The Plan Continues - Sydney

The Plan Continues – Sydney

I’ve been here in Sydney for about six weeks now and loving it. Of course living in Bondi is such a cliché for a kiwi but it’s fantastic for me as I am a few minutes away from the massive Westfield shopping centre, quick access to beaches (Bronte and Bondi) and a short bus ride to work. The city is just ten minutes away by train.

I hear a little talk of a recession and tough times but on the weekend the Mall is jam packed with people. Just before opening time at 10am people are standing around waiting to get in. The people buying at Harvey Norman’s or Dick Smith’s don’t seem to think there is a problem – and the stores are always full.

I’m enjoying my job at the University too. I’m writing and getting paid for it! It’s extremely interesting work too. Of course me being me, I completely altered the content, look and feel of their policies so it was a nail biting time while I waited to see their reaction to the first few. Thankfully they really like my approach. Even so, I must say that after nine months of such delicious freedom it has been rather challenging for me to work an eight hour day.

That said, I really don’t think I could have written a better script for myself! Oh…perhaps if I was able to report that I was sailing regularly in these beautiful waters around here that would be an even better outcome. That remains elusive so it’s obviously not my time to be out on the water.

What is definitely panning out for me though is leaving a regular job to replace it with something much more elastic and tenuous. I like the “possibility” that comes with this type of life. Even though I was extremely scared at the time, I am so glad I took this punt and that it is working out for me right now.

I’ve had many visitors too and it’s been great to spend some time with them in this vibrant city.

Last weekend Suzanne was over and so we took a ferry trip. She owns a leather handbag manufacturing company and is starting a blog about a wandering bag so I helped out by holding it up in odd places to capture some photos for her to use. The people around us thought we were crazy but we had fun.

I loved the bag so much that I bought it off her and now it will have different adventures! It’s one of those perfect bags with special spaces for everything I need. Once, after deciding I was carrying around too much "stuff", I bought a small handbag. The theory being I would just ration what I carried around with me. It didn't work for me! I frequently had to leave the zip open or carry important things in my hand. I was so relieved once I realised my "small handbag experience" wasn't working and I could be true to myself with a larger version. My new bag is large and it kinda reminds me of my old schoolbag - except this is a beautiful and very pleasing colour - one that will complement most of my clothes. Here’s Suzanne's website featuring some other bags - www.konev.co.nz.

My plan is to work here until March or April next year then pick up where I left off and travel to Eastern Europe for a few months and then repeat the work/travel cycle. I am keen to continue doing this for as long as I can as I have many more places I want to explore. It’s a beaut existence.

I’m loving…..Living the dream. It’s wonderful that I have been able to arrive in a country and have my skills highly valued, and so very quickly.

I’m reading…...Lonely Planet Eastern Europe book to research the next travel segment.

Taste sensation……Yummmmm….where do I start? Raisin toast, cherry tarts, eating divine cherries and strawberries (in September!); anything from the roast nut stands. Add to this list Greek style fetta and yoghurt and Portuguese tarts (custard nestled in a light crispy filo style pastry). Of course all of the “bad” things are taken in moderation!

Good restaurant…..The Bondi Social Club – very well presented tapas style food. If you get a terrace table the view over the beach is excellent. The toilets are not recommended though!

Best Coffee……A little erratic but coffee from one of the Uni’s cafes is pretty good. The coffees quite good just down the road from me at the Curious Cat – yes complete with a cat that pays rent for the best and sunniest spot.

I’m missing……the Friday afternoon drinks and nibbles after work. Hey…here we even get to buy our own supplies of tea and coffee so as you can imagine I will NEVER be offered a glass of wine to finish up a week. Besides…I think it’s probably not allowed……I must check (or write) a policy!
Speaking of wine I am also missing not being able to buy it at the supermarket. Buying it at a bottle shop almost feels like a criminal activity.

In the newspapers…..heaps on politics. When Sarah Palin was announced as McCain’s running mate there was page after page after page on them. There’s been lots of upheaval here in state and federal politics and so that dominates at the moment.

I’m disappointed…….(extremely) to see that even when the Australian netball team won against NZ that they rated a few centimeters in the papers. When there was some big jock sports awards the wife’s/partners of the jocks got huge coverage – for their dresses, legs and cleavage!

I’m extremely excited….to be going to Melbourne in a couple of weeks time to see a NZ/Australia netball match. Bring it on!!!

Don't Blink or You Won't Keep Up!

Phew!!! I'm back on the road and in Sydney, Australia and what a week I've just had.

I have a J.O.B.! Within three days of being here I was offered and accepted a position at the prestigous University of New South Wales. I will be using my interviewing, training and writing skills as a Policy Writer. I begin tomorrow.

Frankly, I was amazed to find work so easily (and it may have been a fluke that this position was available just when I was ready), because although my qualifications and experience are excellent, it is a general background. I thought this lack of specialisation would count against me. Not so. The hardest question they asked me was "give me a couple of titles of positions you would like". "Gosh...I don't know" I would say...."I can do this or this or this but to give them titles is not possible". Without fail they accepted that and went into bat for me. Anyway...I now have this six month contract and am looking forward to the challenge of doing something new. I thrive on this change.

I thoroughly enjoyed the Balmain area but had to move because of the difficulty in getting to and from the University. It's an eclectic mix of cafes, boutique shops and services housed in picturesque old buildings. It flows down to the water. Some other time I'd like to stay awhile there.

Instead, I've taken a lease on a place in Bondi Junction. Its incredibly central and reasonably close to the University. But....the downside of having a base for the next six months is I'm nesting. Horrors! I've even purchased cushions! So....just after divesting myself of all possessions unable to be squeezed into a suitcase, I'm buying again. Top of the list was beautiful sheets and a colorful duvet cover.

I'm loving.......being back on the road again. But....travelling and simply observing is very different to travelling and working.

I'm missing.....Olympic coverage with a NZ bias. Here its Australia, Australia and more Australia. Not that I think that's unreasonable due to the size of their team but something about other countries would be nice.

Best coffee......A few places in Balmain. The Bakehouse Cafe (the name belies a quasi sophisticated place) with great food and excellent coffee. Down the road Bertoni always had a queue so before I left went there and I cannot understand the fuss. Very average coffee.

I'm surprised.....absolutely gob smacked actually at how quickly I've scored a good job and accommodation. I must have several angels looking after me.

The papers and the media here are.....full of the Olympics and the Sonny Bill Williams episode.

Next I'll let you know how I cope with being a working woman after eight months of leisure.

Hanoi Scam Alert

Scam Alert


I did a very brave thing this morning. Or, perhaps, it was a very stupid thing as my actions had me quaking after several minutes.

But first, a little background. Yesterday I took a metered taxi, (which is the recommended way to travel to avoid rip-offs), from the Old Quarter in Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. I know this area reasonably well now and he seemed to take a fairly direct route. However, when we stopped and he told me the cost of the trip it was considerably higher than I thought it should have been. Nonetheless I shelled out the money. He demanded a tip out of the change too.

Once I left the cab, I realized that I had been ripped off! In fact I’d paid 6 times what I should have and I couldn’t blame anyone but myself for not recognizing the scam and challenging the scumbag. I was so cross with myself.

Then, this morning I was sitting in Gloria Jean’s (the best place I’ve found around here for coffee) and I looked through the window to see the likely lad.

I quickly gathered my things and went outside and confronted him. What was I thinking?

I told him he’d taken me for a ride (figuratively and literally) the previous day and he had ripped me off. I asked him for my money back. Of course, he suddenly had difficulty understanding English when the previous day his command had been excellent. He refused to refund me saying that he had no money. I didn’t expect to see the money anyway, I just wanted to make a point.

I demanded to see his taxi card and his drivers license. He refused. Meantime, many people gathered around us to see what the fracas was all about. I stood my ground and kept asking to see his documents. When he shook his head, I said “OK, I just wait here” and I folded my arms across my chest and stood my ground. I was hoping the police would come by.

After awhile in this stand off position, he wandered down the road. I don’t know what I planned, but I followed him, my legs still shaking. He leaned into the car window of one of his taxi driver mates and got into the passenger seat and he was driven off.

However, before he disappeared I got a reasonably good photo of him. I also snapped the sign written car and the number plate of the taxi he was in. I tried calling this number but no luck – they didn’t understand English. I also tried to enlist the people in reception at my hotel but they wouldn’t help.

However, I have registered my complaint with the Vietnam Tourist Authority and they have his photo and that of the signwritten car.

That’s about as much as I can do. I feel vindicated by taking this action. Hopefully they will take some action and use this photo to rid him from the tourist industry. Cities like Hanoi generating massive revenue from tourism don’t need this type of scam.

I share my story with other travelers and with you to be alert when traveling by taxi in this city. Every person I talk to has a taxi scam tale to tell including meters suddenly leaping in number of kilometers traveled, agreed fares increasing markedly etc. It’s not good.

What a Way to Have a Face Peel

What A Way to Have a Face Peel…..

After tripping and falling, my face looked like I’d gone 15 rounds with Mike Tyson.

I saw a great many doctors in five different hospitals – four in Vietnam and one in New Zealand. After receiving a couple of rather gloomy predictions (saying I’d need plastic surgery in two/three places on my face) meant I wasn’t all that optimistic of making such a great recovery. But I have! In fact, in the last week friends have said “what’s all the fuss been about?”

Sure I still have a couple of scars but I think that my healing is nothing short of miraculous. Most of my face had abrasions - what a way to have a face peel! Although there is still some question about whether I’ll need surgery on my nose, a decision on that will be made later.

I was flown home (thank goodness for excellent insurance cover) for check-ups and that has been good. I’ve been able to heal and relax at home which has been all good and I am now very well rested.

Back in Hoi An I was surrounded by caring people – locals and a NZ nurse followed the bikes to the hospital and were there to help and comfort me. The chap from reception at the hotel also came to the hospital and wouldn’t leave my side. They were all simply wonderful.

Getting to the hospital was a mini adventure in itself. I was knocked unconscious during the fall but when I came to I remember being put on the back of a motor bike. When I realized they had a second bike lined up beside me I rapidly regained my focus (sure!). They had one bike for my bottom and one for my feet. When I realised the plan to take me on two bikes I shouted at them (they didn't deserve that and I hope they forgive my reaction)! Then I blacked out again and the next thing I remember was being sandwiched between to chaps on the back of ONE bike. I think I fainted again because when I became conscious I was in a hospital bed. I have no idea who those men were but I am so very grateful to them and to the other locals who rallied around me. Of course there is much more to tell but I don’t want to bore you with it all.

My adventure is not over. In fact I am even more keen to get back on the road than I was before (if that’s possible). At this stage I am not sure where or when I’ll go. Meantime I’ve gone from temperatures in the high 30’s to, at times, single digits back here. But with these cooler temperatures I’m loving the freshness in the air.

The snow on the Mt Ruapehu, south of Taupo, where I’m based right now, looks absolutely sublime and it will be a bumper ski season for both the north and south islands. Great for skiers and boarders. Check it out on http://www.snowreport.co.nz. .


I’m surprised…..at how exhausted I really was after my trials and I began to relax at home. I’m also surprised at how much damage a wee trip can do. It really was a good decision to come back for awhile.

Food sensation……there’s a lot of competition for this spot actually but the overall winner would have to be beetroot – eaten in sandwiches, with salads…in fact just about everything…..whole, sliced, grated……Yum.

Best coffee….where do I start? These are all fantastic. At Tauranga and the Mount – Gana, Deck Chair, SideWalk and Mediterrano. In Rotorua – Capers. In Taupo Body Fuel is my favourite and I grace that café with my presence everyday. Fantastic.

I’m loving…..being around family and friends. I’m also loving being able to walk down the street unimpeded by stuff all over the foot path and being able to cross the road easily. Oh…and I’m loving driving again. After several months of being a passenger it’s great to be behind the wheel again.

Best sight……Flying into Auckland. As usual the countryside looked so green and being bounded by a couple of harbours it was fantastic to look down on the water.

I’m excited……that a parcel I posted home from Laos arrived safely yesterday. It was so exciting to be here to unwrap it and distribute the gifts myself. I’d forgotten what I’d packed in the box so it was all a big surprise!

Questions I’m most asked…….What was the best place you visited? Actually I change my mind about that – it could be Luang Prabang, Sapa, Halong Bay, Ninh Binh or Siem Reap – but not necessarily in that order. What did you miss most? Again difficult – food would be beetroot and cheese, other things – ease of communication in English.

I’m reading…..more Lonely Planet guides…..

Photos..... Auckland from the top of Rangitoto, a koru (the koru unfurl to become ponga fronds) and Tawharanui - a fabulous reserve (and one of my favourite places) north of Auckland.

Patchwork Face

Patchwork Face

I was in Hoi An and after a couple of lovely days in this fabulous town of tailors (which I made excellent use of too), I tripped and fell. I have multiple facial abrasions, black eye, stitches in a few places and a broken nose.
For a variety of reasons it was decided I should be sent via air ambulance from Hoi An to Saigon - or Ho Chi Minh City for further treatment and a cat scan. It was all very dramatic. Thankfully the scans shown no skull fracture.
I am spending the majority of my time in a hotel close to the very good clinic where I need to go each day for dressings and to be checked.
I'm doing OK. My wounds are healing well and although I am still extremely tired, swollen and must rest, my spirits are excellent.
I have many articles I'd written days (or should that be weeks ago) ready for a little further polish before adding them to my website and depending upon the energy levels I may be able to put them on. They are starting to mount up actually - Stunning Halong Bay, Surprising Ninh Binh, Hue - which would have to be the hassle capital of Vietnam and of course laid back Hoi An where I've left behind clothes at a couple of tailors.
I am very disappointed that my time there was shortened as I planned to stay there for several more days. And I missed seeing the ancient ruins of the Kingdom of Champa - My Son which is very disappointing.

As the articles are nearly ready, I might find the energy to post some......maybe......Keep looking.

Photo: the plane I was taken on from Danang to Saigon (Just two crew, two medical staff and me strapped in a stretcher (and hooked up to oxygen) on the floor!

More Photos From Bac Ha

This was such an amazing market I decided to add a few more photos. Hope you like them.

1. Worker in cornfield

2. Buying wool

3. The yolks and tops waiting for buyers.

Going Back in Time - The Bac Ha Markets

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A Trip Back in Time – the Bac Ha Market
North West Vietnam



The three hour mini bus trip from Sapa to the Bac Ha markets was full of drama. We experienced an impasse between a truck and our vehicle on a one way bridge; later our driver called the police to sort out a problem. These and other such challenges are not unusual on these busy narrow roads in northern Vietnam. Sometimes the muddy roads had deep pot holes forcing our driver to find another way to pass or risk getting stuck. As in many of my journeys, the road was windy, narrow, there were perilously steep drops to the valleys way below us. There were no barriers to protect a wayward vehicle and its passengers which added to the drama.

Horns are used a lot in Vietnam and our driver pressed his so frequently you would think he was paid on a per use basis. But this horn wasn’t the kind to press for a sharp one off “parp” sound to alert someone or something. Our horn went on and on for several seconds playing an annoying little tune. After awhile, we could almost predict when he would use the noise machine; to chase pedestrians, goats, water buffalo, chickens, pigs, push bikes, horse and carts or motor cyclists out of the way. It was also frequently used as we approached a blind corner. As a mini bus, we seemed to command greater rights to the roads over almost anything else – except of course a bigger bus. I often wondered how the Vietnamese in these rural villages feel about the “flash” tourists screaming through their villages ordering them, with noise, to get out of our way. It doesn’t rest easily with me.

Part way through our journey we reach a one lane bridge which was controlled by lights. When the lights turned green it was our turn to cross and we edged forward but when we were about two thirds of the way across we were forced to a standstill by a truck coming the opposite way. The truck driver tried to force his way through. Duh! There was no way through and so for many minutes there was an impasse as each driver shouted and waved frantically at the other to back up. It was so funny to watch. After some time, our driver began to reverse but because we had the right of way there were many vehicles backed up behind us all waiting for a solution. After several minutes the bridge guard wandered down and ordered the truck driver to back up. However, even that wasn’t easy. I couldn’t watch as I swear this was the first time he had backed his truck as in his retreat he wove left then right rather haphazardly and even scraped the side of the grey bridge. I reckon he was either a novice driver or he’d been consuming too much of the highland tribes moonshine.

About three hours after leaving Sapa we arrived at Bac Ha and the markets. What a bright busy, bustling sight!

The women here dress in traditional native clothing and this is not just for show day as they wear this gear when working in the fields. Their headgear too is magnificent.

The most visible in and around the market because of their colourful dress are the Flower H’mong, so named because their clothing looks like a flower. Even the long sleeves on their tops are boldly hand embroidered. Around the neck they wear a wide yolk which too is intricately patterned in many hues. Sometimes the yolks, which are about 40cm in width, have extra trimmings added to the edge or additional baubles. Their widely gathered, full circle skirts, again multi coloured are embroidered with floral motifs and they swish as they walk. They are a wonder to see. Despite the thick pervading mud underfoot I noticed that they are able to keep the bottom clean and dry which is more than I managed, even though I rolled up my trousers.

Being there is like taking a huge leap back in time. This is a market for the locals but it has evolved some (but not a lot) to cater for the tourists. However locals still outnumber tourists and many of the stalls exist specifically for them. This is a rural economy and so there are hoe heads for sale, water buffalo, cows, dogs, small horses along with food supplies and much more.

My eyes swivel this way that trying to imprint the images on my mind. This was sensory overload of the kind I have rarely experienced! After awhile I calmed down because no matter where I looked there was a feast of richly coloured and varied sights to take in. The dress, noise, tantalizing aromas of food being cooked, locals weighing up purchasing decisions for the weeks ahead, watching the process of them bargaining and then loading up their horses or wagons for the trip back home are all alluring sights, sounds and smells.

There are many piles of tobacco for sale in differing shades of brown and tan. Adjacent to these mounds rest large bamboo pipes which are stained charcoal through much use. They are about a metre long and prospective buyers squat or sit in front of the tobacco to try before they buy.

The main form of transportation here is foot, horse, and horse and cart. I saw many horses laden ready for the sometimes long trip back home. Sometimes these hill tribe ethnic minorities walk for days to get here.

Apparently moonshine is available at this market. The locals have a reputation for the manufacture and supply of alcoholic home brews which they make from rice, cassava and corn. There’s an entire area set aside for the sale but I didn’t come across it. Later I heard that often, on the trip back home, the local women walk ahead leading a horse with their husband slumped sideways over the beast!

It was noisy too as neighbours catch up with the local gossip. Courtships were developing too between teenagers creating its own buzz and tension. Excited youngsters proudly wearing their finery raced around excitedly in twos, or groups of three or more to get the mountain equivalent of a McDonald’s treat – a raw cucumber, a stick of sugar cane or a home made ice-cream.

Although serious business is conducted here, there are also products available for tourists. Numerous tables display scarves, hats, bags, hand worked strips of cloth in varying widths (which they use as trim or decoration), wool, intricate linen table wear, silver jewelry and a variety of other souvenirs.

I added a few more scarves to my already huge collection and then I bargained for a bag to put it all in. It cost me $3 and is intricately patterned by machine. Mind you, the zip failed before I left the market but I don’t mind because I plan to turn into a cushion cover when I reach the tailoring capital of Vietnam, Hoi An later in my trip through Vietnam.

After time in this stunning market we were taken back to Lao Cai and dropped at a hotel/restaurant to dine to wait for the train back to Hanoi. But before that we have yet another altercation.

On a high narrow hill pass, we were forced to stop for some road works when a scooter driver tried to squeeze past but in doing so he scraped the side of our bus. Our driver was angry when the scooter driver refused to stop. In fact, as he made his escape, he drove right under the arm of a moving road working vehicle. Our driver got out and began to run after him shouting at the other stationary vehicles drivers to help him to stop the escapee. No luck, he’s off.

However, we were given rights to jump the waiting queue and our driver traveled far too fast down the steep road but the offender was on a nimble machine and he’s out of sight. Meanwhile cell phones became red hot as numerous calls were made, including some by our driver as he juggled the phone with negotiating the difficult terrain!

After about half an hour we saw several dozen Vietnamese gathered at a T junction and to my surprise they had apprehended the young offender. Our driver got out and arguments ensued, a few punches thrown – one from our driver - and there was much gesturing. We were told that the police had been called and there’ll be a wait which does not please us at all.

We waited and waited and waited. Finally, everyone was ordered back into the van and we drove off at speed unaware of any solution having been reached and we certainly hadn’t seen the police. We proceed several kilometers further, then slowed down at a small garage. The driver opened the window and threw out the offending drivers keys which he’d obviously confiscated. Retribution Vietnamese style! Honour had been restored.

When we waiting at the T junction I took the opportunity to stretch my legs and inspect the damage. A polish would have fixed it!

Thankfully there were no more dramas on the rest of the trip and we got back to Lao Cai with hours still to wait for the train.

I was amazed to find that I could get a shower in Lao Cai for $1. In the privacy of the room, I repacked my already overloaded back pack (I also bought several things in Sapa) and waited for the long, long trip back to Hanoi. This time I didn’t have such a convivial time with my bedfellows. I shared the cabin with an overly chatty Dutchman (who had also visited NZ and reminisces but this time I am too darned tired to feel homesick) and a Vietnamese couple with whom we have just nodding acquaintance.

However, it’s been an extremely long day and I am ready for sleep which comes fitfully.

I notice that I had written in my diary that “I am blissfully happy after my day visiting yet another ethnic minority. This has been another highlight of my trip.” They are beginning to mount up now and I would be hard pressed to limit it to ten. However this day at the Bac Ha markets would be very near the top if not come in at first place.

I’ve decided to spend two more nights in Hanoi at the same hotel and then go up to Halong Bay which is on the coast in the north east. This time it will be an organized trip and I’ll let you know how it goes next time so keep on checking……