Friday, February 22, 2008

Around the Island to Bo Phut


Around the Island to Bo Phut

Hello from Bo Phut where I’m sitting at one of my favourite spots for observing what’s happening in a place; a café right on the edge of fisherman’s pier. I caught the sawngthaew up here which is the local form of bus – (like a converted ute - see the photo) and it's about a 20 minutes ride from Choeng Mon.

It’s from this pier that the boats take people out to many different islands, (Koh Tao, Koh Phangan, Koh Som etc) in the Gulf of Thailand. I planned to visit some of these islands but as they turn into raging party palaces at full moon, which is about now, I’ve decided to extend my stay at the lovely peaceful (relatively) piece of paradise at Choeng Mon.

I’ve stopped for breakfast at Coffee Junction. They boast superb coffee and so it should be at the price. The price is a 35% premium to any other coffee I’ve had in Thailand! A note to self: do check the size of the cup before ordering. Here you can have a choice of coffee beans – the more common robusta (twice the caffeine of Arabica) or Arabica (about 75% - 80% of the world's production) varieties and I’ve ordered the latter which, it's generally accepted has more flavour. Anyway, the thimble sized cup of coffee arrives and it is excellent.

My contentment is shattered by the piercing bang of fireworks as they cut through the general street noise at regular intervals and sometimes makes me jump as it’s so unexpected. People light them in the narrow street just in front of the small wooden houses and shops. The smoldering remains of the double happies are doused with water, the red outside paper left swirling around the street.

Diagonally opposite me three old men relax in bamboo chairs outside another café. These guys are having a great time commenting on everyone and everything that passes by this busy corner. Sometimes the conversation gets quite animated: about what – I don’t know because of course it’s conducted in Thai.

This area is very quaint and has a number of nice looking places to stay, some with water views but I am happy I decided to stay put. There is an excellent array of dining options here too.

The beach sand here is coarser than Choeng Mon and Chaweng. Like all these beaches there is no tolerance for the effects of global warming if indeed that does raise sea levels. Here at Bo Phut at high tide, there’s only about 2 meters of beach area. But unlike Choeng Mon and Chaweng, there is a small rise before the road, restaurants and hotels have been built which will give this area a reprieve.

I’m missing….wholegrain toast

I’m surprised……at how kind, polite and gentle everyone is towards me.

Taste Sensation….the HUGE locally grown cashew nuts which are about double the size of any I’ve seen in NZ so they clearly don't export the best of the crop! A divine snack.

I’m Loving……everyday vendors pull up right beside my deck on their motor cycles with food carts attached. They announce their arrival with a few short blasts on their horn. They sell all sorts of things – rice dishes, noodles, soups and fruit. Everyday I buy fruit – from the fruit man – a selection from ¼ papaya, ¼ pineapple, big slice of watermelon and about 10 bananas.

Bargain of the moment…..the fruit – for 2 bags of the above about 80c.

I’m reading….Actually I’ve just finished the superb “Mao’s Last Dancer” by Li Cunxin. I heard him speak a few years ago and he was one of the very best speakers I’ve listened to. This autobiography is the story and transformation of an 11 year old child from a very, very poor peasant background. He was plucked out of millions of hopeful youngsters and taken from his loving family to train at the Beijing Dance Academy established by Madame Mao. Opportunity, training, a tough mental focus and hard work triumph and he realises the dream of a lifetime for ballet dancers. A truly remarkable story.

No comments: