Idyllic Bamboo Island

I am at writing this from Sihanoukville which is a popular beach area a 4/5 hour bus ride from Phnom Pehn and close to the southern Vietnamese border.

Clearly it is too long since I’ve been out on a boat. I was off for a day trip to Bamboo Island (one of the many islands just off the coast here at Sihanoukville) and to board the boat I had to wade into waist deep water.

Already the boat is full when it’s my turn. I climb up the rusty metal ladder (boating friends I cannot even remember what this is called!) which is positioned very close to the bow. Once I am on the top rung a lovely man holds out his hand for me to grab so that he can help to pull me over the top. There’s nothing else to hold onto on the flat deck. The boat pitches awkwardly and rolls, my hand slips, I am thrown, from the top rung, rather ignominiously, into the water, back first! My back-pack and I are fully immersed. It must have been a very funny sight to all those on board already.

I am very concerned and as I hit the water and I’m sure several choice swear words escape my delicate lips. My back-pack holds many of my valuables – passport, money and camera!

My next boarding attempt goes smoothly and I quickly delve into my pack to check the damage. I am surprised to see that my camera is totally dry. Phew….the relief. Thank goodness for Kathmandu’s great gear, and my good sense, for buying the water proof pack. A chap sitting next to me on the narrow wooden planks, our seat for the day, checks out the zips and expresses surprise that they are water proof too.

It is only later that I realize the bottom of the pack is not waterproof and some of the things I packed first got wet, but nothing much that mattered and my camera and passport are dry!

We get underway and stop at an island for some of the passengers to snorkel and then we chug noisily to Bamboo Island. What an idyllic paradise this wee island is. There are a couple of places to stay and it looks divine. The beach is nice and long with squeaky white sand; the water very warm and inviting.

Lynda (a lady I had chanced upon the day before) invited me to join her on this trip and we spend a wonderful day together. Just as well we have each other for company as there are very few other English speaking people aboard. We meander through a bush track to reach the other side of the island and an even nicer beach and go for a lovely pre-lunch swim.

This is truly a wonderful place to go for the day or even better several nights.


Taste sensation…….lunch on Bamboo Island which is included in the $10 ticket price. (Breakfast was too!) I relish my lunch - a long crusty roll, marinated then barbequed barracuda and salad cut up like coleslaw. Superb. We sit on woven mats on the beach under the filtered shade of casurina trees. Life is great.

I’m enjoying………chatting to Lynda – another traveler from Canada. Meeting up with her is like talking to an old friend and aside from the day trip together, we have dined out too. Tomorrow we go our separate ways, she back to Thailand and me to Laos via Phnom Pehn.

I’m reading………..Lonely Planet Laos so I have some idea of where and what I want to do while I’m there. I’ve added Laos to my original plans so I’m playing catch up. I need the title/author of a great yarn I can read….any ideas anyone? Do let me know.

I’m missing…………not much at all………….

Bargain of the moment……Dinner last night. I had a glass of red wine (only my second glass the entire trip!), barbequed vegetables and fish (OK it WAS barracuda again). I ate this sitting on the second story of a restaurant having climbed up the rickety wooden stairs. The sea is at the bottom of the road, I have stimulating company and I watch an orange coloured full moon rise high in the sky. Price $4.75 but really the overall experience is priceless.

Best coffee…..yes….yes…..YES….I’ve found some here! Starfish Café who serve Bon coffee which is from Thailand. It is excellent coffee.

I’m surprised…….that I’ve been on the road now for about seven weeks without a backward glance or a single doubt about what I left behind (aside of course from the givens - family, friends and my pillow – oh and the certain knowledge of where I can get a great coffee).

How to Give?

How Should I Give?

Poverty here in Cambodia is noticeable in many ways. Children, adults and many with physical disfigurement do it. They all want money, or food.

Ladies about my age approach and their signal is to hold out an empty bowl and/or motion with fingertips at their mouths imploring me with big sad eyes to give. Mothers with tiny wee babies sit on the footpath waiting, hoping.

People in wheelchairs – missing arms or legs or both (the war has left a shocking mark on many people) wave a cap at me as I stroll past.

Kids, some as young as five or six wander the streets in dirty clothes. Often a young child will be in charge of an even younger one (the latter usually naked) held on by a cotton wrap and they want money for food too. Sometimes the child is thrust at me.

Yesterday from the lovely breezy comfort of the Foreign Correspondents Club (made famous during the war), I sat up high and nursed a lovely cold beer and indulged myself in some overpriced spring rolls. From this great vantage point I had a wonderful view over the Tonle Sap River. Across the road there’s a nice stretch of green grass adjacent to the river. From here I watched a young girl (maybe 10 or 11) bath herself and her 18 month old charge in the river, then stretch out on the grass. As each tourist stopped to see the view, she got up, positioned her sleeping charge on her hip and approached them for money for food. Eventually one gave. She left immediately – to buy food – to give it to the beggar-master (it’s said they exist) I couldn’t be sure as she went out of view.

It’s terribly sad. There’s no social welfare here. The NGO’s (Non Government Organisations) are doing a great job but the problem is immense. My dilemma is, should I give and encourage a dependency on begging? Yet I have a conscience, my western wealth is immense (comparatively) and there is an immediate need.

Personally I’ve decided on two approaches. I patronize stores (and put money in the donation boxes there) where and when I can because I know they are training people for fair trade employment. They help to give individuals skills and perhaps assistance to help them start up a business. Then, I give away a certain amount of money each day.

Of course, whatever I do, it’s never enough, but I’ve decided this is what I can do for now.

I’d be really interested to hear some feedback on the approach others have (or would) take when traveling in a developing country.

Children of the Temples

The Children of the Temple Ruins

The second my tuk tuk stops at any one of the larger temples I am surrounded by many children beseeching me to buy from them; bracelets, small bronze statues, postcards, scarves, shirts, books, DVD’s, hats, water, anything…...to buy something. They each want “madam” to buy from them.

Although young, they are highly skilled, tenacious and have many selling techniques. “Where are you from?” is a common question.
I reply, “New Zealand”.
After the briefest of pauses the reply comes, “the capital of New Zealand is Wellington”.
“Yes, that’s correct and you are very clever”.
“OK…I know the capital of your country……you buy from me now.” That may or may not be followed with “then I can go to school”.
Another technique is to say “what’s your name?” and then they follow me along saying “Joy, you buy from me…..Joy you buy from me”.

Some visitors are clearly irritated by the vendors and the beggars and I can see why because it is very wearying. Personally I think that these are just kids out trying to do the best for themselves and their families. I find it difficult to ignore them. I want to engage with them and sometimes I do.

Sometimes I buy. I’ve purchased many packs of postcards and some scarves. Far too many to send or bring home, but hopefully the donation helps some family because $1 is a lot of money here and that amount of money will probably allow a family of three to eat for a day.

One young boy waiting, hiding in the middle of a temple whispered to me to follow him and after several persuasive attempts I went with him. He tempted me with the offer of a good spot for a photograph. He was perhaps eight and said he had no mother or father. Although I had some difficulty understanding him, he launched into a history lesson on all the temples around him, pointing enthusiastically this way and that. His knowledge was clearly outstanding. When it came time for me to pay for the knowledge he wanted $10. He said “it’s for my school and they can only take $10”. He had several strong arguments, all aimed at tugging at my heart strings.

Many children out here beg. Temple guards sometimes chase them away. A couple of times I saw a mother get all of her children into a temple early in the morning. Sheer joy and satisfaction lit up her proud beautiful face.

I took the photograph of the little boy with the dog at Banteay Srei Temple. He was just sitting there looking very plaintive; his tiny dog snuggled into a crack in the stones. I stood and watched for some time and many people gave him things – some gave sweets, some wee books or pencils and some money. With every donation, he put his hands up to his face (prayer style) as a thank you. The second the visitor moved on, he quickly hid the money, out of sight, between the folds of his dirty cream trousers then waited, patiently, silently, for the next person to come along.

One young girl who was probably about 10 or 11 (the hat maker) wanted to sell me postcards. I could tell that her heart wasn’t in it as all the other children are unbelievably persistent. But she was lethargic. I went around the corner and sat amongst the ruins so I could have some quiet time and write in my diary.

She got up and hid her stash of postcards and disappeared for a time. When she returned I could see that she had collected a pile of large green leaves and some thin dry twigs. She took up a position just along from me and humming happily she used these rudimentary tools to construct a hat for her bald head. We laughed and laughed as she tried it on only to find it was too small. The moments we shared were precious. I asked permission to take her photo and she obliged so as I left I gave her one dollar but she wouldn’t accept charity, insisting instead that I take a pack of post cards.

Later I asked Cambodians why she was bald and was told of two possibilities. The first was that her head had been shaved so her hair could be sold to raise money. The other possibility was that one of her parents had died and so it was done as a mark of respect.

Of course these are times when the children should be in school. I asked many different people including the children themselves about school and received many and conflicting answers. I got the feeling that they were irritated at being asked such a question.

Responses ranged from, “no school today”, “I go this afternoon”, “the teacher is sick so no school” etc. I have been told that school is free but at other times told that there is a cost. Some say that when the family has enough money the child will go to school but if not they must sell goods to eat.

I am in conflict; do I give and allow them to eat or does my giving encourage begging but I have written about that in an different article.

It’s very likely that these children are the descendants of the kings or the people from this truly amazing period in their countries history. Yet they are forced to beg to live. These temple sites get over one million paying visitors to their ancient home. The order of things doesn’t seem right to me and I can’t help but think there must be a better way.

Terror on Tonle Sap Lake

When I planned a late afternoon visit to the most productive fresh water lake in the world; the home of many people who live on the water, the last thing I thought I needed to consider was my safety. Afterall, this is a very popular tourist attraction, and yet, this trip was extremely scary.

Access to the lake is via an extremely rutted dusty red road and for the first time in many days of travel on my tuk tuk I grab the holds with both hands to try to steady my body from being thrown out of the cab. Buses, going too fast for the conditions, pass us stirring up a thick cloud of dust. The air is disgusting with a nasty cloying fishy smell.

The poverty here is heart wrenching too as, lining the road on both sides, are one roomed shacks made of thatched leaves, some in a poor state of repair. I see the families belongings piled up on the raised floor.

We stop and a young man meets me – about 14 years old I guess. He directs me and I follow him down the hardened bank of mud, littered with rubbish, and climb over several long boats to get to the one I’m to go out on.

When I get to the boat I am worried. The boatman is already pulling and I move very quickly as the distance between the two boats widens. I am shocked to see the age of the “skipper” – he is a child and I am the only passenger. Too late to act, we are underway.

To get to the lake we navigate a muddy and confused water way. The skipper keeps stalling the motor. This is definitely not to be recommended in swift, swirling and confused water. I am even more worried with the company of three lads – the skipper aged 16 and his two companions 15.

They are hoons and keep larking about as though they are on a school trip. As I am the only person on the boat I feel rather insecure. My feelings of unease heighten when a machete drops down from somewhere. I take a little comfort in the fact that there are many other boats around us and I feel that if I need to, I’ll yell for attention.

But, when we reach the main body of the lake, they want to drop me off at a floating restaurant out there on the water (many people live on the water here) but I don't want to stop. The lads are not happy and confer in an agitated manner amongst themselves. From the truculent body language the skipper makes a decision - he takes the boat far away from everywhere and cuts the motor! I decide to play it cool and try to look like I’m not worried while we drift for a time.

Eventually the “skipper” starts the motor again (mind you he still keeps stalling it) and we do a little tour around the floating shacks on the water.

I am relieved that soon we turn to go back. Then they start hassling me for tips. They want money for school, they say. Although still concerned for myself .....I say "later".

He repeats and repeats his demands getting right up against my face so that I can feel his putrid breath on my cheek and I pull away a little. He says, rather crossly “do you understand what I’m asking? You pay me now!”

I nod. Then another of the threesome said “do you understand what he said?” nodding towards his mate.

I reply with much more bravery than I feel "yeah I understand really well....do YOU understand…..we are not back at shore yet."

I remind myself to breathe deeply. Where is the rescue remedy when I most need it?

I feel like I am in no win situation. I don’t want to tip them – the scumbags don’t deserve it. But I also feel that if I give them money and they think it’s insufficient they will make it difficult for me.

We make it back and they pull the boat up on a muddy bank. I see my lovely tuk tuk driver, the same one I’ve had my entire time in Siem Reap, and feel huge relief. He comes down and takes my bag and camera so now, unencumbered, I can easily leap off the bow of the boat.

Meantime the money I pulled out of my purse (in case I had no option but to tip) was still in the palm of my sweaty hand. I walk away, very quickly, grasping it and I feel much satisfaction that I've outwitted the young shites!!!

However, I was very cross and rather shaken. I told my driver and the people at the hotel. They said that I should have reported it to the water police out at the lake - but who would know! I was too shaken to do anything but feel relieved I had gotten away safely. It’s a shame because this behaviour does little for a region trying to grow tourism. I was happy to be back at my hotel and able to strip off all my clothes for washing and to take a shower to get rid of the nasty lingering smell.

Part II - Temples of Angkor

Before reading this, I recommend you read The Temples of Angkor Part I.

The air is smoky on the long straight road as I travel, sitting like a queen in the back of my tuk tuk heading towards Angkor and the temples. Even though it is before sunrise, the road is busy and the exhaust fumes give the cool morning air a blue tinge. Everyone is in a hurry, keen to get into a position they believe will give them the best sunrise view.

My first view of Angkor Wat was the day before and it was surreal. Yet, it held an air of familiarity, probably because of the numerous photographs I’d seen of this special place. What surprised me though wasn’t seeing Angkor Wat, it was the huge moat surrounding the outside wall and also the magnitude of the complex. Nothing, nothing nothing could have prepared me for that. It is truly a magnificent sight and even more so when I stop to consider the time of construction - between 1113 and 1150.

After a day or two of visiting the temples, I sit in the back of the tuk tuk and I am ticking the ruins off like old friends. By the time I leave, I’ve traversed the circuit many times now; Te Keo, the old bridge, the ruins of Chau Say Tevoda, through the magnificient old Victory Gate then the road is straight via an avenue of trees until my driver stops at the “T” junction. In front of me, the massive terrace of elephants wall greets me and it extends out to the left and right. We turn left here and if I crane my neck a little I can see the complex of Angkor Thom with Baphuon Temple peeking out behind the wall and then the weirdest temple of them all – Bayon.

The distance between Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat is several kilometers. But before I reach this Angkor Wat, I squeeze through the very narrow opening of the South gate, go past the giant heads (54 gods on one side and 54 demons on the other) guarding the temples. Finally in another kilometer I get my last view of the day - Angkor Wat and its protective moat before I head for my home base in Siem Reap.

Phew…..this is an impressive loop and one I enjoy each trip.

Sometimes when I visit the temples they are over – run with visitors. I went to Ta Prohm for a second visit but as there were too many people I left quickly surprising my waiting tuk tuk driver. It was difficult to move through the narrow corridors, and certainly no chance of getting the photos I wanted because there were too many people in the frame. Thankfully on an earlier visit there were fewer people and I got some great photos showing the power of the jungle as it takes over. Here (more so than any other temple) trees have literally grown on the stones and their roots entwined in the stones so that it looks as though they form part of the design. Of course they are not and these massive trees and roots are putting much pressure on the walls causing them to buckle and collapse.

High up, I see, clinging to one of the lateral branches, a huge bees nest just hanging in mid air like a huge upside down “U”. From this distance it looks like a beautiful work of art – so smooth and perfect in its form and function.


Occasionally, at the temples, I am the only person in a large area, room or hallway. When that happens, often I stop and sit on the age old stones and try, without the “noise” created by other people, to contemplate what it would have been like to have lived all these centuries ago. But I find this excessively difficult. Once I am sitting though, I see all sorts of details I missed when standing and these observations constantly surprises me.

My Lonely Planet Guide suggests that at lunch time, when the visitors on tour buses stop to eat, is a good time to get some quiet space. It’s true! I’m surprised it worked and I have a lovely time. But it is rather hot, wandering around Angkor Wat at this time of day. It is also rather eerie.

The magnificent and delicately carved Banteay Srei (a fascinating hour long ride through villages and the countryside from Siem Reap) is the most roped off temple I visited. Still, it’s possible to get up close and despite signs not to touch the detailed bas relief people still do.

Other temples too have restrictions – notably the bas relief walls of Angkor Wat. The other restrictions are where restoration work is being undertaken.

Some of the temple sites are in a very precarious state of ruin and yet they are still open for tourists to walk under partially collapsed doorways, crawl over piles of rocks or clamor up extremely steep stairways. Sometimes there are signs to say “don’t climb” a particular pile of rubble, but these are much less frequently placed than is justified.

There are no hand rails or barriers either and the drop off (onto stones) from some parts is several metres.

On my first visit to a site, I was amazed at the narrowness of the stairway treads. Frequently to get any kind of foothold, I have to turn my foot sideways to progress and even then my foot only just fit. The risers were perhaps 15 inches in height, so it is hard work trying to climb up. The stairways are the path to heaven. According to early beliefs, the transition between earth and heaven is not meant to be easy hence the steepness. It also creates an optical illusion that the temple is much higher than it is in reality. I surprised myself by climbing up many and the view was, at times, magnificent. Other times, I sat at the bottom and enjoyed young tourists racing to the top.

For today’s tourists, in some places they’ve constructed wooden stairways over the old stone steps, and they have even treads and have removed some of the steepness. Still they are steep.

These edifices were built as temples to the gods. The first temples were for Hindu gods. The latter ones built under Jayavarman VII were dedicated to Buddhism when he declared it to be the national religion. They are full of symbolism and the beautifully detailed carvings have left a graphic reminder of the beliefs during this period. Some also give an insight into the lifestyle. Bas relief detail show acrobats, people drawing water and playing chess, winning battles, losing life to name a few scenes.

The temples range from the comparatively basic and unadorned Ta Keo to the classically beautiful temple of Angkor Wat with 600 metres of bas relief and 2000 apsaras, particularly around the lower of its three levels. Then there is the stunningly beautiful and detailed in outlying Banteay Srei (36 kms from Siem Reap) to the out and out weird. I went to Banteay Srei twice, as much for the lovely ride in the countryside as to revisit the site. However, it is definitely worth a second visit as I saw different aspects of its magnificence.

The Bayon temple takes the prize for the weird. It’s a temple (part of the extensive Angkor Thom complex) built by the most prolific builder of all the kings – Jayavarman VII.

Bayon is a testament to his ego and absolute creative genius. This temple has 54 gothic towers displaying 216 smiling (rather coldly) faces of Avalokitesvara. This is the Mahayana Buddhist ideal of compassion, who chooses not to pass into Nirvana but help bring enlightenment to others. But these all seeing heads bear a resemblance to King Jayavarman! How’s that for ego? No matter where I turn many faces are looking down on me. It’s weird. This is one of the many temples that on first viewing looks just like a pile of old stones but once I had spent time there more and more of the detail unfolded.

Sometimes inscriptions were etched into the stones and these detail the number of people the temple supported, an inventory of staff and jewels held in the libraries.

Much detail has been lost though because many records were written on palm leaves and these have long since disintegrated.

Historians have been able to reconstruct the history with the assistance of an account left by a Chinese emissary – Chou Ta Kuan who spent a year at Angkor in the later 13th century. He notes that some of the spires were covered in gold. None of that remains today, but what a spectacle that would have made.

It is truly amazing but exhausting to visit these temples. I spent 5 days there and was able to visit all of the main temples. I also went to another small temple (Ta Nei) which required a walk of one and half kilometers to reach it. It was a treat to be there because aside from my driver I was the only person there – oh and a guard sleeping. There’s always a guard these days because there has been so much looting.

Actually with the projected growth for the area, I cannot imagine what it will be like to visit these wonderful ruins with double the number of visitors. Currently visitors to Cambodia number 2 million but receipts for the ruins around Siem Reap numbers 1.1 million (there is some suggestion in the media that these figures are understated!) Nor can I imagine that we will continue to be allowed almost unrestricted access to climb over, sit and touch these ancient ruins. However, I feel very fortunate that I have had some time here.

Photos: Apsara at Banteay Srei, Bees nest at Ta Prohm and impact of trees at Ta Prohm

Ancient Temples of Angkor Part One

The Ancient Temples of Angkor – Part One
The Kingdom of Cambodia

Nothing could have prepared me for how utterly stunned I would feel when I first see the magnificent temples of Angkor. The temples and the surrounding area offer surprises at every turn. I stare in wonder; in awe at the gargantuan structures, and the extensive building program to develop these. Once I am close, I admire their decoration.

What we are able to see today probably just represents a fraction of the edifices from a progressive early society that stretched from Burma to Vietnam and into Thailand.

To be honest my prior preparation for coming here was overshadowed by the massive effort in handing over my business and getting away from New Zealand and so I am playing catch up and did some more reading once in Siem Reap. For me to try to understand and appreciate the magnitude of these temples, and the unimaginable difficulty they faced in transporting the goods and then building them, I needed to understand a little more of the background; why were they built, how were they constructed and how did the people live during these early times?

The following is a summary and hopefully you will find this interesting and helpful for my next couple of articles about the temples.

In truth, there are many gaps in the knowledge of the scholars, but it has been possible to construct some idea of the times.

Although some kings moved the capital, for many centuries its home base was Angkor.
The temples were built to honour religion – mainly Hindu but later Buddhism. This was a culture steeped in mystical thoughts and beliefs. The ruling kings were said to be descendants of “divine lineages, one solar, one lunar and so the kings of the Khmer (Cambodians) became living gods and temples their divine inspiration” (Ortner).

These kings and the people of the kingdom were (and still are) very religious. Much of the early period was influenced by near neighbour India and early religious alliances were Hindu. Very early philosophical teachings – dharma which is the order of the universe encouraged the concept of moral obligations i.e. a duty in society and righteousness. Early teachings belong to the religion of the Vedas composed by a Brahman priest some period before or after 1000BC. Sacrifices were made by community leaders who won benefits. Top of the wish list – strong sons and cows!

Later priests became full time specialists and were patronized by the rulers. Later again the concept of karma came into being (around 8th century BC) – the moral law of cause and effect. This was accepted by the main religious groups.

At the time, and this particular period began in 802AD, it was thought that only stone could be used to honour the gods and people lived instead in wooden structures. Perhaps they were housed within inner walls of the temple grounds. Certainly the Royal Palaces were housed within the massive walls and probably other buildings too. None of these wooden structures have survived and little is known of how the ordinary people lived during this time.

The temples around Angkor (the close ones are approximately 7-8 kms from Siem Reap) were constructed by a variety of kings (ten in particular). The time that is now referred to as the Angkorian period spanned more than 600 years from AD 802 to 1432.

It was a bloody time. There were fights amongst families as usurpers killed to gain the power of the throne. But, it was also a time of much conflict amongst warring neighbours such as Myanmar, Thailand, and Vietnam as they sought to extend their borders or reclaim what they thought was theirs in the first place. Building activity in Angkor increased after battles were won and also when a new king took the throne indicating they were constructed in celebration or to announce their entitlement.

At the peak of the empire, the area housed over 1 million people. Compare that to London at the same time with a population of 50,000 shows this was truly a power in its own right. Thousands of villages and tens of thousands of individuals were needed to maintain one single temple and over the course of the Angkorian period a great many were built.

Another thing that amazes me is the foresight of the various Kings of the time, the knowledge, the tenacity and skill necessary to build then beautify the temples with carvings, each one trying to outdo his (there was only one Queen) successor. Many are decorated with apsaras (or celestial nymphs – one who dances for gods). There is also many kilometers of bas relief (shallow carvings done in relief) depicting scenes from the past and many mythical and real beasts.

It’s difficult to image the hardship the labourers must have endured to quarry and transport the massive stones from some 50 kilometres way to the temple location. Some of these stones are massive – i.e. one stone makes up the whole side of a door jam – and it’s thick.

The round holes drilled into the stones through which wet bamboo poles were inserted to help shift them are still visible today. It’s impressive to note that, prior to this extensive building program the Khmers had no history in working with stone.

It’s not clear how they moved the quarried stones to the building sites but it was probably by elephants and the sheer muscle force of the people of the time. There has been a suggestion they used rafts to float them down the waterways but that’s been trialed relatively recently and has been discredited.

When the Angkorian period began, the region was broken up into small kingdoms and it was the first of the kings of this period – Jayavarman II (r 802 – 50) who united the country. During some later reigns territory was lost, regions factionalised and then bought back together again. The area now known as Cambodia was considerably more extensive than it is today and during some periods of time in its history incorporated parts of Laos, Vietnam and Thailand.

There is no doubt that during this period Cambodia was a powerful force. It also seems from the limited records available that it was a very rich nation. Sanskrit inscriptions left in stone within the temple walls note the treasures housed; diamonds, pearls, gems, silks, gold and other precious objects. Much of this has been plundered and destroyed over the centuries. However, some treasures have been removed and are on display at the National Museum in Cambodia’s present capital Phnom Penh.

To undertake such massive construction meant the region had wealth and part of that richness can be attributed to access to good natural resources. Angkor is close to the huge Tonle Sap Lake which is the biggest and most productive fresh body of water in the world. This lake is fed by the Tonle Sap River which in turn is fed by the mighty Mekong. The Mekong’s source is in the Tibetan plain and it flows down through China, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia and into Vietnam. During the monsoon season (June-October) the Mekong overflows and this brings additional water and nutrient rich red silt down into the plains (Cambodia is very flat) to the home of the Khmer.

As the Mekong floods, so too does one of its main tributaries, the Tonle Sap River. During the monsoon the lake triples in size and during this time swells to encompass over one third of Cambodia’s land area (Ortner). One of the reasons Angkor was chosen as the capital was the lake, its capacity to feed a huge nation and the strategic importance of the body of water to protect the region and from which to launch pre-emptive strikes on neighbours and vice versa as it happens.

The Khmers appreciated these seasons; they understood astronomical cycles along with the impact of the natural forces of nature. They worshipped the gods who provided the plentiful bounty.

During this Angkorian period they harnessed this water flow by building massive reservoirs. The first was constructed by Indravarman (r 877-89) who built one measuring 6.5 sq km. Through the construction of these reservoirs or barays, dikes and canals they were able to extend the growing season which is very impressive; especially when one considers the time we are talking about.

The construction of Angkor Wat, the temple which has captured the most attention in the West, was begun during the reign of Suryavarman II (r1112-52). He was the seventh of the top ten kings. Although he reigned for several decades, all was not well in the Kingdom during his reign. It is thought that the barays (by this stage there were many) began to silt up and this slowed down food production. Deforestation and the pressure on the people of the land to build Angkor Wat helped to lead to the demise. Building the temples used the royal resources but it’s also thought that workers contributed and perhaps paid additional taxes too.

Under this pressure, the nation weakened and the people of southern Vietnam made a successful strike on Angkor. They burned the wooden city and pillaged it. But a later Khmer king struck back and reclaimed Angkor.

Jayavarman VII was the king who was able to again unify the country and under his leadership (r 1181 - 1219) the most extensive building program was undertaken. Aside from building many temples, he also developed civic programs such as hospitals, roads, bridges and schools right across the kingdom. Some bridges remain today.

The temples built during his reign include – Angkor Thom, Bayon (weird faces – see Part II), the atmospheric Ta Prohm and Preah Khan. Jayavarman VII was the last king of this great, great period in Cambodia’s history.

Many of the temples have massive walls around them and some have moats. Sometimes they have pools and one, Phimeanakas and the Royal Palace (near Bayon and Bauphon) has a pool measuring 125 m by 45 m. Here the king would sit to watch aquatic sports. It is a lovely shady spot and the water, although brown, looks a very tempting to me as a place to cool off as the sun reaches its zenith around midday.

Although the pool in the grounds of the Royal Palace pool is impressive the moat surrounding Angkor Wat is even more so. It is 190 metres wide and it forms a giant rectangle around the temple walls measuring 1.5 km by 1.3 km. It is a breathtaking sight. Today it still holds water whereas some others (during March, the time of my visit) were dry. This moat was rumored to house aggressive crocodiles during the king’s time.

It’s thought that the moat is one of the reasons this temple survived the times reasonably well because the water acted as a barrier to the jungle.

Sadly the jungle has caused much damage to many of the temples and Ta Prohm is one where it’s easy to see the effects of the creeping vines and strangle fig trees. Massive roots are insidiously entwined in the stones, and they almost look as though they are part of the construction. Although nature has caused many walls to crumble and buckle, it is atmospheric particularly when the sun lights up the light bark so that it glows and creates shadows across the nooks and crannies of the trees and stones.

After Jayavarman VII’s death in 1219 the Khmer empire lost its luster and went into decline.

Today visitors crawl all over the temples and their ruins. I spent a total of five days there, including sunset and sunrise viewings. I found the temperature acceptable at either end of the day, but after 1000 very hot and tiring. I kept my visits to about 5 or 6 hours. I recommend any visitor spend a minimum of three days dedicated to the temples, more if there is a strong interest in ruins, history or religion.

In preparing this summary, I referenced a couple of books; Lonely Planet “Cambodia”, Ortner’s “Celestial Temples of the Khmer Empire” and Freeman and Jacques “Ancient Angkor”) along with information gathered as I’ve cruised around many many sites in the area. For any visitor, I highly recommend each of the three and the latter two can be purchased by touts out at the temples.

Photos: A tourist climbs "the stairway to heaven".

Part of the bas relief at Bayon

Siem Reap Booms

Siem Reap is a booming town, but it presents a little like the wild-west towns of old. Instead of gun slingers waging battles and duels, the attack and stand-off positions are assumed by vehicles. The bigger the motor the more power is wielded and with a toot (or two or three depending upon the drivers intentions or urgency) the smaller motors or motor less scatter into the dusty berm.

In town there are pavements but very often café’s reach across the area covering it. Or, vehicles park right on the pavement leaving no option for a pedestrian; they must take their chances by walking on the road. I notice that I’ve developed a kind of arrogance that I have just as much right to be on the road as the 2 and 4 wheeled variety.

But it’s tricky as I have little idea of the road rules. It is right hand drive here. But it seems that when you turn a corner, (say turning left the vehicle moves from the right-hand side over to the left to turn) you can continue driving on the opposite side until its safe to go back to the correct side. As a consequence, I am so very careful to check, double check, triple check before putting my tootsies onto the street. Night travel – headlights it seems are optional! Of course many of the streets, including where my hotel is located, are dirt and wide enough for one vehicle but its not one way, so can you imagine big tourist buses, along with tuk tuks, bikes, scooter and people all vying for space.

Siem Reap has a flourishing café scene serving all types of cuisine – western, Cambodian Khmer (I haven’t yet established the difference but the latter proudly proclaim their pedigree), Thai, French etc. For a time (1864) the French took over and so there’s a noticeable French influence in the food and in the beautiful atmospheric old buildings. I can eat a delicious and nutritious meal for about $2 or $3 but add another $2 for a beer or a freshly squeezed juice in many places.

I’m writing the draft for this item whilst sitting at an outside table at the Blue Pumpkin Café. They make the most divine flakey croissants, breads, cakes and other pastries. It’s a popular spot. Generally, they really try hard when it comes to service and are most pleasant but are frequently very slow and inattentive. If the bar, cafe or shop has a TV going I am sure you could dance on the table top and the waiting staff wouldn't notice! But, hey, all of this tourism stuff is relatively new.

The country has just celebrated 2 million visitors for the 2007 year which is up 20% on 2006. South Koreans lead the charge with 16.4%, then Japanese 8%, USA 6.8%. The 2010 estimate is 3.35 million. The tourism sector contributes 15.8% of total employment.

They mention “flash packers” (I like that term) – of which I am one! Those tourists taking a career break or extended time out but want some comfort and at $15 a night (this is mid range) for my hotel I’m getting that comfort. This might be a third world country but the accommodation is very nice and what’s more I have a choice of 69 television channels in my room. Channel surfers eat your heart out!

The local newspaper reports concern about money not being absorbed locally and they mention the Korean and Japanese visitors as a particular concern because they do their purchasing at souvenir shops owned by their countrymen. They also patronize their own restaurants and hotels. Gosh, I say, why bother traveling if you are going to do that. But we have the same situation with various national groups in NZ don’t we?

In fact two days before I picked up the local newspaper with these statistics I had first hand knowledge of this.

I was visiting a temple and stopped to buy a cold drink. The temple vendors (aged between 8 and 20) invited me to sit with them and for a short time they stopped their sales pitch and also rested a moment or two and we chatted. It was a lovely moment. They lamented the fact that these two national groups never bought from them. They rely upon this income so it’s a big problem. I wonder if these rather wealthy groups appreciate the impact of their purchasing decisions where it can mean the difference between these kids and/or their families eating that day or not? According to Lonely Planet just 10% of the ticket price goes back to the restoration of the temples. Of the balance 75% goes to the government and 15% goes to the petroleum company Sokimex who control the administration and access to the temples. But that’s a separate and very complex issue.

The currency is also very interesting. The official currency is the United States Dollar. But, they also have the riel (KHR). When I arrived I changed $100 into KHR and in exchange received brand new notes piled about ½ inch high!

There are no coins here so if say, I buy a slice of yummy coconut cake, that costs 75c, I hand over USD1 and get back 1000KHR in change. At the end of the day I need to sort my wallet and separate the two currencies again. Everything is so so cheap that I still haven’t used up the money I changed at the airport 7 days ago – plus the fact that given the choice everyone wants USD.

The sharp vendors out at the temples try to use currency for their gain and, I suspect, take advantage of visitor confusion. I chose a bag and after some bargaining we agreed on a price of $7. I elect not to bargain too hard because these are very poor people but the “sport” of haggling is a must, its fun and it is definitely expected. After agreeing the price for the bag, my vendor then asks me to pay in baht (Thai currency). “How much will that be?” I ask without any intention of paying in baht anyway as I have it safely tucked away in my money belt and I’m not about to dip into it here.

She replies very quickly, a price in baht which I mentally convert and it’s $21! “No way – that’s far too high a price” I say. She laughs too and tries again. “Ok,ok, you pay me in KHR and again names an amount that converts again much closer to $20.

“I think I’ll pay you in USD” I say. She’s happy, has had some sport for the day, received a good price and I’m very happy with my purchase.


I’m enjoying……the flexibility of having no fixed itinerary and the wonderful people.

I’m reading……. the local newspapers and Celestial Temples of the Khmer Empire.

I’m missing…..steak and salad and coffee…coffee….coffee…… The coffee here is well…pretty yukky actually. I’m disappointed – of course.

I’m surprised…..that I’m not missing my evening glass of red wine – actually I haven’t even thought about it. I’m also surprised at how easy it is to travel here. English is very widely spoken and in most places around here very well.

I’m loving…..living the dream – my dream – also of visiting Angkor Wat and the other temples. I really like it here and have just extended my time.

Next .......I’ll try to put an article about the amazingly beautiful and extensive temples. I need to let a little time pass so that I can try to absorb what I’ve seen and come to grips with it so that I can write coherently about it. They are truly wonderful and it’s been/is quite a moving and spiritual experience. I didn’t expect that at all.

Hua Hin Delivers on the Coffee

Finally Hua Hin delivers and I’ve found coffee worth a mention. Hooray!

I chanced upon a café on my first morning in Hua Hin and I found it in the unlikely named Darjeeling (of the tea variety) Unlimited.

The black coffee was espressed with care by the owner Alinnada Chaiyo. The coffee is rich, strong and with a thick crema. This is served in a cup with a handle that curves uniquely into the cup and then it is placed on a cute curved saucer – in immaculately clean white china. (see the photo) The coffee is grown in Chiang Mai and is 100% Arabica bean.

Darjeeling Unlimited has just a four tables and they concentrate on tea and coffee. By the way, Alinnada also makes an excellent pot of tea (this is her first love) which she serves in a large pretty teapot. A new business, the owner also imports and exports. Some of the goods are shown in the café and a range of jewelry, bags and other gifts are available for sale. The other photo is of Alinnada.

Then, just up the road is a café that looks rather like Starbucks. But that’s where the comparisons end. At Coffee World they serve superb coffee in large cups and their food would look at home in a Parisian café and tastes just as good.

Both Darjeeling Unlimited and Coffee World have fast internet access on great new computers (a bonus for a traveler) – the former is free to customers.

Monkey Hill - Hua Hin Thailand

Monkey Hill

Note to self: before charging off to some place noted on the map – first establish whether the map is to scale!

It didn’t look far. An early morning walk along the beach of about one hour, turn right at the Hyatt Hotel, take the next right and in a short time I’d be at my desired destination Khao Krailas Hill (the aptly named Monkey Hill). This is the home of numerous statue and Buddha.

After walking for a time and feeling I’d gone further than I should have, (had the map been to scale!) I stopped to ask directions. “Oh you haven’t got far to go” said the man pointing far, far into the distance. “Only about another one kilometer” he added cheerfully.

To be honest it looked much further than I wanted to be walking and the sun was getting higher in the sky. I was hot so I ducked up a road and waiting right there (aren’t they always) was a trusty tuk tuk driver. After some good natured banter, we agreed on $10 for him to take me there, wait about one hour while I wandered around the site, and then he would take me back into town.

Just as well I used a tuk tuk because we were motoring for quite some time before reaching my destination. I also noticed that none of the signs were in English so there is no doubt that I would not have reached the wat without local knowledge.

However, after arriving at the site, I very nearly changed my mind about visiting it. The first hesitation was when I saw the steps (almost reaching up to the sky) I had to climb to get there. The second time was not related to such “wimpish” behaviour.

As I neared the top of the steps, shoulders and arms covered like a respectful tourist (shamefully I forgot about the open toed shoes though), I was stopped in my tracks by about six rabid looking dogs barking furiously, their sharp fangs baying for food, or revenge - who would know. I’m scared of dogs at the best of times so I was paralysed quite literally “on the spot” quite unsure what to do. I was sure that if I turned and ran down (or even calmly walked - but how to be calm under so much pressure!) the couple of hundred steps I had just grunted up they might begin to chase me. But aside from that – I felt that there was NO WAY I was going to get past these monsters safely.

As I wavered in my decision making I heard a young woman call “good morning ma-dam” and then an open faced craggy old lady appeared. She was dressed very simply in white draped around her old body toga style and carried a long bamboo stick. She was my salvation! With this stick she hit the ground and spoke very softly to the dogs until they are silenced; she moved them away from me and with gesture invited me to visit the wat.

I’m so glad I persevered. Many of the buildings and statues have been carved out of the side of the massive rocks that make up this hill. There is a beautiful carved and gold trimmed wat, multi coloured frangipani trees in full bloom cast their lovely soft scent around the hill, a monk dressed in his orange robe makes a scratching sound as he rakes the crisp leaves into a pile. It feels so spiritual here. I feel lucky to be here and am enveloped by a feeling of calmness. I want to know more but this is not a tourist enterprise – in fact I am the only outsider here. It’s also an ideal place to go for great views of Hua Hin.

I am rather sure I misunderstood the intentions of the craggy old lady when she invited me to buy food or incense. “I’ve been conned before”, I thought as I declined to buy what I am now sure was intended as an offering to Buddha. She didn’t appear to mind, but who would know.

Clearly this area is in need of funds as it looks past its best. I am delighted it is open to be shared with those few of us who take the time to stop by a while and have some reflection time. Upon leaving I put some money in the box – more than I would have had I paid for an offering and hope that made up, just a little, for my earlier crassness.

Although I didn’t see any monkeys I am so glad I didn’t bail out when there were some obstacles in my path.

Buzzy Hua Hin

Hello from buzzy Hua Hin which is about a 4/5 hour train trip south–west of Bangkok but still on the Gulf of Thailand. This town, population, about 49,000 is like a big Surfers Paradise without the massive number of high rise condos and hotels and not as “sanitized”.

The beach here is superb with mile after mile of gorgeous white sand. But, unlike the other two seaside spots I’ve visited, Chaweng and Choeng Mon, the beach area is much wider and it’s not as busy. Trade here must be good too, because, aside from numerous tailors shops (say one every 30 metres!) they don’t hustle for business. Now I am tempted to stop and browse in the shops and stalls, or even flick through the tour office brochures without being hounded. It’s refreshing after Samui where the vendors antennae are tuned to perfection – a glance at their wares from 100 metres distance will result an approach.

I like Hua Hin. Because it’s so close to Bangkok, I expected the beaches to be much busier than Samui but although there are masses of tourists here, there is room to spread out on the beach. Beach access is a problem though. The beach frontage has been taken over by various tourist enterprises and hotels so to reach the sand, its necessary to go down one of the streets and there aren’t that many of them.

On my first mornings walk I stopped to take a photo of a huge jelly fish – about the size of one of those cheap wee outdoor café style tables - about 80cm across. I thought I’d stumbled across a rare thing and got chatting to an American couple who confirmed that they would leave a nasty sting if you met one while out for a swim. I realized very quickly that they are plentiful and I began to be VERY careful about where I put my feet as I strolled along in the shallows getting my pretty pink toe nails wet.

On my way back to the hotel, I met up with a German couple I had chatted with on the train coming down from Bangkok. Just after arriving in Hua Hin he took his 5 year old down for a swim to cool off. He was stung by a jelly fish and he confirmed what the Americans had said; it was extremely painful. Luckily for him there was someone on the beach able to administer remedial first aid. He was taken to the local hospital for an injection and a supply of tablets. The rash was extensive; it probably covered about half his forearm and looked very red and sore.

Little did I know that not 24 hours later I’d be making a visit to that same hospital (they take urgent and non-urgent cases). Thankfully my reason for visiting was the latter.

I’ve decided its not much fun being away, and by yourself, when you get sick.

Firstly, and the reason for my visit to the hospital was that I had developed an allergic reaction to something unknown. The itching was driving me crazy and I’d become extremely lethargic, which I had put down, erroneously, to the heat. The body was definitely on a “go slow”. Then I developed a nasty bout of traveler’s diarrhoea. Yikes!! That laid me rather low, and feeling rather sorry for myself, for 72 hours or so.

Back to my hospital visit. After being greeted and the forms filled to identify myself and next of kin etc, I was told to wait on comfy chairs. Soon I’m called by a nurse, weighed (still too heavy – but dropping), blood pressure taken (excellent), and temperature taken (normal). I’m then escorted to a Doctors room for the consultation. He prescribes some medication. I’m told to go back to the waiting area whilst he completes the prescription. I am then escorted to the cashier to pay the bill, and then to the pharmacy where the ointment and tablets are ready for me and an explanation is given to me. All of this is done without an appointment, takes about one hour, costs me about $43 and is done in perfect English. I was very very impressed.

So between these two conditions, I’ve seen very little of Hua Hin which is a shame because there are a couple of places nearby I wanted to visit like Cha-am beach. I’d also wanted to visit a couple of National Parks, particularly Kaeng Krachan which is the largest park in Thailand – you can see elephants in the wild and it’s the home to about 300 bird species but that will all have to wait for another time because I have a date in Cambodia. I have found two absolutely fabulous coffee places here though and that was a treat for me to savor for the first two days.

What I’m missing…..my own bed and couch …..well I have been unwell!

What I’m enjoying…..the thought that weight just must be dropping off since I’ve eaten very little food over the past several days.

What I’m looking forward to…….feeling great again and exploring the temples of Angkor Wat.