moderation!

Good restaurant…..The Bondi Social Club – very well presented tapas style food. If you get a terrace table the view over the beach is excellent. The toilets are not recommended though!

Best Coffee……A little erratic but coffee from one of the Uni’s cafes is pretty good. The coffees quite good just down the road from me at the Curious Cat – yes complete with a cat that pays rent for the best and sunniest spot.

I’m missing……the Friday afternoon drinks and nibbles after work. Hey…here we even get to buy our own supplies of tea and coffee so as you can imagine I will NEVER be offered a glass of wine to finish up a week. Besides…I think it’s probably not allowed……I must check (or write) a policy!
Speaking of wine I am also missing not being able to buy it at the supermarket. Buying it at a bottle shop almost feels like a criminal activity.

In the newspapers…..heaps on politics. When Sarah Palin was announced as McCain’s running mate there was page after page after page on them. There’s been lots of upheaval here in state and federal politics and so that dominates at the moment.

I’m disappointed…….(extremely) to see that even when the Australian netball team won against NZ that they rated a few centimeters in the papers. When there was some big jock sports awards the wife’s/partners of the jocks got huge coverage – for their dresses, legs and cleavage!

I’m extremely excited….to be going to Melbourne in a couple of weeks time to see a NZ/Australia netball match. Bring it on!!!

Don't Blink or You Won't Keep Up!

Phew!!! I'm back on the road and in Sydney, Australia and what a week I've just had.

I have a J.O.B.! Within three days of being here I was offered and accepted a position at the prestigous University of New South Wales. I will be using my interviewing, training and writing skills as a Policy Writer. I begin tomorrow.

Frankly, I was amazed to find work so easily (and it may have been a fluke that this position was available just when I was ready), because although my qualifications and experience are excellent, it is a general background. I thought this lack of specialisation would count against me. Not so. The hardest question they asked me was "give me a couple of titles of positions you would like". "Gosh...I don't know" I would say...."I can do this or this or this but to give them titles is not possible". Without fail they accepted that and went into bat for me. Anyway...I now have this six month contract and am looking forward to the challenge of doing something new. I thrive on this change.

I thoroughly enjoyed the Balmain area but had to move because of the difficulty in getting to and from the University. It's an eclectic mix of cafes, boutique shops and services housed in picturesque old buildings. It flows down to the water. Some other time I'd like to stay awhile there.

Instead, I've taken a lease on a place in Bondi Junction. Its incredibly central and reasonably close to the University. But....the downside of having a base for the next six months is I'm nesting. Horrors! I've even purchased cushions! So....just after divesting myself of all possessions unable to be squeezed into a suitcase, I'm buying again. Top of the list was beautiful sheets and a colorful duvet cover.

I'm loving.......being back on the road again. But....travelling and simply observing is very different to travelling and working.

I'm missing.....Olympic coverage with a NZ bias. Here its Australia, Australia and more Australia. Not that I think that's unreasonable due to the size of their team but something about other countries would be nice.

Best coffee......A few places in Balmain. The Bakehouse Cafe (the name belies a quasi sophisticated place) with great food and excellent coffee. Down the road Bertoni always had a queue so before I left went there and I cannot understand the fuss. Very average coffee.

I'm surprised.....absolutely gob smacked actually at how quickly I've scored a good job and accommodation. I must have several angels looking after me.

The papers and the media here are.....full of the Olympics and the Sonny Bill Williams episode.

Next I'll let you know how I cope with being a working woman after eight months of leisure.

Hanoi Scam Alert

Scam Alert


I did a very brave thing this morning. Or, perhaps, it was a very stupid thing as my actions had me quaking after several minutes.

But first, a little background. Yesterday I took a metered taxi, (which is the recommended way to travel to avoid rip-offs), from the Old Quarter in Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. I know this area reasonably well now and he seemed to take a fairly direct route. However, when we stopped and he told me the cost of the trip it was considerably higher than I thought it should have been. Nonetheless I shelled out the money. He demanded a tip out of the change too.

Once I left the cab, I realized that I had been ripped off! In fact I’d paid 6 times what I should have and I couldn’t blame anyone but myself for not recognizing the scam and challenging the scumbag. I was so cross with myself.

Then, this morning I was sitting in Gloria Jean’s (the best place I’ve found around here for coffee) and I looked through the window to see the likely lad.

I quickly gathered my things and went outside and confronted him. What was I thinking?

I told him he’d taken me for a ride (figuratively and literally) the previous day and he had ripped me off. I asked him for my money back. Of course, he suddenly had difficulty understanding English when the previous day his command had been excellent. He refused to refund me saying that he had no money. I didn’t expect to see the money anyway, I just wanted to make a point.

I demanded to see his taxi card and his drivers license. He refused. Meantime, many people gathered around us to see what the fracas was all about. I stood my ground and kept asking to see his documents. When he shook his head, I said “OK, I just wait here” and I folded my arms across my chest and stood my ground. I was hoping the police would come by.

After awhile in this stand off position, he wandered down the road. I don’t know what I planned, but I followed him, my legs still shaking. He leaned into the car window of one of his taxi driver mates and got into the passenger seat and he was driven off.

However, before he disappeared I got a reasonably good photo of him. I also snapped the sign written car and the number plate of the taxi he was in. I tried calling this number but no luck – they didn’t understand English. I also tried to enlist the people in reception at my hotel but they wouldn’t help.

However, I have registered my complaint with the Vietnam Tourist Authority and they have his photo and that of the signwritten car.

That’s about as much as I can do. I feel vindicated by taking this action. Hopefully they will take some action and use this photo to rid him from the tourist industry. Cities like Hanoi generating massive revenue from tourism don’t need this type of scam.

I share my story with other travelers and with you to be alert when traveling by taxi in this city. Every person I talk to has a taxi scam tale to tell including meters suddenly leaping in number of kilometers traveled, agreed fares increasing markedly etc. It’s not good.

What a Way to Have a Face Peel

What A Way to Have a Face Peel…..

After tripping and falling, my face looked like I’d gone 15 rounds with Mike Tyson.

I saw a great many doctors in five different hospitals – four in Vietnam and one in New Zealand. After receiving a couple of rather gloomy predictions (saying I’d need plastic surgery in two/three places on my face) meant I wasn’t all that optimistic of making such a great recovery. But I have! In fact, in the last week friends have said “what’s all the fuss been about?”

Sure I still have a couple of scars but I think that my healing is nothing short of miraculous. Most of my face had abrasions - what a way to have a face peel! Although there is still some question about whether I’ll need surgery on my nose, a decision on that will be made later.

I was flown home (thank goodness for excellent insurance cover) for check-ups and that has been good. I’ve been able to heal and relax at home which has been all good and I am now very well rested.

Back in Hoi An I was surrounded by caring people – locals and a NZ nurse followed the bikes to the hospital and were there to help and comfort me. The chap from reception at the hotel also came to the hospital and wouldn’t leave my side. They were all simply wonderful.

Getting to the hospital was a mini adventure in itself. I was knocked unconscious during the fall but when I came to I remember being put on the back of a motor bike. When I realized they had a second bike lined up beside me I rapidly regained my focus (sure!). They had one bike for my bottom and one for my feet. When I realised the plan to take me on two bikes I shouted at them (they didn't deserve that and I hope they forgive my reaction)! Then I blacked out again and the next thing I remember was being sandwiched between to chaps on the back of ONE bike. I think I fainted again because when I became conscious I was in a hospital bed. I have no idea who those men were but I am so very grateful to them and to the other locals who rallied around me. Of course there is much more to tell but I don’t want to bore you with it all.

My adventure is not over. In fact I am even more keen to get back on the road than I was before (if that’s possible). At this stage I am not sure where or when I’ll go. Meantime I’ve gone from temperatures in the high 30’s to, at times, single digits back here. But with these cooler temperatures I’m loving the freshness in the air.

The snow on the Mt Ruapehu, south of Taupo, where I’m based right now, looks absolutely sublime and it will be a bumper ski season for both the north and south islands. Great for skiers and boarders. Check it out on http://www.snowreport.co.nz. .


I’m surprised…..at how exhausted I really was after my trials and I began to relax at home. I’m also surprised at how much damage a wee trip can do. It really was a good decision to come back for awhile.

Food sensation……there’s a lot of competition for this spot actually but the overall winner would have to be beetroot – eaten in sandwiches, with salads…in fact just about everything…..whole, sliced, grated……Yum.

Best coffee….where do I start? These are all fantastic. At Tauranga and the Mount – Gana, Deck Chair, SideWalk and Mediterrano. In Rotorua – Capers. In Taupo Body Fuel is my favourite and I grace that café with my presence everyday. Fantastic.

I’m loving…..being around family and friends. I’m also loving being able to walk down the street unimpeded by stuff all over the foot path and being able to cross the road easily. Oh…and I’m loving driving again. After several months of being a passenger it’s great to be behind the wheel again.

Best sight……Flying into Auckland. As usual the countryside looked so green and being bounded by a couple of harbours it was fantastic to look down on the water.

I’m excited……that a parcel I posted home from Laos arrived safely yesterday. It was so exciting to be here to unwrap it and distribute the gifts myself. I’d forgotten what I’d packed in the box so it was all a big surprise!

Questions I’m most asked…….What was the best place you visited? Actually I change my mind about that – it could be Luang Prabang, Sapa, Halong Bay, Ninh Binh or Siem Reap – but not necessarily in that order. What did you miss most? Again difficult – food would be beetroot and cheese, other things – ease of communication in English.

I’m reading…..more Lonely Planet guides…..

Photos..... Auckland from the top of Rangitoto, a koru (the koru unfurl to become ponga fronds) and Tawharanui - a fabulous reserve (and one of my favourite places) north of Auckland.

Patchwork Face

Patchwork Face

I was in Hoi An and after a couple of lovely days in this fabulous town of tailors (which I made excellent use of too), I tripped and fell. I have multiple facial abrasions, black eye, stitches in a few places and a broken nose.
For a variety of reasons it was decided I should be sent via air ambulance from Hoi An to Saigon - or Ho Chi Minh City for further treatment and a cat scan. It was all very dramatic. Thankfully the scans shown no skull fracture.
I am spending the majority of my time in a hotel close to the very good clinic where I need to go each day for dressings and to be checked.
I'm doing OK. My wounds are healing well and although I am still extremely tired, swollen and must rest, my spirits are excellent.
I have many articles I'd written days (or should that be weeks ago) ready for a little further polish before adding them to my website and depending upon the energy levels I may be able to put them on. They are starting to mount up actually - Stunning Halong Bay, Surprising Ninh Binh, Hue - which would have to be the hassle capital of Vietnam and of course laid back Hoi An where I've left behind clothes at a couple of tailors.
I am very disappointed that my time there was shortened as I planned to stay there for several more days. And I missed seeing the ancient ruins of the Kingdom of Champa - My Son which is very disappointing.

As the articles are nearly ready, I might find the energy to post some......maybe......Keep looking.

Photo: the plane I was taken on from Danang to Saigon (Just two crew, two medical staff and me strapped in a stretcher (and hooked up to oxygen) on the floor!

More Photos From Bac Ha

This was such an amazing market I decided to add a few more photos. Hope you like them.

1. Worker in cornfield

2. Buying wool

3. The yolks and tops waiting for buyers.

Going Back in Time - The Bac Ha Markets

.

A Trip Back in Time – the Bac Ha Market
North West Vietnam



The three hour mini bus trip from Sapa to the Bac Ha markets was full of drama. We experienced an impasse between a truck and our vehicle on a one way bridge; later our driver called the police to sort out a problem. These and other such challenges are not unusual on these busy narrow roads in northern Vietnam. Sometimes the muddy roads had deep pot holes forcing our driver to find another way to pass or risk getting stuck. As in many of my journeys, the road was windy, narrow, there were perilously steep drops to the valleys way below us. There were no barriers to protect a wayward vehicle and its passengers which added to the drama.

Horns are used a lot in Vietnam and our driver pressed his so frequently you would think he was paid on a per use basis. But this horn wasn’t the kind to press for a sharp one off “parp” sound to alert someone or something. Our horn went on and on for several seconds playing an annoying little tune. After awhile, we could almost predict when he would use the noise machine; to chase pedestrians, goats, water buffalo, chickens, pigs, push bikes, horse and carts or motor cyclists out of the way. It was also frequently used as we approached a blind corner. As a mini bus, we seemed to command greater rights to the roads over almost anything else – except of course a bigger bus. I often wondered how the Vietnamese in these rural villages feel about the “flash” tourists screaming through their villages ordering them, with noise, to get out of our way. It doesn’t rest easily with me.

Part way through our journey we reach a one lane bridge which was controlled by lights. When the lights turned green it was our turn to cross and we edged forward but when we were about two thirds of the way across we were forced to a standstill by a truck coming the opposite way. The truck driver tried to force his way through. Duh! There was no way through and so for many minutes there was an impasse as each driver shouted and waved frantically at the other to back up. It was so funny to watch. After some time, our driver began to reverse but because we had the right of way there were many vehicles backed up behind us all waiting for a solution. After several minutes the bridge guard wandered down and ordered the truck driver to back up. However, even that wasn’t easy. I couldn’t watch as I swear this was the first time he had backed his truck as in his retreat he wove left then right rather haphazardly and even scraped the side of the grey bridge. I reckon he was either a novice driver or he’d been consuming too much of the highland tribes moonshine.

About three hours after leaving Sapa we arrived at Bac Ha and the markets. What a bright busy, bustling sight!

The women here dress in traditional native clothing and this is not just for show day as they wear this gear when working in the fields. Their headgear too is magnificent.

The most visible in and around the market because of their colourful dress are the Flower H’mong, so named because their clothing looks like a flower. Even the long sleeves on their tops are boldly hand embroidered. Around the neck they wear a wide yolk which too is intricately patterned in many hues. Sometimes the yolks, which are about 40cm in width, have extra trimmings added to the edge or additional baubles. Their widely gathered, full circle skirts, again multi coloured are embroidered with floral motifs and they swish as they walk. They are a wonder to see. Despite the thick pervading mud underfoot I noticed that they are able to keep the bottom clean and dry which is more than I managed, even though I rolled up my trousers.

Being there is like taking a huge leap back in time. This is a market for the locals but it has evolved some (but not a lot) to cater for the tourists. However locals still outnumber tourists and many of the stalls exist specifically for them. This is a rural economy and so there are hoe heads for sale, water buffalo, cows, dogs, small horses along with food supplies and much more.

My eyes swivel this way that trying to imprint the images on my mind. This was sensory overload of the kind I have rarely experienced! After awhile I calmed down because no matter where I looked there was a feast of richly coloured and varied sights to take in. The dress, noise, tantalizing aromas of food being cooked, locals weighing up purchasing decisions for the weeks ahead, watching the process of them bargaining and then loading up their horses or wagons for the trip back home are all alluring sights, sounds and smells.

There are many piles of tobacco for sale in differing shades of brown and tan. Adjacent to these mounds rest large bamboo pipes which are stained charcoal through much use. They are about a metre long and prospective buyers squat or sit in front of the tobacco to try before they buy.

The main form of transportation here is foot, horse, and horse and cart. I saw many horses laden ready for the sometimes long trip back home. Sometimes these hill tribe ethnic minorities walk for days to get here.

Apparently moonshine is available at this market. The locals have a reputation for the manufacture and supply of alcoholic home brews which they make from rice, cassava and corn. There’s an entire area set aside for the sale but I didn’t come across it. Later I heard that often, on the trip back home, the local women walk ahead leading a horse with their husband slumped sideways over the beast!

It was noisy too as neighbours catch up with the local gossip. Courtships were developing too between teenagers creating its own buzz and tension. Excited youngsters proudly wearing their finery raced around excitedly in twos, or groups of three or more to get the mountain equivalent of a McDonald’s treat – a raw cucumber, a stick of sugar cane or a home made ice-cream.

Although serious business is conducted here, there are also products available for tourists. Numerous tables display scarves, hats, bags, hand worked strips of cloth in varying widths (which they use as trim or decoration), wool, intricate linen table wear, silver jewelry and a variety of other souvenirs.

I added a few more scarves to my already huge collection and then I bargained for a bag to put it all in. It cost me $3 and is intricately patterned by machine. Mind you, the zip failed before I left the market but I don’t mind because I plan to turn into a cushion cover when I reach the tailoring capital of Vietnam, Hoi An later in my trip through Vietnam.

After time in this stunning market we were taken back to Lao Cai and dropped at a hotel/restaurant to dine to wait for the train back to Hanoi. But before that we have yet another altercation.

On a high narrow hill pass, we were forced to stop for some road works when a scooter driver tried to squeeze past but in doing so he scraped the side of our bus. Our driver was angry when the scooter driver refused to stop. In fact, as he made his escape, he drove right under the arm of a moving road working vehicle. Our driver got out and began to run after him shouting at the other stationary vehicles drivers to help him to stop the escapee. No luck, he’s off.

However, we were given rights to jump the waiting queue and our driver traveled far too fast down the steep road but the offender was on a nimble machine and he’s out of sight. Meanwhile cell phones became red hot as numerous calls were made, including some by our driver as he juggled the phone with negotiating the difficult terrain!

After about half an hour we saw several dozen Vietnamese gathered at a T junction and to my surprise they had apprehended the young offender. Our driver got out and arguments ensued, a few punches thrown – one from our driver - and there was much gesturing. We were told that the police had been called and there’ll be a wait which does not please us at all.

We waited and waited and waited. Finally, everyone was ordered back into the van and we drove off at speed unaware of any solution having been reached and we certainly hadn’t seen the police. We proceed several kilometers further, then slowed down at a small garage. The driver opened the window and threw out the offending drivers keys which he’d obviously confiscated. Retribution Vietnamese style! Honour had been restored.

When we waiting at the T junction I took the opportunity to stretch my legs and inspect the damage. A polish would have fixed it!

Thankfully there were no more dramas on the rest of the trip and we got back to Lao Cai with hours still to wait for the train.

I was amazed to find that I could get a shower in Lao Cai for $1. In the privacy of the room, I repacked my already overloaded back pack (I also bought several things in Sapa) and waited for the long, long trip back to Hanoi. This time I didn’t have such a convivial time with my bedfellows. I shared the cabin with an overly chatty Dutchman (who had also visited NZ and reminisces but this time I am too darned tired to feel homesick) and a Vietnamese couple with whom we have just nodding acquaintance.

However, it’s been an extremely long day and I am ready for sleep which comes fitfully.

I notice that I had written in my diary that “I am blissfully happy after my day visiting yet another ethnic minority. This has been another highlight of my trip.” They are beginning to mount up now and I would be hard pressed to limit it to ten. However this day at the Bac Ha markets would be very near the top if not come in at first place.

I’ve decided to spend two more nights in Hanoi at the same hotel and then go up to Halong Bay which is on the coast in the north east. This time it will be an organized trip and I’ll let you know how it goes next time so keep on checking……

Trekking in the Mists of Sapa

Trekking in the Mists
Trips from Sapa in North West Vietnam

After three months “on the road” and having sourced information and made a myriad of decisions myself, without reference or input from other people, it was very refreshing to sit down with Pete of the Sapa Rooms Boutique Hotel and have him make suggestions for how I could spend the time in the area.

It’s generally recommended that you take a tour up to Sapa and the majority of visitors I chatted to had done just that, but in my usual independent fashion I didn’t want to do that. I found that it wasn’t difficult to travel independently but I suspect that having Pete provide suggestions and organize a guide made it easier.

On my first full day the weather didn’t look at all promising due to persistent rain but the second day even though the mist was annoying and obscured the mountains, the rain held off. I left Sapa on the back of Huong’s motor cycle wearing several layers of clothing including a waterproof coat and pants which was essential because even in the mist I got wet. However, my young guide didn’t even have a jacket and I felt rather sorry for him as we raced through the countryside.

As we descended into the valley we left the mist above us but it hung around the tops of the mountains. On arrival in the village we were greeted by several H’mong women who stopped to chat and then put the heavy word on me to buy – and buy from each of the seven! They decided to follow me and so we looked like a bright celebratory procession as we traipsed, often single file, through their village and up the rise to the place where traditional medicines, made from local plants, are boiled in massive vats until they reduce to form a concentrate.

When we were nearly there, I could hear the cries of a young baby. It was a four week old swaddled and intricately strapped to his mothers back. When we stopped she unwrapped him and put him to the breast to suckle. The boys here are differentiated from the girls by the number of colours in their hats. The hats the children wear are very pretty and have good luck metal (like coins) sewn into the cloth. They believe that it is bad luck for anyone to touch the head of a child and as a westerner I found it rather difficult to refrain from patting them.

Here girls can marry at 18 and boys at 20. I was informed that the girls cannot marry until they have learnt to sew well. “Why?” I asked in typical western naivety.
“We must be able to sew to make clothes for ourselves and our family” was the prompt reply. With that short statement, I am quickly taken back in time; way back.

The men work hard and are rather stoic as they wander the roads, their long black pants rolled up to create shorts. Their bodies are “nuggety” - short, compact with strong muscles and not an ounce of surplus fat.

But the women work even harder. Not only do they work in the fields when required, they cook, take care of the children, make the families clothes and embroider, sew and sell goods to tourists. To sell their goods might necessitate a walk of many miles into Sapa.

Part of their costume is a striking richly embroidered piece of cloth hanging from the waist down the back of their skirts to mid thigh and I was told that this takes a year to embroider with silk. They are very beautiful.

In this village, after the women marry their eyebrows and some hair back from the forehead is shaved and they don a bright red head dress making it very easy to tell the two groups apart.

At the end of our couple of hours together they all demanded I buy from them. I said I would have a look at everyone’s goods and then make a decision but I was NOT buying from each of them. I got the young village girl whose English was excellent to let them know my intentions. Well…..in hindsight looking at each persons goods was a mistake because it turned into a high pitched frenzy of “you must buy from me…I have a baby….you took my photo….I was your guide…..I followed you” etc etc. I was disturbed. They would be great in a rugby scrum and would come up with the ball every time.

In the end I bought something from each of them, but only after a couple of them followed me into the area where my lunch was being prepared and got cross with me. I was quite upset over the whole episode. Had I been in a group I think it may have helped because there would have been more people to share the purchasing load, provide a distraction or lend moral support.

The prices are so cheap it seems rather criminal to bargain, but again, it’s expected and respected and I didn’t spend very much money to get a big pile of goods to take home for myself and as presents. Like I needed more stuff! Actually I’ll have to send another parcel home because the “extras” are mounting up.

After lunch, my local guides have my money so they disappeared to focus on other tasks, or tourists, and Huong and I were able to wander through the countryside which I loved. It was very peaceful, and interesting to see how they cultivate the land and live in this rural countryside dominated by the task and business of growing rice. I saw few other tourists once in and around the villages.

The next day I decide to go by myself and walk down the winding road to Cat Cat Village. I suppose it took about an hour and was downhill all the way and very very pretty. I took the photo of the hut on the way down. At one stage the road veers left and after paying a 75cent entrance fee, I descend hundreds of steps through the village, terraced rice fields and water buffalo working. At the bottom there is a waterfall along with the inevitable stall sellers. Here I buy two hand embroidered cushion covers for about $8. Believe it or not, I know I’ve paid over the top but having embroidered myself, I know the time involved in working this pattern would take a great many hours and I wasn’t about to bargain too hard.

Thankfully there is a group of the ever present scooter drivers waiting at the bottom of the hill to transport lazy or tired trekkers back to the top and as I was in the first category, for $1 I engage one. My legs are very sore the next day from all the steps but I am happy to have had the opportunity to visit these villages and spend a little time amongst these proud hard working people.

The air is so very clean and clear up there and having come from some seriously polluted cities I feel great to have been breathing fresh air.

Listening to comments around Sapa, other tourists had similar hassles in the villages and were also disturbed. It is incredibly intense and I think it’s rather a pity because it mars an otherwise special experience. I’ve put a photograph of a “scrum” of villagers I saw in Sapa. A large group focused on a two of French women who were buying. It’s taken from the balcony outside my room at the hotel and looks back towards the local market.

On a trip to another village the next day, one older Black H'mong woman (called that because of their dress) walked beside me for over half an hour. I thought she was returning to her village. I should have wised up because whenever I stopped to take a photo, she stopped too. Once I had purchased something from her and I think I spent about 50c, she just turned around and went back up the hill into Sapa. I experienced that twice during different walks.

At night time I download my photos over a wine and one of the guides is interested in photography and so I encourage him to have a play with my camera.

On my last night a Singaporean mother and adult daughter pair are about to tuck into a Vietnamese Hot Pot and when they see the mountain of food in front of them ask if I have dined. I hadn’t and so they asked me to join them. I had a very pleasant evening sharing it with them. It’s a dish where diners cook a variety of meat and vegetables in a liquid and then drink the broth. It was very tasty and the company excellent. I felt blessed.

On my final day in Sapa, the train isn’t due to leave until 2115 and so I decide to do a day trip to another market which turns out to be one of the many highlights of my entire trip. I will write about that next time…….


I’m loving……wandering in the fresh air in the countryside. Oh and having long chats with another from downunder.

I’m missing……not much.

Taste sensation…….the hot pot. I’m sure the food at the hotel is tastier because Pete tried to source organic ingredients.

Bargain of the moment…….all the local handicrafts.

I’m surprised……at how much time I spend working out what I’m going to do in a place, where I will stay, how I will get to a place etc.

Photos: Dress shop Cat Cat style (notice the colours of everyday wear),

Home in the mist just out of Sapa on the way to Cat Cat Village, the hill tribe lady who followed me, houses on the way to Ta Phin village and the view approaching Cat Cat.

From the Mists of Sapa

From the Mists of Sapa
North West of Vietnam

As I sit down to write this I am back in Hanoi playing written catch up because I have just had two of the most fascinating but diverse trips – one to Sapa with a side trip to Bac Ha and the second to Halong Bay.

They were both inspiring, but first a little about Sapa. The town is northwest of Hanoi and very close to the border of China. In fact where the train stops, Lao Cai, is about a 20 minute taxi ride to the border crossing and trains leave from here to go to Kunming in China. Sapa is still some 40 minutes away along a narrow winding road and we wend ever higher to reach approximately 1650 meters above sea level and the ever present mist.

By the time I arrived at my destination, The Sapa Rooms Boutique Hotel, (http://www.saparooms.com/) I was very tired. The overnight train trip is about 10 hours and I didn’t sleep well despite feeling very comfortable with the other people in the four berth cabin. I shared with a lovely young British man and a Canadian mother and 23 year old daughter who was well traveled. She had spent a year in NZ doing odd jobs and over a year in China teaching English. There is no such thing as segregating the sexes here! But they were all excellent company and we chatted for some time before lights out.
However, once I arrived at my hotel and was enthusiastically welcomed by Australian Pete and huge breakfast (included in the room rate) any thoughts of tiredness and homesickness banished to the dark recesses of my mind. I was keen to get out there and explore a little, but Sapa was cold…..mainly because of the altitude and heavy mist which obscured the great view from my room. I never did see the view, but I believe it was there.

Pete is almost evangelical about Sapa and after completing a couple of treks myself I could see why. He visited Sapa last year (I think but apologies and a correction is welcome Pete, if I have that wrong) and fell in love with the place. He was sick of the Sydney rat race, managing 120 staff in a computer company and even the great Sydney harbor view from his office couldn’t keep him in Australia. So he bought this run down hotel and is well on the way to transforming it. It’s an excellent place to stay.

The coldest months here are January and February but from March to May my guide book says the weather is often excellent. The prime time for visiting the region though is September to mid December plus the Festival of the Clouds which occurs during May – I just missed it thankfully because the hotels in the town were full.

Because of the cold, for the first time since Thailand, I was able to wear my jeans. Oh yeah! Although this will sound rather sick, I was so happy to be back in jeans. But even with several layers of clothing including a merino top and my great lightweight, all purpose Marmot windbreaker, I was still cold.

However, the friendliness of the local H’mong people who wander the streets in their multi colored and layered finery with huge smiles (see photo) helped to banish some of the cold I was feeling. Of course they were always trying to sell me something….anything…..they just wanted me to buy from them. Sometimes I would duck into a shop to try to evade them but no chance….they’d just wait outside the shop their lovely open faces peering in waiting. The shop owners who pay for their display space and other business overheads seem remarkably tolerant of these hill-tribe people wandering the streets garnering sales where they can.

Their English is quite good and they continually ask questions “where are you from….what is your name…..what is your age…..are you married….do you have children…….”? When they hear that I have two sons the younger girls get very excited and want to know their age. When I tell them, they ask if they can come to my home with me so that they can marry my lads!

During my first afternoon in Sapa I opt for a nap and instead sleep very deeply for several hours. After I woke, I wandered downstairs to the news that they had just made a roasted pumpkin and chicken soup which I order along with a fresh crunchy baguette and it was absolutely divine.

I love the art work around the hotel. Pete has engaged an artist to help him to make the space creative. He is making light shades from the local fabric, different tables, couches and a lot of pottery etc which is displayed in all nooks and crannies. I fell in love with a pottery head. The one I’ve shown in the photo was in my bedroom and the gorgeous flowers are grown locally. Later, when I returned to Hanoi I visited Tiep’s (the artists) studio to try to buy one to ship back to New Zealand but the few he had left weren’t suitable for me. I felt very disappointed.

While I am up at the hotel, they install a new reception top. It’s fascinating to see the local men working away with primitive gear as they install the hand made top. It is cut from a special tree from a village nearby.

For my second day I decided to take a guide and go to a village about 17kms from Sapa. This village has a reputation for wonderful hand embroidery and I really look forward to it. The day was extraordinary, on several levels, but more about that later.

I’m missing…..home. I got very homesick during the train trip because the 23 year old wanted to talk about the marvelous time she had in NZ and as she reminisced and enthused to the other two about our wonderful country her memory needed a little help about places and things and I too was taken on a mental trip back home.

Best coffee……none. Again!

Favourite food…..Pete’s pumpkin soup using his grandmother’s recipe. Yum. Yum.

Bargain of the moment…….just about anything in Sapa. I bought a small hand woven bag for about $3, a blouse for $5 etc

I’m loving….......the fresh air and quiet especially after the pollution and excessive noise in Hanoi.

What I’m reading….....another Nora Roberts – Blue Smoke. It’s escapism!

Travelers love……helpful and friendly hotel staff. It makes SUCH a difference to the enjoyment of a place and to getting the most out of your time there.

New Year the Luang Prabang Way

It is very difficult to reconcile the way the normally polite, shy, relaxed Lao people transform into raving extroverted maniacs. But this dramatic change occurs during their New Year, in Luang Prabang at least.

Perhaps its because they're so reserved for 358 days of the year that they grasp hold of these few days to really let loose. They have fun and many visitors throw themselves into the festivities too.

This New Year period occurs in the middle of April and celebrates the sun moving from the zodiac sign of Pisces into Aries. Basically its about the old spirit departing and a new one arriving. For about seven days, they throw of water at people, obsensibly to cleanse the soul.

Kids, big and small trawl the streets or take up strategic corners and throw basins or buckets of water over people. Many people carry huge water guns, sometimes with reserve water tanks strapped onto their backs. Then they like to smear a white , black or red substance over people - or throw it at them (I never did find out what this was about). Walking the street, driving a car or riding a motor bike - all are fair targets! Once my scooter driver had to stop because white powder was thrown which covered the visor obscuring vision. It's madness.

Consequently people wander the streets soaking wet, smeared in a variety of colours and looking a complete wreck. Towards the end of each day, the young adults ride around town standing on the back of the trucks, music blaring dancing and cheering, sometimes sitting on bonnets and generally having a great time.

I hated it. To avoid the worst of it, I walked very early in the morning because the water bombing didn't begin until around 1000 or 1100. Anyway, this time was by far the coolest for wandering and very quiet. As the day advanced there was a greater chance of being drenched until it all stopped about 1800, only to begin the next day. Tiresome! And, this water bombing goes on for seven days the locals tell me.

But, outside of this New Year peiod, Luang Prabang (an old Lao royal capital) would be a fantastic place to spend time.

The township has no high rise which is a very refreshing change. It is an easy and pleasant place to just wander around. The town is surrounded by water and is like a peninsular with the Nam Khan River on one side of the "V" shape and the Mekong on the other. There is no shortage of special little bars, cafes and restaurants with water views. In the main street (no water views from here), many eating places are raised up three or four steps which is a nice elevation from which to watch the activities below.

The markets here are great too, especially the night market which is open from around 6pm until 11pm. The main street is closed to traffic and local women "set up shop" on the pavement and road laying out their home made (often) wares. The mountain women in particular are dressed beautifully. Their black hair swept up high on their head. They dress in a colourful wrap skirt and the most gorgeous linen (I think) crop top which is often in red or pink. The top has long sleeves and is trimmed in multi hued braid. They are a majestic sight. If only the tops they had for sale were also in these bright hues, I'd probably be loading up my suitcase! On second thoughts - perhaps it's just as well they are selling mainly muted colours for adults.

The workmanship is exquisite and the prices obsenely low. One of my favourite activities is sitting in a bar watching them set up. In true "rush rush - get everything done in a hurry" type of western mind set, I couldn't understand why it was taking them such a long time to unpack their bags of goods and lay them out on the mats. Then, after observing this slow, precise behaviour for a couple of nights I think I know why they patiently display their goods. Carefully unpacking and placing each item means that the movement or colour just might catch the eye of a passer-by and by doing that a possible sale!

Luang Prabang is another of those very special places. I saw lots of people holding umbrellas as the locals use them to shade themselves as they stroll and also while they ride around on their motor scooters. There are many temples here and many monks in bright orange robes stroll around the streets.

Although I said in my last post that I would probably stay longer here than orignally planned, to be honest, because of the water bombing, I couldn't wait to leave so booked an early flight out to Hanoi in Vietnam. Others on my plane had done the same. Having said that - I would definitely come back here, I'd just make sure it wasn't New Year.

Photos: Four this time - Monks, lamp shades, umbrellas, and the New Year celebrations

I'm missing..........all kinds of food from home - a plain sandwich with 5 grains, good coffee, meatloaf, a good steak - get the picture!

I'm reading.......Cuba and the Night by Pico Iyer. Its a novel, but reads more like a travel narrative as I felt as though I was in Cuba. I found it hard to put down as I reached through the pages to find out whether Lourdes managed to find a way to leave Socialist Cuba. A beguiling yarn.

I'm loving........having internet access in my room! Love it. Love it.

I'm surprised........to find that rugby is played in some schools. They are in need of resources - of course - old gear, help with administration, coaching etc. http://www.laorugby.com/.

Taste sensation.........Banana crepes - cooked and eaten al fresco.

Travelers like..........security locks on doors (not always a given here).

Noisy Hanoi

Hello from another bustling, noisy, frenetic Asian city; Hanoi in northern Vietnam. I'm staying in the Old Quarter at the Gia Thinh Hotel http://www.sunshinehotel.com.vn/ and again I have managed to find a great "backpacker deal" but in a nice new boutique hotel where I have a rather lovely room with all the trimmings including in room internet using computers they supply.

It's a lot cooler here and I'm enjoying the respite from the heat.

I'm about two blocks back from the pretty Hoan Kiem Lake. The Old Quarter is a rabbit warren of tiny streets and alleys. In the 13th Century Hanoi had 13 guilds and each one established themselves in a different street. So there were whole streets making and selling things like headstones, another for silversmiths, scales, pipes, copper, herbal medicines etc.

Today some of that remains but tourist outlets seem to dominate with souvenir and art shops; food sellers, tour promoters etc. It's a visual feast and I love strolling and peeking into all the wee shops.

Today I happened across a street with shop after shop selling shoes, another carving and selling headstones. The other day I went along a whole street of vendors selling sweets, all laid out in baskets like the old supermarket "pick and mix" displays before we got all sanitised and put them behind plastic cages with handy pull down dispensers. But there's something I don't understand. All these sweet sellers appear to me to be displaying exactly the same goods, without product differentiation, how would a buyer decide who to buy from in a street of about two dozen sellers?

As I write this, I'm sitting in a small classy (read great service, huge shiny wine glasses) restaurant called Five watching the world go by as I sup a red wine and wait for the chef to cook my wild mushroom risotto.

This is theatre at its best; street theatre. I'm fascinated by the passing parade of cyclos (push bikes with a seat for passengers in front and covered by a wide umbrella). I'm especially interested in the body language of the cyclo passengers. Some people sit back and relax, others browse maps, perhaps following their journey. Some sit with their legs out straight and taut as if to brace themselves against an impending disaster. Others have knees together, ankles wide - kind of unsure whether to relax or not? I wonder what I do?

Of course, I've been ripped off by the cyclo drivers. It's a given really. It was my first ride and I was new in Hanoi. The streets in this area are extremely confusing. As usual, I was trying to go to a particular cafe in the hope of getting a good coffee (I didn't find one and haven't yet!). A cyclo driver saw me stop to review my map and after some discussion we agreed on a price for him to take me. I have no idea what I was thinking to agree to such a big fee, especially when I was sure my intended destination was close, but I did. We seemed to be travelling a long way and I began to feel much relief that I'd agreed to use his services. We twisted and turned and then pulled up outside my cafe. After my coffee, I wandered and after a couple of streets (no more), surprise, surprise I recognised the street - it was my hotel street and only about 4 minutes separated the two! I smiled. At least the guy had the decency to do a little work and show me a little of the old town of Hanoi for his fee.

You can't win with taxi drivers either. My guide book says to use the meter. The other day I was meeting a new friend and my hotel gave me an indication of price which I paid but as the distance seemed so short I felt the agreed price was too high. So the next time I went the same route I declined the set fee and instead went via meter. The drive seemed to take much longer and the price was double. So now I've decided to just bargain the first fee they mention and at least I know the price and I will get there more quickly otherwise they will find a way to get their money anyway! Oh dear....do I sound cynical?

I went to see the Water Puppets the other day which is about a 45 minute show and most interesting. This type of theatre originated in the 13th Century.

By the way I highly recommend Five - the food, service and location was great.

On Tuesday I'm off to Sapa which is a ten hour overnight train ride up into the mountains and close to the Chinese border.

Internet services and the brain willing, I'll send an update from there.

In the meantime, thanks for all the feedback, I really appreciate it. It's great to know who's reading Travelespresso and what you think about it.

I'm loving.......the thrill of anticipating going to a new place. I get all excited as I'm about to head off to somewhere new.

I'm surprised.......at how noisy Hanoi is. I hate to think how high the decibels are.

My favourite coffee.......are you kidding? I have tried several and its awful. That surpises me because they grow a lot of coffee here but I guess they haven't yet learned how to make the kind of coffee I enjoy. They have their own style and I don't like it at all.

Traveler's love........TripAdviser. It's a website where travelers like me write comments on the hotels they've stayed at. I love it because travelers are so objective and I have found the comments most useful. They help me to short list a hotel and to cross off others I had on my "hit list". If you are not familiar with it check it out http://www.tripadviser.com/. I used it to choose my Sapa hotel which is Sapa Rooms Boutique Hotel. To help other travelers, last week I added some of my own comments about various places I've stayed.

Nine Lives - The Road trip between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang

If I were a cat I would most likely have used up at least eight of my nine lives on the road trip from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang. The road is extremely windy, narrow and the driver of my mini bus a maniac of the first order!

But before surviving that trip I had three nights in Vang Vieng at the Ban Sabai Cottages http://www.xayohgroup.com/ in a magical spot on the bank of the Nam Song River. High cliffs form a dramatic backdrop. The tall mountains are angular, have mysterious looking valleys and are tucked one behind another in layers. When I was there the heat created a haze adding to the mystery but I am told that during the rainy season they are clear.

The river level is low and from the deck of the hotel, I spent several hours watching the water flow languidly past as I nursed a wine or BeerLao. It all makes for an extremely restful place to spend some time.

The town itself I hated. This really is back-packer town and anyone over 30 (oh gosh is that me!) is seriously outnumbered. The bars and cafes all look the same. I’m not joking when I say that within a 30 metre stretch of the road I walked past three cafes with people laying (wasted….“happy” pizzas perhaps?) on axe shaped cushions watching re-runs of the TV show Friends! I couldn’t wait to leave it. But before I did I had two memorable days away from the crassness in the township.

Tubing down the river on an inflated tractor tyre is a rite of passage for back packers and I joined the ranks. It was great fun. The trip is only 3.5 kms but it took us hours, mostly because one of the people I’d joined decided that this was his day to get drunk and so we stopped many times along the way! I hate to think about how much alcohol he consumed but he began the day with three or four mojitos. Each one is served in a small plastic bag with a straw so its nice and easy to take on the tube! At the last stop he got a small bucket of lao lao which is a strong local spirit, but before that beer and other spirits!

So can you imagine the state he was in? Thankfully we had a guide (Xeng – pronounced Sang) and he took care of the five year old and the drunks antics.

Meanwhile, I drifted slowly down the river away from him, enjoyed being cool and drank in the scenic mountains towering above us. It is a spectacular sight and sometimes, depending upon which view was the best, I tubed backwards so I could enjoy more of the mountains rising above me. We reached our destination some six hours after leaving the hotel. The trip was most enjoyable, but not the company.

One of the reasons the backpackers love this river is the music blaring out, the bars and the rope swings across the river and many choose to stop, imbibe and leap into the river. The people I went down the river with had visited Vang Vieng five months earlier but they were surprised at how many more bars (with accompanying loud music) and swings there were. It seems that someone gets a good idea (whether that be tee shirts, bars, swings, cushion covers or whatever) and then everyone else copies.

I booked the guide, Xeng, for the following day to take me out into the countryside. I left the hotel on the back of his scooter and we went through villages, rice fields, caves, rode across narrow bamboo bridges (yikes!), saw a Buddha in a cave and some bats too among other things.

We stopped for lunch at Pha Tang Resort which is right on the edge of the river and about 17 kms out of town. It’s quiet and beautiful, again with mountains rising right up in front of us. It’s hard to imagine a more perfect place to rest awhile.

I loved the day and enjoyed racing around the countryside. It was an extremely interesting day and having the company of Xeng awesome because he took me to places that would otherwise have been difficult for me to get to. I plied him with questions about the people and customs. It also meant I could stop and take photos when I wanted to. The photo of the four girls (probably about four or five years old) was taken in a village. They just played very happily together by the river without an adult in sight.

Xeng is a very special young man and I would use him (photo attached) again in a heartbeat, except I doubt I will visit Vang Vieng again. He can be contacted through the company he works for - www.laokim.com.

I’d heard all sorts of horror stories of the trip between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang and now that I’ve done it, I agree with them. Everyone! The scenery on the trip is beautiful but in terms of motoring, it is one six hour journey I do not want to repeat.

The road winds up and up and around and around. Just when I thought that we couldn’t climb any higher we continued our journey up and up and up.

There are many very tight bends and not many straight stretches of road so when we got behind a slow vehicle, the driver would just overtake. The blind corners didn’t hinder his overtaking too often. It was hair raising.

I didn’t know whether to sleep so I wouldn’t know what was going on or stay awake to drink in all of the wonderful scenery. Of course I chose the latter option. But that meant I saw a couple of narrow escapes. Once I screamed as a truck came around the corner on the wrong side of the road and of course we were also on the wrong side; both drivers swerved and I swear the huge cab missed me by about 20 cm if that! It took several deep breaths to slow my heart beat. There were other close calls but not quite as close. If you were forced over the edge there would be no surviving it as barriers are few and very far between.

We had to stop or slow almost to a stand still many times for a variety of things:

Big articulated trucks on the side of the road, broken down or having a rest stop – very common and no warning – you would just come around the corner and there they were!

Wandering across the road:
A big fat goose
Mrs Pig and her piglets, curly tails held high and proud
A dog – it could hardly walk it was so fat along with numerous other dogs
Chickens and fluffy babies following behind, single file.
Cows
Goats
Children in dirty clothes or naked
Rocks piled on the side of the road – sometimes blocking one of the two narrow lanes.

The villages we passed through are very pretty. Most of the houses are flimsy and simply constructed with sheets of woven bamboo and roofs of palm leaves. Sometimes they are made of concrete and occasionally wood. The yards are dirt but are swept clean. There is no litter around (unlike southern Cambodia where, for much a trip through the countryside, you could be forgiven for thinking it was one big rubbish tip).

Sometimes on this trip north we passed through big villages. Many times though, high up in the hills, where extra dirt had been pushed when excavating the road, houses have been built on this reclaimed land – sometimes just a few of them, sometimes a dozen or so. Some of these dwellings are precariously cantilevered over the edge of the mountain with a huge drop down into the valley below. The children play in the only flat land available to them; right beside the road. People bathe within a metre of the roadside too.

The road through the villages was often straight so our driver sped on past, honking his horn to scatter a variety of animals and people out of our way.

Aside from traveling on the wrong side of the road and passing on blind corners, the other scary part of the trip for me was seeing, high up in the mountains, young men in the uniform of the youth, holding sub machine guns. Sometimes these weapons were held casually by their side, sometimes slung over their shoulder. At times these youths were alone, sometimes in pairs but once I saw a group of about a dozen. They were lounging, their guns menacingly arranged at the edge of the road, tee pee style, butts pointing skywards.

A lot of the land is being denuded, (even very steep mountains) and we passed many fires burning making the air thick with smoke. The smoke reaches Luang Prabang later in the day creating a haze over the town.

Now that I’ve arrived here, I am carrying on the tradition of telling horror stories about my trip between these two Laos towns along route 13. Having said that, it’s not a trip to be missed and I am still encouraging travelers heading south to consider taking it at least once because of the outstandingly beautiful scenery.

Luang Prabang is a delight and again I will probably stay longer here than originally planned. It is Lao New Year here so everyone is excited, accommodation in the town is full, and there is much celebration and festivals. I will tell you more in my next article.


I’m missing……..not understanding the customs. Much of what’s happening here is beyond my comprehension and I find that confusing.

Best coffee…..At Saffron by the Mekong in Luang Prabang. Its grown here too and is organic. The Arabica beans are grown especially for the café as a replacement crop for subsistence farmers who turned to growing opium poppies before it was outlawed and now coffee.

I’m loving…….wandering around the township taking photos here and there. It is very photogenic.

Bargain of the moment……..the lunch I bought for Xeng and me. It was more food than we could eat and two nice cold beers all for about $4.

Travelers love……tables in toilets or at least good hooks to hang the junk we carry around while going about what you need to do in these small spaces. Sometimes I've resorted to hanging my "hold-all bag" around my neck!

Taste sensation…….Iced teas – I’ve especially enjoyed watermelon of apple teas.

I’m reading……..Nights of Rain and Stars by Maeve Binchy. Unlikely plot and so, so perfect – all wrapped up in a fluffy pink paper with big exquisite bows and ribbons of cascading stars! Puerile. Not even good escapism.